Walt11

I agree, if I was using the bike then perhaps I would chance it but I think under the circumstances I will go either with a new rear wheel motor or a steel fork as per your post below. Thanks again for your and Nealh's time taken in answering my questions!

That looks well engineered! Thanks for the photos.

Yes, I also considered getting another fork but would really need to be confident that it will not fail as it is my wife who will be using the bike most of the time. I was not sure what fork to consider but will take a look at the Suntour you suggested. Do you have a torque arm you can recommend for use with this fork?

Perfect, thanks!

Many thanks for taking the time to reply so quick and with so much detail. I have some homework to do I see! So if I get a motor as suggested with a 9-pin connector then I assume the current controller will work and along with that the rest of the kit as well?

Hi all, I am hoping someone here would have a quick answer for me. I have this kit installed on my wife's Decathlon bike - http://www.oxydrive.co.uk/electric-bike-kit/oxydrive-rc-11ah.html. I am now seeing signs of metal stress in the front fork dropouts and am concerned that this is going to fail soon. So what I am thinking of doing is moving the kit to the rear wheel, and so I am now trying to check if there is any particular limits as to what hub motor I can use assuming it is also 36V. I have asked Andrew if he could supply only a rear wheeled motor and am waiting for a reply. In the meantime I am wondering if there would be any issues with a 36V rear wheeled motor from another supplier if Andrew can't do? Am I over complicating this or missing anything?

Hi all. I bought a Cube Stereo Hybrid HPA 140 SL 27.5+ last year and have no regrets. I live in SW France on the border with Northern Spain so all my riding is in the hills / mountains. For big days out I carry a second battery which allows my to do some serious climbs, followed by equally big descents. Spec on the bike is first class and I love the Magura MT5 brakes. Very powerful brakes but with great modulation. But the standout feature of the bike is the 27.5 plus wheels which does a great job of translation torque into traction on steep climbs. But we have do not much in the way of muddy conditions so it may be different for those of you riding in the UK winters. I also often ride sandy trails in the forests near the coast and again that is where the plus tyres at a low pressure really shine.

Just a quick update on the issue I had. There was a problem with the hall sensor in the motor. Other than the delay in getting hold of Andrew all is good and the bike is back in action with a new motor. Thanks to Andrew for sorting this out for me.

I have gone and checked and the guide line is right up against the other side of the connector. I have also removed the connector, checked all the pins are nice and straight, lined up the arrows on both sides and connected it up again. The two connectors are again seated tightly and the guide line barely visible. I cannot test the throttle as I have not installed it, but if will help can do so?

I have checked and the disc is about that distance from the sensor. Since I first installed the kit (and it worked) I have not touched the disc or the sensor, Both are also firmly in place. I would agree that the battery is not the cause. The motor connector I have unplugged and the reconnected all the way back to the controller. I have done the same with all the other cables. I have also consider the brakes as a possible cause and even disconnected the brake cut-off cables. I have also tested the bike on a stand to be sure the brakes are not touched at all. But I cannot confirm or rule out damage to the wires. I did mind this guidance re cable ties in the installation document and tried to be gentle with the cable ties. As an aside I used to work a lot with fragile data cabling, some of it fiber-optic, so have seen the damage a tight bend-radius or cable tie can cause

Hi there, Thanks for the very quick response and apologies for the lack of information. The display is working fine and remains on without problems. The battery is working fine - well it switches on, the integrated rear light works and the display remains on. The PAS sensor light remains on, though at times I have noticed that it can intermittently turn off for a few seconds. Not sure if I have missed anything?

Hi all, First post but I have been visiting here for some time now and found some real useful information. I have bought an RC kit about 6 weeks ago and fitted it on my wife's Decathlon B-Twin city bike. It was very easy to fit and I was pleased to find that on the left hand side of the BB there was enough space to fit the PAS disc. Everything else was really easy to fit - I just had to file the fork dropouts a bit but in all the entire process took about 2 hours from start to finish. At first the kit worked fine and did everything I expected. it appears to be a real quality kit and is well thought out. But after about 2-3 weeks the motor started to turn off, either that or there is something else causing a loss of power to the motor. So I have completed whatever diagnostics I can think off, there are no error messages on the display console, I have charged the battery fully, the PAS sensor light is on, removed and reconnected all cables and just cannot see what could be the issue. There is no sound or any indication that the motor is under power. I have tried calling Oxydrive, emailed them and also used the contact form on their website. This was over a 3 week period and unfortunately have had no reply. So at this point I wonder if anyone could suggest anything else I could do to troubleshoot this issue? Thanks!