jollyDodger

the main reason for me getting the obera is that if get it in black, wrap some innertubing round it, it will hide in a rack of other bikes as a non-e bike..(it’s also insured) I’m getting the basic non-hydraulic dropbar model due to wanting crosstop breaks (i know they are shit but stopped at the lights i can straighten my back) swapping out the tires for the widest marathon plus’s - fat tires that i can pump up hard for speed or let out air for suspension works better for me than front fork suspension) mud guards, dynamo lights, abus frame lock with cable + mini d-lock (i.e. you need two sets of tools to nick the bike) cycle to work scheme... worried it might get a bit heavy with all the extras..

not an issue. it paid for it’s self in transport fees, and the household insurance paid out nearly everything .. just a bit boring.

tested one last week, up a short 55m primrose hill (london) and it was fine (i’m a middle aged asthmatic). Not as fast as previous bikes i’ve used i.e. e-silence. But not too far off. I’m ordering one based on that and hopefully it will be ok (i live at the top of crystal palace hill, and need it for the daily commute)

Sn: gj678644 1 year old (so thankfully paid for it’s self in travel costs) Has a small nick on the top tube where someone tried to hack saw through the frame instead of the lock previously. £80 lock sawn through with a circular saw at 7pm on a Friday night on a shoreditch high street! Left for less than an hour and a half. Great bike, served me very well. If anyone sees it for sale please contact me

The Specialized levo version of the Brose has these 'tuning' tutorials (to change the size of the wheel in software): ....but i can't find any info on how to do it with the BMZ version of the bike - i don't think it has bluetooth. (i have a scott e-silence - 30% off in January sales!) - Anyone know how, or what software to use please? (private road use only) thanks ===== https://electricbikereview.com/forum/threads/turbo-levo-tuning.9995/ https://www.pedelecforum.de/forum/index.php?threads/bleevo-app-für-specialized-levo-erfahrungen-und-austausch.51368/

Wow lots of geekery. Although most interesting and impressive, I'm hoping to find out which mid-drives have the least pedal resistance pls?

Thanks good to know.. Also its the Shimano Steps motor that a reseller was claiming had less crank resistance than any other current mid-drive.. Has anyone compared this to the Brose in this respect? ...also little wierd that on the shimano site the ,more powerful Shimano Steps E8000 is listed than lighter than the less powerful E6000.

Hello Pedelec world, Do people know what sort of extra resistance e-bike motors generate when over the top-speed cut off please? I know from experience that the extra weight slows one down. But it's difficult to tell when riding if its the weight or the pedal resistance. I've read that the direct-drive hub motors turn into dynamos, and some bike dealers are claiming particular brands of mid-drive hubs have this advantage over others: looking at these mid's? Bosch Active (2.9kg) Bosch Active Plus (3.2kg) Bosch Performance (4.0 kg) Bosch Performance CX (4.0kg) Shimano Steps E6000 (3.2kg) Shimano Steps E8000 (2.8kg) Brose (3.4kg) Yamaha

Its the "thus doubling the effective weight," that is misleading not your post d8veh. From how i have grasped the explanation of the physics behind this, the extra rotational weight would be on acceleration not deceleration. However as you have clearly pointed out any extra weight on front forks that are not designed for that sort of load bearing is dangerous. What are your thoughts on the now shipping Copenhagen wheel?

Rotating weight make a small amount of difference and only when accelerating. Admittedly the weight difference here is huge, but a Copenhagen Wheel, compared to a traditional rear hub is not that much difference in weight (and comparable to on-line tests of bicycles with heavy vs light rims). I would guess that either rolling resistance, regenerative braking or aerodynamic design would more than make up for rotating weight. I like the complete wheel concept a lot and may invest and see if it really does work. Admittedly it's not the right bike for those that it's marketed at i.e. 'lazy americans', I want a lightweight bike just to give me a little bit of help home up a hill. My current dutch electric bike on doing a 14mile journey everyday has more that 50% battery but also weights 30kg.

Don't you know its rude to ask a middle aged man his exact weight. ;-) I'm about 11 stone. But how to chosse between rear hub or midDrive you recommend (apart from the current legal issues)? O.T. Yep... i guess the current laws are inadequate and a new class of vehicle will eventual be created to keep up with tech developments. I vote 20mph road legal not 15mph. I expect there are many threads on this here already. /O.T.

Good info! - Good to know that its easy to fix a flat on a rear hub, as long as i have a pocket alu. cycle spanner & I will check for horizontal drop-outs So a belt drive is a no-no for me as it would require a new frame (but defo. something to look out for: http://en.r-m.de/bike/roadster-touring/ & http://www.bikesoup.com/magazine/buyers-guide-10-best-gates-carbon-belt-drive-bikes/). So.. two votes for a mid drive with a rear gear hub, but none for a rear hub. Is the future for rear hubs over?'he says with troll hat'? I thought hubs had less moving parts, lighter, less friction and so more reliable and efficient? so...I still have to decide between a rear hub with derailer OR mid-drive with hub gears for this road bike build. I like the rear-hub for the above reasons, but like the midDrive for simplifying the rear wheel, making it stronger and centring the weight (so i have the option of putting the battery on the rear rack)

I've been riding a Sparta r10i for the last two weeks dong 18miles a day including living at the top of crystal palace hill and its been amazing. The list of features is outstanding, it's super robust, extremely comfortable and a wonderful piece of engineering. But... it's not what i'm used too. The Sparta has an upright riding position, (I usually ride a drop-bar road bike), I can't do more than 20mph on the flat without power (my old normal bike is lightweight with 24mph as my top speed). Also I have maintained and rebuilt my own bikes for the last 20 years and with the Sparta it's not really designed to be tinkered with, and is more of dealer maintenance thing. But.... i have fallen in love with electric bikes.. so now i want to build one that is like my road bike but, fast at the lights, can go up steep hills and if i'm feeling lazy, can power me home. I have a couple of old road bikes in the garage (a r400 80's alu. cannondale, and a 90's hybrid alu. Claud Butler). Both are fairly trashed and need full chainset replacements, but would work as lightweight bases. I require: - lightweight so i'm not super slow unassisted - 20 miles range being lazy, 50 miles working the bike. - 20mph with power (but 15.5mph on public roads of course) - Gears (I found i get 30% more battery if i use gears at lights) - would like a alfine, would love a belt drive. - Quick off at the lights (using pedal assist, rather than a throttle, as i need hands free to work the gears) - Stealth, don't steal me from a urban street (but i still have insurance) - 1) battery & display has to be removable (or have no display as i don't see the need for it apart to check battery and select power level). 2) Battery needs to be a bottle or on the rear rack type, dolphin batteries are too obvious. 3) the controller needs to be integrated/hidden. 4) is quiet-ish. - Not all weight is at the rear (I like batteries on the rear rack, but when combined with a rear hub, rear wheel skids are far too easy when suddenly braking. Confusion: - Is a front hub bad? Friends have said that a front hub is the worst of the three ront/rear hub or mid-drive choices, due to lack of traction, particularly on hills? - Are there any hub drives that make it ok to change a flat tire by the side of the road, have people found that rims with hub drives buckle or require more tru'ing? - Are hub drives more efficient? - Are there any other recommended mid-drivs apart from the 8fun. These look interesting? Pendix or Bikee Bike or Binova Flow Any advice please?