billym1967

Ok thanks

I don't have a battery empty case

It's an eagle with internal battery in rear uses a tranz x battery type

Ho all. Recently bought one. But the battery has been removed from case along with bms. I've wired another battery in that powers it but battery indicator on screen shows 0. Guessing the bms tells the bike the battery info. Anyone know where I can get a bms board from or is there a way round it.

I've got a few out with the delivery drivers, the bak 2900mah, so there getting a good test lol. I've started using 21700 a bit more because there's cases now, bit bigger but they work. But getting cells this year have been a nightmare. Last year this time 35e were dropping in price. I bought 5000 of them. No movement this year yet. I was looking at the listen,, but none in stock were I get my cells

been trying BAK for the last few month, due to the massive shortage and price increase on other cells, todate there looking ok. but time will tell.

Was half a sleep still when I wrote it, but my point was if you going to try and test a pack with a standard charger, you have to start from the cells being very low, so even at 2.8 that's 37v. Most peeps never go that low, so testing capacity with a standard charger in never that accurate.

I say on your test your getting 22ah knowing how ebikes use power, and guessing you don't fully flat the pack, 22ah form a 25ah is a good result

Hi, you carnt test the capacity of a battery pack that way with a 2a charger, to many factors don't give an accurate result. Couple of quick things are is your charger accurate. As in a 48v battery can fully charge to 54.4v. If yours is only hitting 54.1v then that .3v can drop capacity. Packs also don't balance 100% unlike a single cell. You need to check on a proper tester that gives you a read out. Also remember really on a 48v you need to test from 34v to 54.4v to get a real capacity.

To be honest, I have enough work already gonna expand next year, but need a bigger unit and help been a member on here a while, but rarely find the time to call in and read posts. But always will try and help if anyone pms me, and yes spot on with boosh, there making it impossible to fix. I opened some recently to salvage cells. Was shock on the water damage I found. But I've open 100s of packs, and some are quite scary inside.

i tend not to, some off the older ones can be re-celled but most boosh stuff is made with such complicated BMS boards, that there a night mare. i build work horse batteries, plan simple good quality. made to power a motor. they dont need to be complicated. sorry canrt help

Hi all, just came across this thread while surfing the Internet for something. Just to say I'm eequalspower, in Durham. I sell a few packs on ebay but mainly by word of mouth. Been building for over 3 years. I don't buy China packs in and re liable them as UK. All my packs are made by me with cells from nkon. So please be assured eequalspower is legit. I also do conversions and build and sell ebikes, bafang. If a battery is cheap then there's a reason for that.

as luck may have it, i still have a 1000w motor unchanged so that could help. just may have to figure how to save the programme on that and put it back in the other lol

i also dont have the orginal 48v software to switch back either.

its a really strange one lol i went through the sftware but found nothing to change the throttle settings, and as said the update was just a file sent by the supplyer, quick load to software and hit reprogramme and done.