Sunlova Bike and Kit Review

  • Thread starter Deleted member 4366
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D

Deleted member 4366

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I have two Sunlova products: their ready-made 250w 36v mountain bike and one of their 250w kits fitted to a Claud Butler CBR Extreme. My friend bought one of the folding mountain bikes from Microgoods (Ebay) in Wolverhampton, so this is as far as my experience of E-bikes goes. I got a reasonable discount on both Sunlova products for paying cash, The bike is generally well made and robust, having the Bafang 8FUN motor, and after about 300miles I have had no problems. It has more power than the other two bikes and a lot more range. The battery indicator lights stay green towards the end of its range and then within a few miles of amber will go to red. I have never run out yet and I have done 40 miles in one journey (although with a fair amount of un-powered riding). We tend to only use the power for going up the many steep hills in our area. I should say that I am 58, 100kg and unfit. Cruising speed on the flat using the throttle is about 17mph. I'm not sure of how the controller works, but the pedal-assist seems to only give help up to 12 mph, but if I open up the throttle, more power comes. Overall, I am very pleased with the bike and can't believe that bikes costing a lot more can be that much better, but time will tell. My only niggle is that the on/off switch is by a key behind the seat, which is a little tricky to access when riding.

I fitted the Sunlova kit to my Claud Butler CBR with some difficulty. First the 140mm disc brake was too small so that the calliper was rubbing on the edge of the hub, so I got a 160mm disc and a 20mm calliper spacer, which fixed it. Then, there wasn't room for the pedelec sensor. I guess most people would experience this problem. (Maybe ready-made electric bikes have custom made bottom bracket spindles.) If you look at the "sensor" posts you can find more details on this problem. I solved mine with an asymmetric spindle found at a bike shop. The next problem was that I had no fixing points for the seriously heavy battery rack, so I dumped it and fashioned a custom rack from an old one and saved about 3kg. Finally, I had problems with fitting the throttle, which interfered with the gear change levers on the handlebars, and I couldn't fit the supplied switched brake levers because mine are integral with the gear-change levers. I guess this kit would probably work better with a less well equipped bike. First impressions of riding it were that the motor was faulty because it made terrible grinding noises under power, but this disappeared after about 30 miles. next impression was that this kit lacks power compared with my other bike, which has the same motor, so I guess the battery is the culprit. It doesn't have as much range, and the green light goes to amber on the first hill. The amber lasts quite a long time, but the power seems to gradually decrease. My friend had similar experience with his Microgoods bike, but after junking his overweight rack and battery box and after several battery cycles the power and range have improved, so I'm still hopeful for my kit, but just in case, I have ordered a battery the same as my Sunlova bike's one. After that doesn't improve things, I'll look at replacing the controller. Overall I would say it's not a good idea to buy this kit unless you are sure that you want to keep an existing bike - perhaps for its full suspension. I paid £385 for the kit, £10 for the disc, £4 for the spacer and £5 for the spindle. For about £100 more you can get the ready-made bike, which seems to give more power and range, and is a very solid, able and comfortable bike, with no cursing and swearing when you find things don't fit with the kit. I thought I needed the extra gears on my CBR, but once electrified, the normal seven gears on the Sunlova bike and my friends bike have proven to be adequate for our hilly roads.
 

Scottyf

Esteemed Pedelecer
Feb 2, 2011
1,403
-1
I brought my Kit from a member on this website and fitted it more or less after a week of so.

I fitted the Kit as described by D8veh with relative ease. I think this was mainly down to the fact I brought a bike that would fit the kit quite easily.

The Kit has been fitted to a Marin Kentfield FS and required not much in the way of a basic tool kit to fit it. Took me roughly an evening to fit (2/3 hrs) and was out on it the next day.

Now although the kit did add a good 7/8kg of weighy to the 12kilo of bike it rides very very well. Battery / Motor and controller although at the bottom end of the electric bike markets helps considerably on the hills andis happy to pull me along unassisted on the flats. However this may be helped by the fact its a hybrid and uses 700c skinny tyres.

I've used it on commutes on up to 18mile on one charge with 40% battery left. However I really only use the assist on hills and starting off. Once I'm up to speed I tend to turn it off (up to 15mph) as I can easily cruise on the bike without it.

The motor I feel doesn't drag that much but is quite subjective as you will notice the extra weight on the hills if you have to pedal unassisted.

The pedal sensors went on without a hitch really and as D8veh said though I had some trouble with the gear change lever. This is where it would hit the throttle when trying to change gear.
Just moved the gears across so the lever didnt hit it.
 
D

Deleted member 4366

Guest
I've now completed another 1000miles on my bike, so I thought I'd add a bit to the review. I've logged every journey this year with GPS and a watt-meter so I can give some data on how it performs.
Distance (miles):832.7
Time (hrs): 68.53
Height climbed (ft):28784
Ave speed (mph):12.76
Amp hrs from battery: 124.32
aH/mile: 0.2
wH/mile: 7.3
Rider weight (kg): 105
Ave range based on 6.5aH from 9aH battery: 54.35.

For most of the journeys the pedal sensor and motor were active all the time, but for some miles (probably about 100),I switched off power completely.
Since having the bike, I had to adjust the disk brake caliper alignment at the beginning, the rear derailleur once and the pedal sensor turned, which stretched the wire and stopped it from working, so I had to remove the chainwheel and re-set it. Other than that the only necessary maintenance has been the odd puncture repair.
I decided to up upgrade the caged ball bearing bottom bracket to a cartridge type, which I prefer, and found that one of the cages was broken, though it had been un-noticeable.

I've done loads of mods - mainly to make the bike better for me, but the only essential one was to the seat pin. When the seat is as high as I want it, the bottom of the pin is above the crossbar, so the frame would break because it's unsupported around the pin, so I got a 400mm seat pin to go right down into the frame - much stronger to support my 105kg. Also the other useful mod was to the pedal sensor, which I modified so that it couldn't rotate again.
Other mods:
Pull back handlebars
Cateye RG500 mirror
Splice light switch to brake switch for controller cut-off
Install toggle switch to light
Horn/indicators
Wattmeter
Bike computer
Install cartridge BB
Leather seat
Changed mudguards to full length
Rack and panniers
Alarm
Changed tyres to Schwalbe City Slicks
Changed chainwheel from 44 to 52 teeth.

In total I've spent £915 on the bike, which includes £205 for a spare battery that I've hardly used and saved £83 by using the bike when I would've normally used the car, which works out at a cost of about 31p per mile allowing for depreciation.

Overall, I'm very happy with the bike and I'm sure it will go for many more thousands of miles. I'll post again after the next thousand.
 

Scottyf

Esteemed Pedelecer
Feb 2, 2011
1,403
-1
Decided to do a little bit of movement on the bike with the controller setup etc.
Make it a little more stealth.

Any way I decided to take the controller araprt to find that the controller supplied was only rated at 6amp with a 13amp peak. :(

Possibly why Donna who I brought the kit of felt it wasn't that powerful.
On the other hand it means that I wasn't as unfit as what I thoguht previously :rolleyes:

Either way the weakest part in this kit was the controller for getting the max out othe setup.

Least I guess with this controller and standard setup your never really gonig to get a motor or battery failure from to much power / draw.

Also would mean extended battery life and range (As you'd have to pedal more) which is probably why when I ride the 18miles to work I only ever use up at best 3.4amp hrs and at worst 4.4amp hrs.

 
D

Deleted member 4366

Guest
Now completed 2000 miles. I didn't make any repairs or adjustments in the last 1000 miles apart from 3 puncture repairs and one adjustment to the charge socket: the retaining nut came loose so I tightened it. Performance is the same as last time except that I'm getting stronger so I use less power from the battery.