Quill Extender + battery position

[Old Timer]

The angle of my back on the Aurora was just slightly forward at the point where my worn disk doesn`t like( although the Aurora has a real nice high riding position) so rather than drop forward into more of a race position I decided to lift the bars by fitting a quill extender.

I also fitted a bracket to be able to lock my 13Amp Li-polymer battery in place under the crossbar (similar to what I did on my Evans but put a bit more design time in this time) I used two stainless jubilee clips (one would have done but you can`t beat bely and braces) and drilled holes through the bracket for the clips to pass through to get the thing offset because the locking pin comes out off centre.

Now all my bikes will take that Li-polymer battery as a second power source and increase the range if needed. You can just see the switch fitted in the controller box that switches between the 10Amp battery on the rack and the Li-polymer.
quill_extender Photo Gallery by david chilvers at pbase.com

Dave

 

[jbond]

Would the battery fit vertically inside the frame triangle? I also wonder if it would fit inside the rack space or is it too fat?

 

[Old Timer]

Would the battery fit vertically inside the frame triangle? I also wonder if it would fit inside the rack space or is it too fat?

With the front changer and cranks in close proximity it would be too tight and jumbled. The battery would take the place of the original but then that would defeat the object of more Amps. There is room under the supplied rack and above the mudguard but trust me the Aurora is very rear weighted (almost wheelie times)
I tried on and around the front pannier rack but didn`t like the extra front biased weight.

No! after trying various positions on this and my Evans conversion and the fact that with the bracket I can actually lock the battery in place( not only against theft but to prevent side movement) in that position the bike feels much more balanced (slightly more so than standard BTW) it doesn`t get close to my legs at all and I can easily reach down to turn it on if the rear battery runs out.
What you might not see in my images is the handlebar grip sponge that is taped under the crossbar(that stays in place) that nicely locates the scolloped section of the battery, in fact without the locking plate the battery stays put anyway when the velcro straps are pulled tight and it takes just a minute to remove and put onto my Evans in the same way if I decide to take that bike out.

 

[jbond]

but trust me the Aurora is very rear weighted (almost wheelie times)

Oh yes! I've been caught out by this a couple of times. Especially on hills off road.

The only reason I was suggesting for a vertical mount is to get the weight as low as possible. Yes, the changer is a bit close but the gubbins is behind the seat post. I was mostly curious about the length.

The question about fitting it in the rack mount was as a straight replacement for the Alien LiOn battery. I guess the real answer to that is just to wait for Li-Poly innards in the same Phylion casing. How long before we get the 36V-15Ahr-3.5Kg battery?

BTW. I swapped pedals because the stock ones were very tight and I had a pair in the garage ready to go. I'm going to go back and try and free up the stock ones tonight. The front wheel bearings were also very tight. I'd strongly recommend checking them. Also fitted an Adie basket to the rack. Now everything is set up, I'll probably switch to a side stand. Like you I find the centre stand just not quite stable enough and it bangs and crashes over bumps.

 

[Old Timer]

Oh yes! I've been caught out by this a couple of times. Especially on hills off road.

The only reason I was suggesting for a vertical mount is to get the weight as low as possible. Yes, the changer is a bit close but the gubbins is behind the seat post. I was mostly curious about the length.

The question about fitting it in the rack mount was as a straight replacement for the Alien LiOn battery. I guess the real answer to that is just to wait for Li-Poly innards in the same Phylion casing. How long before we get the 36V-15Ahr-3.5Kg battery?

BTW. I swapped pedals because the stock ones were very tight and I had a pair in the garage ready to go. I'm going to go back and try and free up the stock ones tonight. The front wheel bearings were also very tight. I'd strongly recommend checking them. Also fitted an Adie basket to the rack. Now everything is set up, I'll probably switch to a side stand. Like you I find the centre stand just not quite stable enough and it bangs and crashes over bumps.

To be honest probably a good set up would be to leave the original battery off the bike altogether and just run on the 13Amp Li-Polymer under the crossbar, that way (the original must weigh in around 6Kg) it would be like shifting 10Kg forward if you get my drift?
I stuck a pair of Welgo pedals on mine( WELLGO FLAT PLATFORM DOWNHILL MTB BIKE PEDALS BLACK on eBay (end time 10-Oct-10 22:45:46 BST) ) and they feel just right( the type with the pins)they do them in silver or black.
When you take a look at your original pedals you`ll see that the plastic black end plug (nut shaped) needs to be prised out of the pedal to get at the bearing but mine refused to budge.

 

[jbond]

When you take a look at your original pedals you`ll see that the plastic black end plug (nut shaped) needs to be prised out of the pedal to get at the bearing but mine refused to budge.

I'm afraid the pedals are a complete joke. That plug isn't pushed in, it's screwed in. Remove it with pliers and behind it you'll find an 8mm nut with a reverse thread. Remove that and you'll find a single sealed bearing race. The pedal then slides off to find that the other end is just aluminium sliding on steel with plenty of thick sticky grease. There's no second bearing. And the rubber plug is what stops the pedal pushing inwards.

I mean, really????!!?? No wonder it feels like the pedals are rolling on honey. Just chuck them away before you get tempted to put them on something else.

 

[Old Timer]

I'm afraid the pedals are a complete joke. That plug isn't pushed in, it's screwed in. Remove it with pliers and behind it you'll find an 8mm nut with a reverse thread. Remove that and you'll find a single sealed bearing race. The pedal then slides off to find that the other end is just aluminium sliding on steel with plenty of thick sticky grease. There's no second bearing. And the rubber plug is what stops the pedal pushing inwards.

I mean, really????!!?? No wonder it feels like the pedals are rolling on honey. Just chuck them away before you get tempted to put them on something else.

Blimey! no wonder it wouldn`t prise off. Wonder how long they would have lasted? Don`t suppose Alien know how poor they are as the bike comes in ready made up.

 

[jbond]

For DIY battery mounts, you might like to check out this.
Home

Aluminium Flat Head
I figure the M4x0.7, M5x0.8 and M6x1.0 rivnuts with the Rivnut Tools cheapest rivnut tool bottom of page would be ideal for adding fixing points to an ally bike frame.

The Alien battery casings are too long too fit in the main triangle of the Aurora, but it would just about fit on my Ridgeback hybrid although the key would be hard to get at. That Oxygen battery seems a slightly different shape that fits better and the side mounted key locking helps as well.

I still think a neater solution would be to put it on the downtube resting in the bottom of the triangle. You could use the drink bottle mounting points and the seat tube to attach a bent ally plate mounting bracket. I think there's easily enough room between the pedals and sprockets as it doesn't look any wider than the drinks bottle, or no more than a few mm anyway.

 

[Old Timer]

For DIY battery mounts, you might like to check out this.
Home

Aluminium Flat Head
I figure the M4x0.7, M5x0.8 and M6x1.0 rivnuts with the Rivnut Tools cheapest rivnut tool bottom of page would be ideal for adding fixing points to an ally bike frame.

The Alien battery casings are too long too fit in the main triangle of the Aurora, but it would just about fit on my Ridgeback hybrid although the key would be hard to get at. That Oxygen battery seems a slightly different shape that fits better and the side mounted key locking helps as well.

I still think a neater solution would be to put it on the downtube resting in the bottom of the triangle. You could use the drink bottle mounting points and the seat tube to attach a bent ally plate mounting bracket. I think there's easily enough room between the pedals and sprockets as it doesn't look any wider than the drinks bottle, or no more than a few mm anyway.

Let us see the finished conversion

That under cross bar battery position works a treat on my Aurora and my Evans with the made up brackets and I can easily reach down and turn onto that second battery if required( remember I don`t always have or want the extra battery weight for just running local) and I don`t think it`s worth damaging the paintwork to fit those threaded rivets (I have used them before in my job and they work a treat mind you)

Good luck with your idea, I`ll be interested to see the finished article.

Dave

 

[jbond]

There's a challenge. Don't hold your breath as I have working system at the moment so won't be shelling out for another battery for a while.[1]

I was out in the woods this evening and the trails are beginning to get slick and muddy. It did make me think again that the Aurora could do with some of that weight moved forwards. It's not a problem really, except when going uphill. Just need to remember to lean forwards and get some weight on the handlebars or the front skipping around can get quite entertaining.

[1]But then now I've experienced e-bikes first hand, plans are forming in my head. If I just get a small hub motor, controller and bits I could convert the hybrid in the garage and share the battery. Seeing as how I can only ride one bike at a time...