andyv

OK until I find something better I've attached a lump of Sugru which seems to do the job.

I got a kit maybe 4 years back which included a thumb control and a twist control. So far I've broken two thumb controls - mainly due I think to banging up to things on public bike racks. I've fitted the twist control but don't like it and want another thumb control but I need something more robust. It's the plastic projection which breaks. Does anybody do something more durable?

Thanks for the response. There's no particular time it cuts out. Sometimes it can be when I'm about to pull away from traffic lights and I find it's gone off whilst waiting. Other times it's after going over a bump. I've not done much hill climbing. I was in Holland last week - about as flat as it gets, yet still cutting out. I'll have to fit the PAS next I think.

i've got a kit using the KT-LCD3 display and KT36ZWSRT-LCD controller. It runs fine most of the time but has a tendency to cut out. The display goes blank and I have no power. There doesn't seem to be any particular reason for this, and it always comes back on straight away when I press the button next to the controller. I've checked with the supplier, who has told me to look at all the connections. Nothing I can see. Before I start dismantling and sending stuff back, has anybody had this problem? Don't know if it's relevant but I've got a twist throttle and haven't installed the PAS system or the brake cut offs which came in the kit. The motor is 250 Watts, but the display frequently runs up to 380 Watts. The display has power settings 1-5 but they all seem to be the same to me in performance terms, though so far my maximum trip has been only about 15 miles.

Ok an update. I've been working on the kit over the weekend, and have got the bike running. Following help on here, I've learned how to adjust the 6 speed so it changes smoothly, and with battery power it's pretty impressive. I've only ridden it a mile so far and it needs all the wires tidying up but I think it's going to be fun. Thanks everybody.

Yes - following trex above I've cleaned off the grime on the old wheel and found the numbers. It is indeed a cassette.

So my old wheel with the 8 cogs - is that a free wheel or a cassette? You can tell I've not done much beyond pumping up the tyres.

Thanks for this. My dropout width, that is the spacing between the two sides of the spindles that sit inside the forks is 135 mm. The new motorised wheel and 6 cogs just fits, but interestingly the cogs are spaced a little wider than on the original. The 8 cogs are 5 mm apart, but the 6 cogs are 6 mm. So it looks like it's 5 mm wider than original with 8 cogs. I might just be able to squeeze this in.

Thanks flecc - that's a really helpful description. Trex - thanks for the suggestion. Although this would be the ideal way to go, 8 cogs take up just too much room.

First time here so apologies if this is a regular topic. I just got a kit for my bike which has come with a 6 speed shimano freewheel gear set ready attached to the wheel. Well I think it's a freewheel though I've never taken much notice. The existing bike has an 8 speed gear set. If I can make it work I'd like to stick with the existing shifter mechanism, but I can see that there's a chance I might be running the chain off the end of the cogs. I don't think I can swap the gears over as they are probably just a bit too wide with the hub motor. How do I adjust the shifter mechanism for 6 rather than 8 gears?