Replacing a TranzXPST BL07 battery.

[RobT]

Raleigh Pioneer E-Bike, fitted with a hub motor powered by a TranzX BL07 battery - the battery is now defunct and I cannot find another usable one in the UK and it seems (would be very pleased if you could correct me if I'm wrong) TranzX have stopped making them some time ago and thus any remaining ones in stock anywhere may be dodgy because of their age? I sent the battery away to be refurbished, however, was told that the leaking cells had affected the BMS and no fix was possible.

Having been dry stored and seen very little use, the Raleigh Pioneer bike is absolutely immaculate and thus well worth fitting another battery to. As I seemingly cannot get a replacement BL07 battery, I am going to try and fit one of the many alternatives on offer. To achieve this and keep the existing Raleigh/TranzX associated power and light fittings, I'm guessing that I need to retain the Tranz CN34 +F15 PCB for appropriate connection of voltages and negative connections etc. There is a 6 pin connector, the 2 outer ones are the main +ive and -ive lines, what are the middle 4 ones? I have been unable to track down a wiring diagram. I am competent at wiring, using various connectors, soldering etc so should be able to adapt once I know what the 4 middle connection pins do.

many thanks, Rob

 

[AndyBike]

Something here maybe. Seem expensive though.

The largest and most affordable Online TranzX Battery Shop!

Are you looking for a TranzX Battery? Look no further! Hollandbik

hollandbikeshop.com

 

[cyclebuddy]

Raleigh Pioneer E-Bike, fitted with a hub motor powered by a TranzX BL07 battery - the battery is now defunct and I cannot find another usable one in the UK and it seems (would be very pleased if you could correct me if I'm wrong) TranzX have stopped making them some time ago and thus any remaining ones in stock anywhere may be dodgy because of their age? I sent the battery away to be refurbished, however, was told that the leaking cells had affected the BMS and no fix was possible.

AFAIK after Ebco and Raleigh both threw in the towel nobody else in the UK supports TranzX anymore... but they're still quite common in Scandinavian countries and mainland EU - Germany, France, Belgium - where many of their bike brands still do use TranzX (have done for many years).

Given you can't salvage the BMS and recell, you're likely stuck having to buy a new one like this. There'll be plenty other overseas suppliers if you fish around, hopefully one will ship to the UK.

The newer TranzX systems use CANbus, the older ones used PST/UART?, so you can't get away with a generic battery.

 

[RobT]

Something here maybe. Seem expensive though.

The largest and most affordable Online TranzX Battery Shop!

Are you looking for a TranzX Battery? Look no further! Hollandbik

hollandbikeshop.com

Thank you, I had found that one, however, the company states on their website that the don’t ship to the UK. Also, putting £495 towards a newer bike feels like a more sensible option.

 

[RobT]

AFAIK after Ebco and Raleigh both threw in the towel nobody else in the UK supports TranzX anymore... but they're still quite common in Scandinavian countries and mainland EU - Germany, France, Belgium - where many of their bike brands still do use TranzX (have done for many years).

Given you can't salvage the BMS and recell, you're likely stuck having to buy a new one like this. There'll be plenty other overseas suppliers if you fish around, hopefully one will ship to the UK.

The newer TranzX systems use CANbus, the older ones used PST/UART?, so you can't get away with a generic battery.

Many thanks for your advice and information. The literature with the bike and the old battery label says TranzXPST BL07 - so I can not buy another suitable 36 volt rear rack mounted battery and cobble a connection? If yes, could you please explain why i.e the difference between CANbus and PST…I am fairly new to Ebikes and their workings.
Also, can you purchase a generic “control box - CPU” to work with a new battery …guessing the existing Raleigh wiring would be too specific and also need swapping out, making the job far too complex? Regards, Rob

 

[saneagle]

Many thanks for your advice and information. The literature with the bike and the old battery label says TranzXPST BL07 - so I can not buy another suitable 36 volt rear rack mounted battery and cobble a connection? If yes, could you please explain why i.e the difference between CANbus and PST…I am fairly new to Ebikes and their workings.
Also, can you purchase a generic “control box - CPU” to work with a new battery …guessing the existing Raleigh wiring would be too specific and also need swapping out, making the job far too complex? Regards, Rob

If you like the bike itself, it might be worth stripping out the electrics except the motor and fitting standard Chinese stuff. That would be a lot better for the future, plus, you get control of power, range and speed. A battery the same size would cost about £200 and the rest less than £100.

 

[cyclebuddy]

If yes, could you please explain why i.e the difference between CANbus and PST…I am fairly new to Ebikes and their workings.

It's the 4 pins in the middle - these are used to communicate between the battery and the controller/display.

TranzX using CANbus (like Bosch, Yamaha, Brose, Shimano et al systems) allows a dealer to plug a laptop between the display and controller to interrogate the system - to see actual usage (like battery health and charge cycles), system fault diagnosis, and updating software from the over-the-web manufacturers database. It's a 2-wire digital TX/RX "Controller Area Network". The PST system was an earlier/cruder iteration; dealers were supplied with diagnostic "boxes" to connect and interrogate and isolate problems/issues/faults. I don't know much more about the older PST system other than even dealers I've spoken to who have the newer TranzX CANbus software remember but don't have those original PST boxes anymore.

Systems like these most often "handshake" with the controller to allow it to turn on and work. You could try rigging a vanilla 36v source (maybe from the charger) just to the +/- battery contacts on the bike and see if the bike wakes or throws a fault due to missing comms.

Your best option probably is as @saneagle suggests as a cheaper and less troublesome long term solution, given your wiring expertise.

 

[RobT]

It's the 4 pins in the middle - these are used to communicate between the battery and the controller/display.

TranzX using CANbus (like Bosch, Yamaha, Brose, Shimano et al systems) allows a dealer to plug a laptop between the display and controller to interrogate the system - to see actual usage (like battery health and charge cycles), system fault diagnosis, and updating software from the over-the-web manufacturers database. It's a 2-wire digital TX/RX "Controller Area Network". The PST system was an earlier/cruder iteration; dealers were supplied with diagnostic "boxes" to connect and interrogate and isolate problems/issues/faults. I don't know much more about the older PST system other than even dealers I've spoken to who have the newer TranzX CANbus software remember but don't have those original PST boxes anymore.

Systems like these most often "handshake" with the controller to allow it to turn on and work. You could try rigging a vanilla 36v source (maybe from the charger) just to the +/- battery contacts on the bike and see if the bike wakes or throws a fault due to missing comms.

Your best option probably is as @saneagle suggests as a cheaper and less troublesome long term solution, given your wiring expertise.

Great information and opens up a lot of potential solutions to salvage a little used bike - it is my wife's and she is an infrequent rider, but has got used to the Raleigh Pioneer and feels confident on it. Gut instinct is to strip out existing electrics apart from the hub motor, and perhaps the lights, and work with an authorised Raleigh dealer friend to fit all new wiring and battery. I'll report back once the project gets underway in the new year.

Thanks to all who responded. regards, RobT.

 

[RobT]

If you like the bike itself, it might be worth stripping out the electrics except the motor and fitting standard Chinese stuff. That would be a lot better for the future, plus, you get control of power, range and speed. A battery the same size would cost about £200 and the rest less than £100.

Hi, I have started today to look for a battery, controls and the associated wiring loom. Struggling to find the right websites, and the limited ones I have found so far are much more expensive than the costs you quote. Are you able to help with some web-links to suppliers you are familiar with?. Many thanks, Rob.

 

[saneagle]

Hi, I have started today to look for a battery, controls and the associated wiring loom. Struggling to find the right websites, and the limited ones I have found so far are much more expensive than the costs you quote. Are you able to help with some web-links to suppliers you are familiar with?. Many thanks, Rob.

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[RobT]

Hi, I had found that ebay 36 volt battery/rack item, however, the details in the advert indicate that the “back end” of the battery unit referred to as the control box is not included. I am very much on the steep part of the learning curve for remediating E-Bike electrics thus: although I note that you also kindly provided a link to a control box and display - how would the wiring loom for that connect to a simple battery’s connector pins, would I need to contrive some multiple wires into spade end connectors? I have messaged the seller to ask about supplying the battery’s associated control box which would have a +tive and a -tive wire. Regards

 

[Nealh]

Most of the rack batteries will have simple bullet connectors.

 

[RobT]

Most of the rack batteries will have simple bullet connectors.

That is good news. Thanks

 

[saneagle]

Hi, I had found that ebay 36 volt battery/rack item, however, the details in the advert indicate that the “back end” of the battery unit referred to as the control box is not included. I am very much on the steep part of the learning curve for remediating E-Bike electrics thus: although I note that you also kindly provided a link to a control box and display - how would the wiring loom for that connect to a simple battery’s connector pins, would I need to contrive some multiple wires into spade end connectors? I have messaged the seller to ask about supplying the battery’s associated control box which would have a +tive and a -tive wire. Regards

It says the rear rack is not included. The mounting plate and controller box thar screw to your rack or a Halfords one are included.

 

[Nealh]

From the pics it isn't clear if connectors are supplied, the wire ends are heat shrunk for safety so may have bullets under the heat shrink.
You would have to be sure if buying it would fit and lock in to your rack.

 

[saneagle]

From the pics it isn't clear if connectors are supplied, the wire ends are heat shrunk for safety so may have bullets under the heat shrink.
You would have to be sure if buying it would fit and lock in to your rack.

It locks to the receiver plate and controller box, not the rack. You can see the lock on the side of controller compartment. The whole assembly bolts to any rack.

 

[Benjahmin]

To help your understanding:
The controller sits at the centre of the system. The motor, handlebar display, battery, pas sensor and brake cutout switches are all connected to it.
Controller and display need to be bought as a pair to ensure they 'talk' to each other.
When buying a controller (like the one Saneagle linked), any 36v battery can be used. The battery will have just a +ve and -ve out, connectors can be changed to whatever you like. [Just be careful and only change one at a time so uninsulated pos and neg can never come together.]
As this is your first foray into the addictive world of e bike tinkering, I would suggest getting all the control stuff from one supplier to ensure plug compatability. Here's one I have used:

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Then you could get the battery Saneagle suggested.

Plenty of help here with the steep learning curve of nomenclature and technicalities.

 

[RobT]

It says the rear rack is not included. The mounting plate and controller box thar screw to your rack or a Halfords one are included.

Once again, many thanks - also to Benjamin and others for wiring explanations. The learning curve mists are clearing and I now have greater confidence of what kit I need and how it should fit together - so will be ordering soon.

I have a "supplementary" question regarding keeping the existing Tranz speed/power control and will send with some associated pics soon.

 

[RobT]

To help your understanding:
The controller sits at the centre of the system. The motor, handlebar display, battery, pas sensor and brake cutout switches are all connected to it.
Controller and display need to be bought as a pair to ensure they 'talk' to each other.
When buying a controller (like the one Saneagle linked), any 36v battery can be used. The battery will have just a +ve and -ve out, connectors can be changed to whatever you like. [Just be careful and only change one at a time so uninsulated pos and neg can never come together.]
As this is your first foray into the addictive world of e bike tinkering, I would suggest getting all the control stuff from one supplier to ensure plug compatability. Here's one I have used:

TopBikeKit-Electric Bike Lithium Ion/LiFePO4 Battery, Electric Bike Kit(Such As Bafang BBS Kits), Electric Bike Hub Motors, Electric Bike Charger, smart BMS, bluetooth BMS, Lithium battery BMS, Electric Bike Controllers, Electric Bike Meter, Electric Bike BMS/PCM, Electric Bike Accessories(Such As Bafang BBS Spare Parts, Bike Parts)-TopBikeKit Online Store For Electric Bicycle Parts-TopBikeKit.com.Electric bike parts and kits, electric bike controller, electric bike meter and display, electric bike BMS / PCM ( Battery Manage System ), electric bike charger, electric bike Bafang 8fun motor, electric hub motor, Bafang 8FUN BBS kits and spare parts, lithium ion battery and LiFePO4 battery-TopBikeKit Online Store For Electric Bicycle Parts-TopBikeKit.com.

TopBikeKit-Electric Bike Lithium Ion/LiFePO4 Battery, Electric Bike Kit(Such As Bafang BBS Kits), Electric Bike Hub Motors, Electric Bike Charger, Electric Bike Controllers, Electric Bike Meter, Electric Bike BMS/PCM, smart BMS, bluetooth BMS, Lithium battery BMS, Electric Bike Accessories(Such...

www.topbikekit.com

Then you could get the battery Saneagle suggested.

Plenty of help here with the steep learning curve of nomenclature and technicalities.

Hi,
Thank you for this advice. Following on from "getting all the control stuff from the same supplier"; should I ditch the existing Tranz power/speed thumb control fitted to the Raleigh (see pic) or chance that I can get it to work with a replacement control box and wiring loom? - likewise the pre-existing lights ( granted the rear one can go as the new battery has an integral one). regards, Rob

 

[Benjahmin]

KT controllers (the most recommended on the forum) come with up/down buttons built into the display, or as a seperate unit on a short cable connected to the display. Throttle is a seperate unit, either twist grip or thumb throttle. Most chance of getting it working if all ancillaries are bought at the same time. A throttle is only a few quid.
FYI I'd go for the block connectors not the 'waterproff Julet' ones. Reason being the julet ones don't allow you to insert the probe of a test meter , should you need to. All my bikes have been done with the blocks (which are mostly hidden in a bag) or can be waterproffed with silicone grease or self amalgamating tape.