Gigha

I have Nyon on one of my bikes and a Kiox on the other. Prefer the Nyon with its larger display. Sync to Strava is possible but has to be done manually from the online ebike connect portal. The Kiox requires a blue tooth connection with a phone if you want the full ride data to be available [a very power hungry app, can flatten my phone battery in a few hours] Note there have been problems recently getting either unit to upload the data to the online portal due to capacity constraints with the server [not certain why there are some many people using their bikes at the moment !] Seems to have been resolved over the last few days though. There is a new version of the Nyon due out later this year, [may get delay due to you know what] so may be worth waiting to see what functions it has before jumping in. [i suspect it may only support the Gen 4 motor and may not be backward compatible.]

I had this problem once , contacted Bosch via facebook and was given this reply "if you can not activate the WLAN at the Nyon after the update, please get in touch with your local dealer. He should use a Bosch diagnostic software to perform a so-called flash update with your nyon" My dealer initially had difficulty in getting the diagnostic software to run. I cant remember the exact details but think he fitted an Intuvia, this allowed something to be reset on the DU. A DU forced flash to the latest firmware was then carried out. The Nyon was refitted and its firmware reflashed. That cured the problem, I assume that there must have been some compatibility issues between the DU and Nyon firmwares as the DU firmware had never been updated prior to this. Hope this is of some help, looks as if you may have to visit a dealer with the bosch diagnostic kit. My nyon is on 2.7.5.0 [front & back-end]. The DU software is on 1.8.0.0, hardware 0.0.6.0 From the Bosch website the latest versions for Nyon are 2.7.5.0 and 1.8.3.0 for the DU

To replace the non-drive end bearing as suggested will require a virtually complete strip down of the motor. One of the main difficulties is removing the torque sensor, which has an unusual securing nut, this would probably need a special tool. [OK you could use a chisel but would have problems getting it refitted, though a normal nut could be used if it is a standard metric thread] I replaced the main bearing as noted in a previous post, the new bearing only lasted about a year before failing again. The non-drive end bearing had also failed by that time, the motor internals were in a very poor state due to moisture ingress and had no option other than to go down the motor replacement route. I will post a few photos of what happens to motor internals if there is water ingress, fairly certain ingress was through a failed "O" ring seal on the crankshaft. Failed motor bearing above, this was the supposedly upgraded type bearing as supplied by ebikeshop. The bearing is a "Max" type bearing and am fairly certain it is not suitable for use in the bosch motor. Max type bearings are primarily intended for static type applications [pivots] The external bearing seal had been fitted, the cynic in me suspects that this external seal is more about pushing the eventual bearing failure out past the warranty period rather than any properly engineered solution. If I was going to do another bearing replacement would probably just use a good quality bearing from SKF. Motor internals with moisture evident within the casing. There is also some damage evident to the pcb where the shaft fouled it when the main bearing collapsed. Internal shot of the drawn cup roller clutch internals above. The bearing was full of rusty gunge [photo taken after cleaning attempt] Would have required to use an ultrasonic cleaner to get it cleaned out though the bearing further in may have been problematic. Drawn cup roller clutch bearings are an interference fit and would have required access to a hydraulic bearing press to change, definitely not something that could be pushed out / refitted with the use of a socket. Drawn cup roller clutch shaft, lots of corrosion and wear marks evident. May have been possible to clean up with some fine emery paper. [still surprised the motor worked OK up until when the bearing failed, though was giving occasional error codes 500 and 510. If you get these codes would start worrying] View of the "O" ring seal on the crankshaft. Suspect this "O" ring seal was not effective as there is notable corrosion either side of it. Shaft movement due to the non-drive end bearing failure may not have helped the "O" ring seal performance. Before anyone asks, no I don't use a pressure washer to clean the bike. I do though transport the bike on a tow bar mounted rack and sometimes wonder if that is the reason why I have had so many bearing failures on this bike [3 year old Haibike with ~ 19000km on the clock, every bearing on the bike has been replaced at least once.] I hope this info is of some use to the bosch powered bike owners out there.

A 3 year old Haibike AllMtn Pro with about 19000km on the clock was giving occasional battery problems. [error code 530 and occasionally loosing power] One on the problems appears to have been the state of the frame battery connection terminals. The +ve terminal appears to have lost its coating, which has allowed the underlying copper terminal to start corroding badly, see photo below. What a new frame battery connection looks like I know the terminal are covered in dirt but there must be some sort of electro - chemical reaction taking place as only one of the terminal is badly corroded, maybe something that anyone with an older Bosch powered bike should look out for. I do transport the bike on a tow bar mounted carrier in all weathers and wonder if maybe the salt laden spray in winter has maybe exacerbated the problem. Have now bought a motor cover to keep the battery terminals clean while the bike is being transported, will be interesting to see if it makes any difference. I suspect that this may be just be a part that needs replacing every few years. Fortunately Adrenalin ATV had the part in stock, not a particularly difficult job to replace though does require the motor to be dropped out. The next problem to figure out is why my 400W/h power pack is as dead a the proverbial Dodo [gave up the ghost while waiting for the spare part to arrive, my 500W/h battery is OK].

More or less, but only 4 modes are active at one time. Either the default modes or the custom modes. It is not possible to go from say eco to custom 1 and then on to tour. You step through the 4 default modes or the 4 custom modes. Making the custom or default modes active only takes a few seconds, so not really a problem.

Just to clarify the custom mode function, it is possible to change the profile of the power delivery as shown below. There are 4 adjustable points on each custom mode, which can be moved in the power and speed axis to give the profile that suits your riding style / conditions. The original 4 modes are always retained, the custom mode function is selected on the Nyon Ride screen, changing between the custom modes is then done in same way as going from Eco, Tour etc. Hope this helps.

Just to clear up any doubt, below is a photo of my old bearing with the new bearing packaging. [unfortunately did not take any photos of the motor strip down / rebuild] I was a little surprised to see that the replacement bearing was a MAX type, I have always thought that this type of bearing was mainly used in static type situations [i.e. pivots] e-bikeshop do though advertise it as the upgraded motor bearing. The LLU is a more robust seal type - original was a standard 6809 with LUT seal.

I got the bearing from e-bikeshop , though they will only sell you a bearing if you actually bought the bike from them. As mentioned earlier in the thread also get the plastic auxiliary seal. Further to my previous message, as the bearing is still in the housing don't pull the drive shaft out as it should make the eventual reassembly simpler.

I replaced the bearing on my motor about 6 months ago so may be able to help. It is very difficult to tell from the photo you posted, but did the bearing come away with the outer casing or is it still attached to the drive shaft as in the photo below I actually removed the motor from the bike as it was much easier to work on it at a workbench. From the photo you posted it appears as if there has been some water ingress into the motor. The grease on mine was a nice white colour not the discoloured gunge that is in yours. The main drive shaft that the bearing is on can just be pulled off, [there are no sensors on it - the photo SW posted has nothing to do with this motor] you though do need to exercise some caution as it is a two part shaft with a Drawn cup roller clutch in the centre section. It does need to be kept very clean or you will have problems down the line. If the bearing is still on the shaft you will need a bearing puller to get it off, do not attempt to lever it off or you will damage the plastic gear wheel. I had to borrow a yoke type puller as my own puller could not get a grip of the bearing due to the small clearance between the bearing and plastic gear. If the bearing came away with the outer casing then it will be a simple matter of pressing the bearing out, again be cautious as the casing is very thin and could easily be damaged. The most difficult part was putting it back together - getting gears meshed correctly required a lot of trial and error. Note the bearing is an Enduro 6809 LLU Max C3 [6809 LUT fitted originally]

There is a known problem with the main drive bearing on the Gen 2 motors, it though should not have failed after such a low mileage [mine started to get noisy after ~ 4000km] Bosch now use an upgraded bearing [MAX type i.e. it has the maximum number of ball bearings in the race for higher radial strength], the upgraded bearing also features a more robust seal [LLU type]. There is also a small auxiliary seal being fitted externally, which give some extra mechanical protection to the main bearing seal. The bearing and auxiliary seal are available from a certain UK ebike shop, though they will only sell to people who have purchased bikes from them.

I have checked the Nyon mileage figures against a GPS . Both now more or less in agreement after I tweaked the wheel circumference setting on the settings page.

If the intuvia is so great why have you also fitted a Halfords cycle computer on your bars ?

Mine was replaced under warranty, you should get on to your dealer about it.

That's strange my Nyon keeps track of the total milage on the Dashboard screen [i reset the trip data before every ride] The total mileage is also shown on the online portal if you bother to upload the data. Bosch still don't allow the ride data to be downloaded in GPX format so no use if you want the ride data for Strava etc.

I have one of these works a treat opening and closing the quick links. Too big though to be carrying around with you though.

Nice to hear that you managed to get it all working in the end though don't pretend to understand how. Also a bit confused with the photos, one shows a bike with Avid brakes and the other with Shimano brakes. Obviously missed part of the discussion somewhere, not that it really matters as the post layout would have been the same for both systems.

Do you see the charge signal when you have the Nyon USB cable connected ? If not the USB connection point may be damaged - there a few reports of this being damaged by people trying to force the connector in the wrong way round. I wonder if the update would be possible with the Nyon fitted on the bike, assuming you can get it in range of your WiFi signal.

Sorry about the rude reply, should have counted to 10 before hitting the send button. Most people will agree that the Nyon system has been a bit of a disappointment, we are just hopping that Bosch can make it a bit more useful. We are fully aware that you are a Nyon hater from your numerous negative posts about it, do us all a favour though and just give it a rest. Re your rear brake upgrade, I had a look at that part you have ordered and just cant see how that is going to work. Have you check this Sram/Avid mounting bracket chart Its hard to see how you will be able to get a suitable bracket to work with a 203mm rotor [shims maybe?] If your latest part does not fit it might be worth asking on one of the regular mountain bike forums, where they probably have more experience of this type of upgrade.

The altitude can be set on the Settings page, on reflection though the actual attitude should not affect the ascent calculation. Just checked my last ride data and the figure from the Nyon was not that far out [Nyon 800m, Strava 840m]

No I think they are ordering parts for their brakes which will never fit, how's that going. haha lol

Did you calibrate you Nyon elevation before setting off ? I find the elevation profile from the Nyon matches that from my GPS if I remember to calibrate before setting off. [not aware of how to get the total ascent from the Nyon or the online portal]

Has anyone managed to update their Nyon with the new update that has just been released. I tried a couple of times this evening but failed on each occasion. The Online Portal seems to be down as well so that may have something to do with it.

My experience is similar to yours, now give the chain a light lub after every ride. I had to replace the chain at 1700km [not certain if that is considered abnormal], should have replaced chain much earlier as some wear evident on the larger cassette sprockets. Used Wet lub initially but changed to Muc-off dry lub in the summer. Now trying Muc-off C3 Ceramic with the new chain, will see if that makes any difference to chain wear but I doubt it. One thing I am guilty of is using a chain cleaning device & degreaser occasionally, I was not aware that the chain manufacturers recommend that degreasers / Citric cleaners should not be used on the chain [mentioned in another thread a few weeks ago] Will try just wiping the crap off the chain to see if it helps in improving the chain life. I wonder if the design on the Haibike idler sprocket may have something to do with the need to lub the chain frequently, in muddy conditions it certainly catches the mud and grinds it into the chain. [not to mention the crap getting thrown onto the rear shock] About 50% of my mileage is done on forest / wind farm roads, when dry the dust can be very abrasive.

Yes I have seen that happen on a couple of occasions. Another one is where everything looks OK on the Nyon but when the ride data is uploaded to the e-bike portal there is no track displayed on the map. The only thing visible is the speed and cadence profiles, presumably the GPS data file had somehow become corrupted.

That's interesting to hear, it was inferred that they had never seen one of these failing before so Bosch were refusing to replace it under warranty as they thought I must have damaged it in some way. Anyway purely academic, Martin at e-bikeshop has now agreed that it should be replace under warranty.