idiot magnet

OK, so that's explained that problem (I've wired 3 phase 415v motors before) I assumed the rotation would be sequenced regardless of wheel position and the wheel would eventually catch up to the motor's spin speed (as does AC motors). So next alternative is 1 large battery, 2 controllers, 2 wheels & 1 throttle... on the throttle (the one's I've seen) there's usually 3 wires:- ground, v supply & pot value return If I use a pair of same controllers, I should (in theory) be able to common the ground and just link over the pot return and be able to use 1 throttle (?)

so as long as the 2 (250w) wheels pull less current than the controller (500+w) then I should be able to wire the 2 wheels in parallel? There isn't any feedback wires off the wheels going to the controller is there?

I like the idea of balancing the weight, better off-road traction and possibly better acceleration/torque. I'm just wondering why (electrical terms) would there be a difference in using a pair of 250w's against a single 500w?

So, out of curiosity, what's the difference between a single 500w wheel and 2x250w wheels?

I'm looking at building 2 wheel drive bike (I already bought a rear wheel hub 250w Pro-Rider E-Voyager) I'm thinking to keep the system minimal:- 1 large battery, 1 controller (ie 500w) and a pair of matching hub wheels (ie 2x250w) Any possible problems? Thanks for looking.

I bought the 250w Pro-Rider bike yesterday with a 36v/10Ah battery. What I didn't realise is the wheel controller sits inside the frame underneath the battery, the cables run inside the frame which makes for a smart install. I left the charger on overnight as recommended by the seller and took it for a short 5 mile run using a mix of throttle only & assist....not bad. Undecided if I may sell the whole bike (the neighbour seems very keen on it) and go for a custom larger set-up. Maybe 500w rear/250w front.

OK, what about this as a starting point... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/230642061196?ru=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_from%3DR40%26_sacat%3D0%26_nkw%3D230642061196%26_rdc%3D1 I've asked the seller if the battery holding area will take a 48v20Ah when I decide to upgrade in future, they haven't replied. The reason I ask is that there is another bike which looks like it has the same frame... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2014-New-White-Super-X8-Ebike-48V-1000W-Electric-Bike-48V-20Ah-Li-ion-Battery-/181566851332?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2a463a4904 I like the clean look of this frame, not keen on basket batteries...just my personal preference. Do you think that frame will be OK? I'm not doing anything extreme like ramps & jumps, just off-road, tree dodging!

...I'm also undecided about whether to go 1000w rear or 2x500w, would 2 wheel drive be better off-road. I suppose then i would need a beefy controller or a pair of controllers & maybe 2 batteries

cheers d8veh, 40A is some serious current! I've been doing some reading on various sites (I think I know what 3C means now.... 3x current rating, right?). I'm coming to the conclusion that it may be best to save the pennies and buy a lithium pre-built battery with charger etc!

See? This is why I'm still noob to this! All I saw was the Ah of the 'C' batteries! Originally I was going to put them packed side-by-side and solder wire them in series. here's the batteries:- http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6-x-C-size-1-2V-10000mAh-Ni-MH-rechargeable-battery-Red-/390848436847?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item5b0061da6f I saw this kid use old laptop batteries on youtube and he made a pack using several cells in parallel and then put several packs in series for his voltage and got quite good speed & distance. Whats 3C? The reason for the 1000w/1500w is the terrain I use mostly is off-road and quite hilly, plus I weigh around 16stone! I got a regular bike for exercise but I just want a quiet, non-petrol off road fun machine. You're very limited where I live for taking petrol bikes off road, with the electric bike as long as I behave, I'm pretty much free to go anywhere.

Hello all, this is my first post to your forum. I've been looking at getting an electric bike for a while and I'm considering buying a 48v 1000/1500w rear hub kit. My (and probably a few other peoples) problem is price & location of the battery. I don't really like the look of a battery hanging over the back wheel and so would like one to fit within the triangle of the frame. I'm considering this idea, unless you techy guys can see a problem 42 x 'C' 1.2v 10000mAh Mi-MH rechargeable batteries, wired in series to give 50.4v @ 10Ah which only costs £58.59 The advantage to me is I can build the battery shape to fit the frame and a reasonable price and possibly use a standard 48v battery charger. Any thoughts?