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Steve davis

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  1. Thanks d8! Using the cyclamatic as an example, would you splice in the booster pack before or after the controller?
  2. Yes, not sure how the controller deals with it either. Will do the search you recommend.
  3. Still on the idea of a simple booster pack... I found this on youtube. You've probably seen it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PAKgDdc ... _&index=39 This guy added a booster back and literally just spliced the pack into the wire that runs from the battery to the motor. I'm assuming he is splicing into the battery wire coming out of the controller... would love you thoughts on this approach. sdavis
  4. Me too. It's gnawing at me...more performance just a bit of solder away...
  5. Got it. Thanks. Sounds like the best action will be to buy a new 36V battery and controller and give it a try.
  6. Thanks! Really appreciate the detailed answer. For me it was more of a question of could it be done vs. should it be done! As is often the case, "could" sounds like it doesn't make sense! You know, it's interesting. I picked up the Cyclamatic, used, for around $300 US. Almost brand new according to the owner; 20 miles only in use. Who knows. But, the bike looks like new and does what I was looking for ( flattening hills) with a couple of exceptions. It stinks at flattening big hills and, until I added a suspension seat post, was a real kidney buster on bumps. I personally like the pedal assist mode (less derisive comments from my wife). I think my real need is getting more torque vs. more speed. To that end, would you recommend the shunt mod? I know I can buy a 36V 10ah battery that will plug and play for around $200 US. But I'm worried that the current gearing won't support the higher speeds that result. Not from a damage standpoint but, rather, just in being able to keep up with the pedals.
  7. Great advice. Thanks! Appreciate you posts on Cyclamatic mods! Haven't tried any yet but may at some point.
  8. The batteries I want to use are 3.7 amps so you are right; could be a fuse blower. I can regulate the voltage down. Need to think about regulating the current down as well?
  9. Hmm..how would it be different than the voltage/amperage that's being fed from the charger? My thought is to use a connector that's identical to the current charger connector, then positive to positive, negative to negative. But, seems like that would be to easy.....
  10. I have a question. Would it be possible to build a booster pack that plugged directly into the charging port of my 24v Cyclamatic battery? The 3 prong plugs are readily available. Recognizing that it wouldn't be as efficient as directly adding cells internally to the existing battery pack, it would be pretty easy to do. Specifically, I'd like to use my 36V Makita power tool battery, which I have a dedicated charger for, reduce the voltage to 25V or so using a voltage divider circuit or buck regulator, and hook the battery up to the 3 prong plug that fits the current Cyclamatic battery pack. Thanks!
  11. Thanks! Will do. I'm new to all of this but have been doing a bit of research. Sounds like your battery died a progressive death? I'm sure you've seen the threads discussing 36V battery packs that are a direct plug and play for the Cyclamatic. Sounds like the motor will easily handle that voltage and you get about a 25 to 50% speed increase. One confusing issue I've seen relative to charging the battery is if you leave the power on or off when charging. I've read both.
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