Wiring lights - Yamaha Motor - Giant 2016

mike tatt

Pedelecer
Jul 24, 2016
34
23
59
Worsthorne, Lancashire
I've just finishing wiring in some lights on my Giant E+ Dirt 2016.

There are quite a few threads around the internet that show how to install lights - but these are generally for the Haibike variants.

The Giant install is slightly different - some fiddly trim - and different connectors - so I thought that I would share my experience
The install is also cheaper as they use simple connectors that are available pre wired - ebay / RC model shops at lower cost to the Haibike JST Splitter cable. - 2GBP for three pairs of connectors.

I wish I had known this before I began - I sourced a Haibike style cable from Germany (cheaper than buying in the UK — and from a company that would actually sell me one - unlike some UK ‘businesses’ - Then I opened the Giant up and realised I needed a different connector ! ! !

You can do a Haibike setup for about 2GBP per unit also - if you have a good quality crimper - but you need to purchase the connectors in 10 unit packs - so the price jumps up unless you are making a few connectors.

Keeping the Haibike cable for now - as my wife has been looking at one of the Women's Haibike variants - so might come in useful later if she wants built in lights.

Parts & Tools

SM 2.5 2 PIN JST Female Connector - get one pre wired

Usual selection of hex keys
X Head Screwdriver
Soldering Iron
Solder
Heat Shrink Tube - small and medium
Crank Nut wrench (not strictly needed - but might come in useful)
2m twin cable - I used some from an old broken transformer.
Lights



Getting Started - Bike in Upright Position

1 Unfasten the lower battery holder by removing the four bolts
You need to be able to move battery holder up to release the side trims in the next steps

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2. Remove left hand side trim by removing the three bolts

Wiggle the battery connector up a little to release the end of the trim.

I took the pedal off to completely remove the trim from the bike - not essential - but gives more working space and stops potential damage.

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This is the lug fastener at the end of the trim - this is why you need to remove the bolts from the battery housing - so that it can lift and allow the trim removal.

[/URL]

3. Remove right hand side trim by removing the three bolts and One silver screw.


The screw is hidden behind the chain set and is difficult to remove.

I took out one of the crank nuts and used an old slightly bent screwdriver to reach through the nut hole as it brings the driver more inline with the nut.

If you have the time or inclination to remove the chain set the screw is easy - I have my trusty bent screwdriver to help me on these occasions.

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Bike in Upside Down Position

Don’t forget to remove / tilt the display out of the way


4. Remove the skid plate


One bolt under the front stem - and a couple of screws.

[/URL]

Another opportunity for the bent screwdriver to remove the screws - but much easier than the Right Hand Trim.

[/URL]


The motor is now exposed

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5. Remove TWO Motor Bolts - Loosen ONE

Bolts highlighted in Orange - remove - take care to catch the washers and nuts

Bolt Highlighted in Green - Loosen off but leave in place (with the nut attached) so that it can act as a hinge when you lift the motor.

[/URL]

When you lift the motor you can - on some bikes tighten the pivot / hinge bolt to hold the motor in the raised position. No luck on my bike so I put a piece of old seat post cutoff between the motor and frame to give me some working space.


6. The Wiring

Usual set of cables to connect the machinations of an e-bike.

One of the good things about the Giant - is the amount of tube space to hide wires and connectors in - It makes tucking the cables away quick and easy - can't comment on other makes - they might be as spacious.

Highlighted is the Light Cable

[/URL]

Here's a pic of the connector you need

[/URL]

Other views of the wiring set up for people who like these things.

Wires to the Motor

[/URL]

Wire to the Battery Housing

[/URL]

7. Cable Routing

Front cable - Down through the tube under the battery - same route as the controller cable - lots of space - very easy

Rear Cable - There is a slot behind the motor where the speed monitor cable routes - lots of space - very easy

8. Quick test

Fastened one of the battery holder bolts back in place and fitted the battery.

Twisted the cable for the rear light in place to test that it worked and the polarity was correct
Marked the ‘Red’ with a tab of tape.

[/URL]

[/URL]

Repeated for the front lights
[/URL]

9. Connecting Up

From here - it’s a simple soldering job

Soldered front and rear reds together
Soldered front and rear blacks together
Soldered Connector wires (from the prewired connector) to the relevant black/ red

Covered joins with heat shrink

[/URL]

Covered the whole connection with medium sized heat shrink.



Tested - all okay

10. Re-assembly

Tuck the cables away - as mentioned there is plenty of space in the tube

If you have tested the lighting (who would not ?!?!) - remove the battery and the holding bolt as you will need to be able to move the base battery holder to re-assemble.

Reverse procedure for the motor / trim etc

I took the opportunity to give everything a good clean also - I’ve dragged the bike through lots of mud, dust and a stream in the last week - It’s amazing where the dirt goes ! !
Noticed some rust on the motor bolts - which I'll keep an eye on - and add a spot of grease here to my maintenance regime.

Hope that this helps someone

Cheers

Mike
 
Last edited:

Robin Strachan

Just Joined
Aug 24, 2017
4
0
57
London
I've just finishing wiring in some lights on my Giant E+ Dirt 2016.

There are quite a few threads around the internet that show how to install lights - but these are generally for the Haibike variants.

The Giant install is slightly different - some fiddly trim - and different connectors - so I thought that I would share my experience
The install is also cheaper as they use simple connectors that are available pre wired - ebay / RC model shops at lower cost to the Haibike JST Splitter cable. - 2GBP for three pairs of connectors.

I wish I had known this before I began - I sourced a Haibike style cable from Germany (cheaper than buying in the UK — and from a company that would actually sell me one - unlike some UK ‘businesses’ - Then I opened the Giant up and realised I needed a different connector ! ! !

You can do a Haibike setup for about 2GBP per unit also - if you have a good quality crimper - but you need to purchase the connectors in 10 unit packs - so the price jumps up unless you are making a few connectors.

Keeping the Haibike cable for now - as my wife has been looking at one of the Women's Haibike variants - so might come in useful later if she wants built in lights.

Parts & Tools

SM 2.5 2 PIN JST Female Connector - get one pre wired

Usual selection of hex keys
X Head Screwdriver
Soldering Iron
Solder
Heat Shrink Tube - small and medium
Crank Nut wrench (not strictly needed - but might come in useful)
2m twin cable - I used some from an old broken transformer.
Lights



Getting Started - Bike in Upright Position

1 Unfasten the lower battery holder by removing the four bolts
You need to be able to move battery holder up to release the side trims in the next steps

[/URL][/IMG]

[/URL]


2. Remove left hand side trim by removing the three bolts

Wiggle the battery connector up a little to release the end of the trim.

I took the pedal off to completely remove the trim from the bike - not essential - but gives more working space and stops potential damage.

[/URL]

This is the lug fastener at the end of the trim - this is why you need to remove the bolts from the battery housing - so that it can lift and allow the trim removal.

[/URL]

3. Remove right hand side trim by removing the three bolts and One silver screw.


The screw is hidden behind the chain set and is difficult to remove.

I took out one of the crank nuts and used an old slightly bent screwdriver to reach through the nut hole as it brings the driver more inline with the nut.

If you have the time or inclination to remove the chain set the screw is easy - I have my trusty bent screwdriver to help me on these occasions.

[/URL]


Bike in Upside Down Position

Don’t forget to remove / tilt the display out of the way


4. Remove the skid plate


One bolt under the front stem - and a couple of screws.

[/URL]

Another opportunity for the bent screwdriver to remove the screws - but much easier than the Right Hand Trim.

[/URL]


The motor is now exposed

[/URL]


5. Remove TWO Motor Bolts - Loosen ONE

Bolts highlighted in Orange - remove - take care to catch the washers and nuts

Bolt Highlighted in Green - Loosen off but leave in place (with the nut attached) so that it can act as a hinge when you lift the motor.

[/URL]

When you lift the motor you can - on some bikes tighten the pivot / hinge bolt to hold the motor in the raised position. No luck on my bike so I put a piece of old seat post cutoff between the motor and frame to give me some working space.


6. The Wiring

Usual set of cables to connect the machinations of an e-bike.

One of the good things about the Giant - is the amount of tube space to hide wires and connectors in - It makes tucking the cables away quick and easy - can't comment on other makes - they might be as spacious.

Highlighted is the Light Cable

[/URL]

Here's a pic of the connector you need

[/URL]

Other views of the wiring set up for people who like these things.

Wires to the Motor

[/URL]

Wire to the Battery Housing

[/URL]

7. Cable Routing

Front cable - Down through the tube under the battery - same route as the controller cable - lots of space - very easy

Rear Cable - There is a slot behind the motor where the speed monitor cable routes - lots of space - very easy

8. Quick test

Fastened one of the battery holder bolts back in place and fitted the battery.

Twisted the cable for the rear light in place to test that it worked and the polarity was correct
Marked the ‘Red’ with a tab of tape.

[/URL]

[/URL]

Repeated for the front lights
[/URL]

9. Connecting Up

From here - it’s a simple soldering job

Soldered front and rear reds together
Soldered front and rear blacks together
Soldered Connector wires (from the prewired connector) to the relevant black/ red

Covered joins with heat shrink

[/URL]

Covered the whole connection with medium sized heat shrink.



Tested - all okay

10. Re-assembly

Tuck the cables away - as mentioned there is plenty of space in the tube

If you have tested the lighting (who would not ?!?!) - remove the battery and the holding bolt as you will need to be able to move the base battery holder to re-assemble.

Reverse procedure for the motor / trim etc

I took the opportunity to give everything a good clean also - I’ve dragged the bike through lots of mud, dust and a stream in the last week - It’s amazing where the dirt goes ! !
Noticed some rust on the motor bolts - which I'll keep an eye on - and add a spot of grease here to my maintenance regime.

Hope that this helps someone

Cheers

Mike
Hi Mike,
I am very interested in the advice you have posted. For some reason, I cannot see any of the images you have posted though. Can you help?

Thanks and best regards,
Robin
 

Nealh

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 7, 2014
19,989
8,172
60
West Sx RH
Pointless in posting Photobucket pics now or viewing past pics unless the account holder has paid the ransom money now demanded.
 

Robin Strachan

Just Joined
Aug 24, 2017
4
0
57
London
Thanks Neal, yeah, I was coming to that conclusion. Found some other articles on the same topic though so will follow that up. Cheers,
Robin
 
D

Deleted member 4366

Guest
You can find most of them with Google using this search string:

mike_tatt Giant E+ Dirt 2016
mike_tatt lights
Mike_tatt wiring

If there's any missing, use a bit of imagination in your search string.
 

mike tatt

Pedelecer
Jul 24, 2016
34
23
59
Worsthorne, Lancashire
Nice one Mike, it is amazing that Giant do not supply this info. I am grateful to you for your help.
No worries Robin, I'm just glad it's of use.

I agree that it would be great if Giant - and other manufacturers would supply decent service manuals / information - but I suppose that the franchised sellers might not be too happy about it !
 

cncservsys

Finding my (electric) wheels
Feb 18, 2017
9
2
64
South East UK
Further to this info that I followed very successfully to fit lights to my Giant Dirt E+1 2017.
There is a much easier method to install lights on this bike.
Simply pull the rubber grommet out of the top tube where the cables exit near the handlebar end. Then carefully pull out the cables a few inches and you will find a white (free) 2 pin connector. This is one of the lighting outputs which can be used for both front and rear lights. The connector on top of the motor is also there so presume they intended one for front and one for rear. The connectors referred to in this article are different on my model. I obtained the correct ones from Farnell part no 3849818 for the connector & 3849790 for the pins. Cost about £12 with the minimum quantities of 5 & 10 respectively.
Using this method you are much less likely to invalidate any warranty and it's quicker & easier although rear light cable would need to bee run externally so less attractive and subject to damage.
Hope this helps someone
 

mike tatt

Pedelecer
Jul 24, 2016
34
23
59
Worsthorne, Lancashire
Further to this info that I followed very successfully to fit lights to my Giant Dirt E+1 2017........
Looks like Giant have changed the connectors on later models.

I bought a ready made up connector - combination of the Farnell Parts you mentioned - as I thought that was correct.

I was following a huge thread on a German emtb site which went into great detail - but was focussed on Haibike Yamaha powered bikes. - I presumed that the Giant (being Yamaha driven) would be the same - so I sourced one - - alas - no - the connectors were different.

Also no connector anywhere the top tube.. I wish ! !

Moral of the story - basically check the wiring config before buying any parts

Thanks for the update -

Cheers
Mike
 

Chris.

Pedelecer
Apr 11, 2018
79
24
45
UK
Further to this info that I followed very successfully to fit lights to my Giant Dirt E+1 2017.
There is a much easier method to install lights on this bike.
Simply pull the rubber grommet out of the top tube where the cables exit near the handlebar end. Then carefully pull out the cables a few inches and you will find a white (free) 2 pin connector. This is one of the lighting outputs which can be used for both front and rear lights. The connector on top of the motor is also there so presume they intended one for front and one for rear. The connectors referred to in this article are different on my model. I obtained the correct ones from Farnell part no 3849818 for the connector & 3849790 for the pins. Cost about £12 with the minimum quantities of 5 & 10 respectively.
Using this method you are much less likely to invalidate any warranty and it's quicker & easier although rear light cable would need to bee run externally so less attractive and subject to damage.
Hope this helps someone[/
what voltage lights can be used?
 

mike tatt

Pedelecer
Jul 24, 2016
34
23
59
Worsthorne, Lancashire
Hi Chris

Can't find the tech spec for the bike - but seem to remember that the front can power 12v okay with 6v at the rear.

I have an AXA Blueline on the front - rated at 6v and a Busch & Müller rear - rated for 5-15 volts.
They work great and are fine for road / canal bank use - did the mod for my commute to work - working from home now so don't use them much now ! ! !

I spend over 90% of my night time riding off road so use a clip on Chinese Cree lamp - which I'm going to wire up properly and test when I get some spare time.
Cheers
Mike
 

Chris.

Pedelecer
Apr 11, 2018
79
24
45
UK
Hi Chris

Can't find the tech spec for the bike - but seem to remember that the front can power 12v okay with 6v at the rear.

I have an AXA Blueline on the front - rated at 6v and a Busch & Müller rear - rated for 5-15 volts.
They work great and are fine for road / canal bank use - did the mod for my commute to work - working from home now so don't use them much now ! ! !

I spend over 90% of my night time riding off road so use a clip on Chinese Cree lamp - which I'm going to wire up properly and test when I get some spare time.
Cheers
Mike
I can only find one input wire on my bike from behind the frame rubber grommet. and it looks like one light is to be fixed to it
 

mike tatt

Pedelecer
Jul 24, 2016
34
23
59
Worsthorne, Lancashire
Revisiting what I did (it's been a while) - look like mine is the same - maybe could have made the instructions easier to follow for this.

I just soldered an extra wire on - so two red wires soldered to the single red cable on the connector - and two blacks to the single black cable on the connector-
Basically 'Y' splitting the cable
So It must also be pumping the same voltage to front and back

Hope this helps
 

Chris.

Pedelecer
Apr 11, 2018
79
24
45
UK
Revisiting what I did (it's been a while) - look like mine is the same - maybe could have made the instructions easier to follow for this.

I just soldered an extra wire on - so two red wires soldered to the single red cable on the connector - and two blacks to the single black cable on the connector-
Basically 'Y' splitting the cable
So It must also be pumping the same voltage to front and back

Hope this helps
Strange I cant get mine to power a single 12v light but my cables from the bike are not red and black they are grey and white
 

Chris.

Pedelecer
Apr 11, 2018
79
24
45
UK
Revisiting what I did (it's been a while) - look like mine is the same - maybe could have made the instructions easier to follow for this.

I just soldered an extra wire on - so two red wires soldered to the single red cable on the connector - and two blacks to the single black cable on the connector-
Basically 'Y' splitting the cable
So It must also be pumping the same voltage to front and back

Hope this helps
Do I have to do anything with the display to turn the power on or is yours just a continues current regardless?
 

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