Timbo47

Thanks, I think I'd prefer to go tubeless... but it's 30 years since I last changed a bike tyre/tube so I could do with a little more advice please... can you tell if there's a tube in without removing the tyre? Assuming there are tubes present, how do you convert to tubeless and what items are needed? I'm seeing rim strips, gorilla tape, special valves, enlarging of valve holes etc, I just don't know what applies to my wheels/tyres which I thought were supposed to be tubeless types already. I probably sound like a complete dumbass but I'm technically minded and keen to learn all aspects of maintenance and repair etc.

Thanks. In that case, should we leave them as they are or remove/replace the tubes? (I've read that tubes fitted by manufacturers are not very suitable) Either way, what kind of repair kit and tools do we need to carry in case of a puncture?

Finally took delivery of a 2017 stereo 160 race and access wls pro for the missus. But alas... true to my unlucky form with mail order stuff, the access came with frozen forks. Hats off to Infinity Cube bikes Durham who sent a man with a van 200 miles to replace it with a new bike within 2 days. Now, looking forward to some long distance mtb'ing in Wales, I'm concerned about punctures. As a complete newbie unfamiliar with tubeless technology and terminology, I'm unsure about what type of pump and tools I need to carry in case of deflation of the Schwalbe Hans Dampf and Rapid Rob/Tough Tom tyres on our bikes. Also, what maintenance is needed with regard to sealant etc and how to fit and remove them? I've done some googling but found only conficting and confusing info, so some pointers would be greatly appreciated please!

I've considered Haibike but I figured the junior bike with 24" wheels and speed restriction might be a little too small, also certain comments made on these forums have swayed me towards the other brands. I do have one question... I found a retailer who has some good deals on 2016 Cubes at the moment. There's a HPA120 Race, a 140 Race and a 160 Race from £2520 to £2772. Is there any reason I shouldn't go for the 160 considering the fairly small extra cost compared to the other 2?

Thanks Chris... you're right and I'd love her to have full sus, but her small size (4'11" and 24" inside leg) means she can't stand over the top tube on anything bigger than a 14" frame hardtail. Also a womens specific bike would help as she also has a fairly short reach for her height, so it seems that there's nothing available that will fit her properly except the Access WLS.

I've ridden a Specialized Turbo Evo for 10 minutes, that's my only experience on an e-bike as yet. As for dealers, there's not much choice where we're shortly moving to (near Porthmadog in North Wales) and in that area don't seem to list the bikes we want, so I guess I'll have to order online from one of the major retailers and settle for a long drive if there are issues. Looks like I'll be going for a Cube Access WLS 500 for the wife and either Scott 720 or Cube Stereo 120/140 for myself, any suggestions as to the best place to buy these?

Thanks D8veh. To explain... I decided on full suspension because most of my riding will be on mountain trails and, as my skill level increases, I'll be tackling much rougher terrain and over long distances, so full sus seems a good idea. Plus, I'd rather not have to upgrade at a later date so I've gone for the highest specs I can afford.

Thanks Rob, it's not so much a brand choice but rather how they compare specification wise... seems to me that KTM may offer slightly lower spec'd components for the price when compared to the others?

Thanks to helpful advice from kind folks on here and much research, I now know pretty much what I need but, like many newbies I suspect, I'm still having trouble deciding exactly which make/model to go for on what for me is a major purchase. I'm not asking anyone to state 'which bike is best' of course, but I could really do with some advice please on the pros/cons of what's available in my price range... budget: £2800 to £3,300'ish requirements: dual suspension, 500Wh battery, 27.5", 17" frame, crank drive (Yamaha or Bosch CX 75nm) Options I'm currently considering: KTM Macina Lycan 27 CX500 Scott e-spark 720 Cube Stereo Hybrid 120/140 HPA 500 Looking a reviews etc, KTM seem to have the edge in quality but I think the equipment spec is a little lower than others of the same price. I could be wrong as I'm not that clued up on component specs, but it has Continental tyres and I think a lower spec of shox than others of similar price. All comments very gratefully received, and suggestions if there are other options I haven't thought of. Thanks!

I'm more confused now than before I posted! I thought that spending over £2k would get me a bike that goes up hills with relative ease (in pedal assist mode) and also one that won't fall apart! £2k is a lot of money for a bike, can anyone suggest a manufacturer or two who makes bikes that don't fall apart and don't look like something from the 60's? £2,300 is my max budget. I don't really need full suspension as I won't be riding on what you might call extreme terrain, or doing fast down-hill runs etc, just leisure use with hills and sometimes a little rougher than your average cycle path.

Thanks but it's fine, I'm aware that 250w is the max allowed legally on the road, the 500 would only be used in off-road, no people places. I guess what I am asking here is are 250w bikes capable of pulling up a steep hill without pedalling if it becomes necessary (I have a knee that sometimes fails without warning). Also all the 'reputable' manufacturers, selling what I presume are better quality bikes over £2K, seem to have crank motors. Would the same size motor apply more torque at the wheel than a hub type due to the gearing advantage? Basically, is it worth spending the extra £500 for a Bosch/Yamaha crank motor setup over the cheaper hub types? Regarding style and quality, the Haibike range looks to be way ahead of the rest.

How did this happen? Battery get wet inside? I thought those things were sealed... or did sand somehow cause this but, if you shouldn't run an ebike on the beach, why do they make fatbikes and advertise them specifically for use on sand dunes, snow and mud?

We'd prefer out of the box bikes, rather than converting. Torque-sensor is probably best, since we do want the excercise, but it would be nice to have a throttle on occasion when too tired to get up the hill! Our longest journeys will be off-road, with a short daily on-road run of about 5 miles. For myself, a 500w motor would be nice for the occasional blast along a deserted beach.

Thanks... we're both around 147lbs

Hi Folks... I'm totally new to the world of e-bikes and in dire need of some sound advice please. I'm 47 and 5'7" and my better half is 4'11", we're moving to N.Wales and would love to have a pair of e-bikes that will help us get up some of the mountainous terrain for some much needed excercise and sight-seeing. The GTECH bike is what sparked my interest in e-bikes originally, but I soon realised it was pretty far removed from the spec that we need. Options for my wife seem quote limited due to her hobbit-like proportions, and I'm confused as to whether 250w motors with around 400-500Kwh batteries are strong enough to go several miles up some fairly serious inclines. Also I'm unsure if crank drive as opposed to hub makes a 250w more capable of achieving this, or if a 500w would be needed in any case. There don't seem to be many 500w options except for the Volt Bigfoot, which looks like it would be great for off-road mountains and sand dunes etc. Shimano steps would be ideal for the missus as she's not particularly keen on using manual multi-gear setups, but it's not essential. All advice and any suggestions would be very much appreciated, as after researching several manufacturers offerings I feel quite lost in the wilderness of available e-bike options and specifications. Thanks!