Pedronomix

In the end I went with new cromo rigid fork from on-one.co.uk with disk and canti mounts, a set of canti front brakes, retaining rear disk setup and TORQ multi angle torque arms. The wheel/hub assy is off being reset for out of true ( as delivered!). This also means I can run one kit supplied cable brake lever with a motor cut out and yet still have all the parts to put the bike back to spec if need be. I expect to be test riding at the weekend!

The Atlantic! Link is Amazon USA and I am in Ireland!

Thanks d8veh, I had hoped to find something this side of the pond!!

Kit and power pack have arrived and I have started assembly, bought a sturdy rear carrier and a top pannier bag to house battery. Mounted and nicely secure. Issues: 1. Wheel rim does not run true (10mm run out!), not buckled.... I assume I can get the spokes/rim adjusted in a bike shop? 2. Insufficient clearance between motor hub and hydraulic disk caliper. Are disk spacers are available? 3. Specialized Front Fork: 700c.. As pointed out above, Drop outs are too small for larger diameter axle for safety and are too narrowly spaced to allow any washer on the insides of drop out (axle shoulder to shoulder takes up 100% of gap!). I will also fit 2 x torque arms. As I like the bike, I plan to get a steel fork for 26" moror kit with disk brake. Can anyone recommend something suitable? Thanks Pedro

One is probably as good idea, so wll go with that. i have seen sone tidy reed switches online that should be easy to fit and neat. I will post up my progress and pics if anyone is interested.

The light is starting to glow. I bought the wrong technology/spec (old) battery pack! I will go with your suggestion d8veh to leave out the manual throttle and use max setting 4 for the pedal assist. Do I still need to have a cut-out switch? if this proves good enough for my actual usage, happy days. If not I will add the piggyback cells with bms charging. Thanks for the education. P

Youb are hardly suggesting that I buy a second kit? If it proves an issue, I will just get the rear wheel re-rimmed to 26"!! A little more elegant solution I think!

I intend to wire these piggyback packs in series and then piggyback them to the main pack in parallel. Suggested charger would then need to charge eack piggyback unit sperately! or am I wrong? P

Doing me best to stay with you!! Am I off-beam to think that my existing 48v charger would charge such a 13s pack? P

How about if I added two of these in parallel http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__21374__ZIPPY_Compact_5000mAh_7S_25C_Lipo_Pack.html ?

To what level do i need to increase the battery capacity to allow a safe 25amp draw? Cheers P

Thanks Rob, I had thought of that but when you are new to something, the danger of a major booboo is ever present!!

Problem with?

This appears to be a minor engineering challenge, provided the forks themselves are capable of handling the torsional loads, rather than something falling out!! If the forks are strong enough and the drop-outs themselves can sustain the imposed loads/forces... happy days, the rest is easily sorted! P

Great info thanks. I am sort of stuck on progress until the postman delivers the kit at least! I will be back! P

These are my forks. In the top pic, it looks like they are designed to take the larger axle, note the clamp nut is sitting below centre line of rebate. The axle dropout wall thickness is 10mm. The engineer in me says it looks pretty strong but I would consider machining up some titanium or stainless torque arms to be on the safe side. I am in my 60s so not planing anything more than paved surface use! Are you moved by this D8veh? P

Hi D8veh. The truth is never a negative!! Thanks for taking the trouble to reply so comprehensively, I am very open to advice and guidance from those who know more than me (many)!. Where are the forks likely to "give"? I have engineering skills so reinforcement may be an option or if not I will look at steel forks! The bike cost me about £200 and it is as new, hardly used. Can I ask you to explain about the shunt mod? Could I replace it with an 18Amp unit? Thanks again Pedro

I am an ignorant newbie to this scene, so can I ask you to elucidate on this. I am genuinely anxious to learn from the expertise/generosity of others. Thanks Pedro

Hi Richardadc I am doing the same, see my post of today. one of my questions about cut-offs/disc brakes has been answered here I see :-) I am using a 26" front wheel kit, though the bike has 700 x45c tyres now!! As my 1000w motor is front wheel mounted I am concerned about the situation regarding a use of a proper torque arm on the front fork/axle mount, have you decided on this? Cheers pedro

Hi Having converted a doorstop Vectrix scooter last year to Nissan Leaf power sucessfully, I then sold it as it was too cumbersome for my needs. I have had knee surgery and need to get pedalling and I love the whole EV concept for clean local trips and convenience, even though I am a petrol head and have gone back to competition recently too!. So I decided a bike was the way to go but new ones to a proper spec are crazy money. I am retired so have time to assemble all the parts but as luck would have it, I bought all the stuff yesterday, an ideal bike for sale locally, only used 3 or 4 times ( was bought on a bike-to-work tax rebated scheme) at 30% of new cost http://bicycletimesmag.com/first-impres ... port-disc/. Light Alloy frame, composite alloy suspension forks and hyd disk brakes seemed to be about right for the job at hand. I expect it to be quite lively!! Two ebay auctions ending last night won me the front hub motor kit http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/151701379415? ... EBIDX%3AIT and the 48v 10 Ah Lipo battery with BMS and charger http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Electric-Bike ... fresh=true. So, just on 900Euro ($1000) all in, I am set to build once the ebay items arrive from Austria and Gemany. I do have some questions to put seeking the advice of the folks on here. 1. Should I have some sort of a torque arm on the front fork? Spec : RST Vogue Comp SL 700, 75mm, 1pc. magnesium lower w/ disc mount and alloy steerer, Cr-Mo 28.6mm stanchions, hyd. LO and pre-load adj., spring type seal 2. Is it OK/good idea to mount the battery pack and controller in a panier bag on the back? 3. I do not wish to use the motor cut out brake levers supplied with the kit and lose the higher quailty hyraulic units fitted. Options: a kill button? Microswitch? suggestions? All input most welcome. Thanks Pedro Dublin Ireland