This will probably work on all Kalkhoff hub geared bicycles but first a little context - please bear with me.
My second pair of Schwalbe Marathon Plus tyres developed a puncture (again in the rear wheel) between 11-12,000 miles (each pair lasted for about 6,000). This time around decided to replace the entire wheel set as wasn't sure how much longer the bearings in the wheels would last.
Agreed with Jim in the workshop at 50 Cycles that he, when he has a spare minute, can dismantle the old wheels to see how much life is still left in them. Perhaps he could report back here.
Anyways, the gear change on the new alfine hubs started out a bit hit-and-miss. Didn't think much of it at the beginning since I put it down to a break-in period. However this turned out not to be the case. In any event I noticed that the battery lights reduced in the same distances as before the wheel change (I cycle the same route everyday).
However, on the second day, the hit-and-miss gear change became irratating so phoned Jim to ask for advice. He informed me that as part of the wheel-change package, he fitted a new gear cable and that this had probably stretched during transit and to check the gear alignment. You can see how to do this at 50cycles Advanced Electric Bike Workshop Videos. Basically, put the bike into 4th gear and check the two yellow bars align at the rear wheel. If the gear cable has stretched over time (something to be expected), it can be tighted the same way that the brake cables can be tightened by adjusting the knob where the gear cable exits the shifter at the handlebars (turn anti-clockwise to tighten).
Voila! Gear change became a thing of beauty (OK, slight embellishment). But to top it off, the point at which the battery lights reduced is now about a mile more than previously. This makes sense if you think about it. Anything that reduces the transfer efficiency of kinetic energy from the pedals to the rear wheel will decrease batter performance.
Enjoy!
My second pair of Schwalbe Marathon Plus tyres developed a puncture (again in the rear wheel) between 11-12,000 miles (each pair lasted for about 6,000). This time around decided to replace the entire wheel set as wasn't sure how much longer the bearings in the wheels would last.
Agreed with Jim in the workshop at 50 Cycles that he, when he has a spare minute, can dismantle the old wheels to see how much life is still left in them. Perhaps he could report back here.
Anyways, the gear change on the new alfine hubs started out a bit hit-and-miss. Didn't think much of it at the beginning since I put it down to a break-in period. However this turned out not to be the case. In any event I noticed that the battery lights reduced in the same distances as before the wheel change (I cycle the same route everyday).
However, on the second day, the hit-and-miss gear change became irratating so phoned Jim to ask for advice. He informed me that as part of the wheel-change package, he fitted a new gear cable and that this had probably stretched during transit and to check the gear alignment. You can see how to do this at 50cycles Advanced Electric Bike Workshop Videos. Basically, put the bike into 4th gear and check the two yellow bars align at the rear wheel. If the gear cable has stretched over time (something to be expected), it can be tighted the same way that the brake cables can be tightened by adjusting the knob where the gear cable exits the shifter at the handlebars (turn anti-clockwise to tighten).
Voila! Gear change became a thing of beauty (OK, slight embellishment). But to top it off, the point at which the battery lights reduced is now about a mile more than previously. This makes sense if you think about it. Anything that reduces the transfer efficiency of kinetic energy from the pedals to the rear wheel will decrease batter performance.
Enjoy!
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