CreativeSource

Will do Nealh, and thank you for all your help. I continue to learn more every day. My Wife is disabled and only ever uses the throttle sparingly, and 99% of the time She's in PAS level 1. We did 30 miles on the new pack in hilly north Dorset at the weekend, before I dialled back C5 today. it performed brilliantly, and the pack did not get warm, very strange? But with all you guys have said on this subject I have taken the above measures ie: dialled down C5 to help the pack. Again, many thanks Daron

I can lower the current from the controller to the battery via the C5 setting on the KT controller. I've also obviously removed the Re-gen function also in the C settings. 1) But in My defence, 15amp rated current, 30a max (controller) 2) 20amp rated current, 25-30amp max (Battery) you can see why most of us would believe this was a good match, including the seller when I asked him this question several times.

Thanks for the reply. The Re-gen braking is switched on/off via the KT3 LCD, It as levels rated 0-5. 0 being off, and 1 giving the most Re-gen charge back to the pack, but not the most braking power, if that makes sense? It does to Me. Level 1) being maximum charge but little help braking. Level 5) being maximum braking (in fact dangerous) and very little charge

I understand what you're saying and completely take it on board, thank you. But could you possibly give Me an answer to one of My possible theories also? (Re-gen braking) The 1st pack was charged full, then (off the bike) I turned the pack key (on) it then charged for another hour? Then My wife braked in the first 20 meters, could this of overcharged, and then tripped the BMS?

I certainly do not think it is immoral to ask for a replacement pack? You have to remember, not all of us are as technically minded as you guys. I've learned a great deal in a couple of years about this stuff, but do not proclaim to be an expert, that's why I'm asking for advice. This pack is rated on the sellers eBay site has good for 1000watt ebikes, and both the current ratings on the pack, and controller seem to match up from My perspective. I even asked him all this numerous times in our enquiries? But if indeed this is the reason for the failure of pack 1, then I can always turn the controller current down in the KT3 LCD... Yes?

The thing is Nealh, when the 1st pack wouldn't power up the LCD, I replaced the fuse immediately - no good, then I simply tried one of our 36v silverfish packs in the bike, it powered up immediately? So I believe fuse or faulty wire on the bike is to be discarded. And indeed the new replacement pack has now done 100 miles with no problems? That's why I'm trying desperately to discount one or both My theories at the top of the thread as the causes for the pack dying. I certainly take on board what you're saying about the pack, and controller rating being a tad tight, but minus (no Re-gen, and charging with key turned on) this time, the 2nd pack is performing fine?

I believe the controller to be a KT 48v 1000w rated current 15A, maximum current 30+1A The battery BMS is rated at Continuous discharge current 20A. Peak discharge current 25A - 30A. May I just add, We now have a replacement pack from the same seller, this pack has so far done 100 miles with no issues, the only 2 things I've done differently are the 2 theories at the top of the thread. We've had ebikes since 2016, We have 8 batteries, and never had a problem with any of them. But We have with this one hence why I'm trying desperately to find the reasons so it doesn't happen again.

It just died on My wife after about 20 meters, the lights on the pack were indicating a full charge, and indeed it was fully charged, but would not power up the KT3 LCD display, so I tried one of our 36v freego packs just to rule out any other possible cause, this pack turned everything on immediately, so now it all pointed to a faulty 48v pack. The seller said the BMS had failed, but I think he may of just been quoting my theory of what I think happened. I believe the controller to be a KT 48v 1000w rated current 15A, maximum current 30+1A The battery BMS is rated at Continuous discharge current 20A. Peak discharge current 25A - 30A.

It's a generic 48v 15ah silverfish/whitebait pack from eBay. And it's My Wife's converted freego hawk

Hi guys Could anyone give Me some possible theories to why a brand new battery failed after just 2 weeks (30miles) I have 2 possible culprits 1) Re-gen braking from the KT 48v 30amp controller? 2) charged battery off the bike (key in off position) until full, then turn key to (on position) and charge for another hour. Maybe one of these actions tripped the BMS? Or maybe a combination of both the above? I have a new replacement battery now, but I'm very nervous of this happening again. Some advice would be very helpful indeed as I'd love to turn the Re-gen back on, and not have to send this battery back also Thanks in advance Daron

Thanks Nealh I Really appreciate your help on this matter.

Thanks very much for the above information Nealh. I will certainly try that method. Could I just ask you though, when the charger shuts off at 53.6v (key in off position, and off the bike) if I then put key in ON position (still off the bike) it charges to 54.2v. Should I try your method with key switched off? Or key switched ON? Cheers Nealh

Hi there Yes the KT LCD 3 on the bike reads 53.6v hot off the charger. It also reads 53.6v via 2 different digital multimeters via the battery jacks hot off the charger. The battery is always charged in the office, and not on the bike. The bike is 30 meters away in the shed. So with that in mind, the charger switches off at 53.6v, but then charges for another hour if I turn the battery key on? (Still off the bike) A) is this safe for the battery as it's the only way to get the voltage somewhere near 54.6v B) is 53.6v hot off the charger acceptable for a (new?) Battery? Many thanks again guys

Hi guys I've just purchased a 48v 15ah silverfish battery pack from eBay, 2 questions if I may. Q 1) it only reads 53.6v hot off the charger, and not 54.6v. is this okay? or does this need to go back? Q 2) with the battery off the bike and key switched off, the charger stops charging at 53.6v, however, if I then switch the key to the on position, (still off the bike) it continues to charge for a further 45 minutes to an hour, is it safe to charge this way? As seems to be the only way to get it to around 54v many thanks in advance Daron

But at least you wouldn't run out of Battery, oh, and how heavy is your charger? Most people take a rucksack, and some take panniers, this would be a network primarily for long rides and adventures, and like I said before, a safety net, (no more range anxiety) You wouldn't need them for normal length rides. Maybe you should think carefully about taking water with you on your next ride if you're so worried about a little extra weight? Plenty of places to get water from after all