Mark Lester

i am buying a new crank because it leaks grease into the clutch and i now cant get the securing clip off as both eyes came off. a chain ring for a shimano 11 speed has alternate facing teeth. yes the entire groupset bar the crank wheel is official shimano. I will ring darren tommorow morning. and thanks.

thanks steve. sorry about the PS, yes that was my previous adventure trying to get to the clutch. it was full of thick grease and shouldnt have been, so this crank was poorly to start with I think. you cant run a shimano 11 speed chain on a standard chain ring. the consensus I am getting is that not only do you not want a thin chain like that, you should really get a special extra strong ebike one and stick to standard gears, 7 is enough. I dont entirely like this purely from a pimping point of view, that 11 speed cassette is a genuine piece of art work, but I've ordered a new crank and we'll go with what we've got and I'll take further counsel. I am slowly slowly, dont like going over 15mph really, even down hill I will only go at 20 if its like a runway. But I literally want to ride up the Stelvio pass on this thing if I can get it to work well enough to ride around this place a bit.

humf, well OK then, I have a 7 speed already, i was having probs indexing the thing to get the big wheel but thats cos I am learning everything. But you are telling me this fancy pants chain wont work, and indeed I should get a proper ebike one anyway. mucho obligo. I will just get the crank then.

PPS, I just got a cheapy cassette so have been able to run about, but now we are down we may as well do it right, you do need a proper fat rear cassette when it goes a bit alpe d'huez.

One of my problems was that I had got a fancy pants 11 speed cassette and the special shimano chain obviously, a normal one wont hold on the cassette and will doubtless damage it. But then I realized why the chain was breaking every time i went up a decent hill, and then even getting to the end of the road. A standard chain ring will just rip it apart. So I need the special chain ring with the alternate facing teeth, and I presume the adapter, either 4 or 5 bolts depending on the chain ring I find. I am having trouble finding such a chain ring, I've seen a 36T which i am cert has these teeth, but I am being told and I think I need 46. There are these nice leka ones but I am worried they dont work, but I just read someones blog and he never mentioned any of this. Is anyone running a fancy shimano 11 speed chain on a bafang mid, and if so what chain ring have you got. PS. the clutch got gunged up again, and I then saw I had broken the eyes off the clip ring, I guess they are only really to be used once, but its leaking anyway, and i screwed the magnetic ring and hence the pedal assist, so I am getting a new crank unit, at least you can do all this without having to take the whole thing off which is an utter pain with the wires and making sure you put her back exactly where she was last time.

well yes, but then we've a problem, its only done 400 miles. its just going to happen again. at least we can get in and out and i have a spare but i am presumably losing a seal somewhere.

I am fairly sure the locking teeth on this clutch will only go on one way anyway, which is reassuring. My chum thinks it should go back like it looked, i.e with grease on. I am suggesting my yellow bike grease as a compromise. I need to go get a replacement 5th screw before we put it back together anyway and will pick up some silicone spray from wilko.

i got a new ring. i will clean this one up, its full of this thick grease btw, which yes, doesnt help much. i am trying to build a touring saloon, off road is anything you could physically get a wheelchair along, e.g. tow paths, decent bridle paths.I put 35mm tyres on but along with the shed load of stuff on the back we're talking about managing 10mph for hours on end on the canal network.

i think it wlil go either way, but i am not putting this back together just yet. will bike grease do or do i need to get some special stuff ?.

i guess the feet want to be pointing against my direction of pedal, which is anti clockwise as we look at it, so the pawls want to be pointing clockwise. btw, as diagnosed, the problem is a sticky pawl. one of them isnt as easy going as the other two. i'm sure its a tiny bit of sand.

ok we're in, my rubber mallet did the job. my only problem now is i took the clutch ring out, and now cant remember which direction the bugger goes!

car shop got the 5th bolt out of this large gear wheel. i was expecting the cover/housing of the clutch to just come off now. i cant find any vids of this bit, i will examine and try to lever it out.

I dropped it off at my friendly car repair guys, he said he'd get it out so here's hoping. Also, I forgot to report that there were no seals between the two locking nuts. Once I got the damned seal thing off the front it was just a very tight locking nut (may be the circlip tool i have now would have done that) and then a second one that came straight off, no intermediate diaphragm things. Just sayin'.

i got the retaining ring off, and removed the plastic cover, and 4 of the 5 screws on the clutch housing proper, and i now have one last bolt that looks like its been drilled against the thread. well it aint moving. this is the last obstacle i think, *sob*. i will clean all the grease off, will penetrating fluid help ?

so we're down to a securing circular clip thing on the end of the shaft keeping the housing for the clutch secure. how the hell do you get those off, what's it called even https://www.dropbox.com/s/c5txae327bbw9wg/DSCF0074.JPG?dl=0

the locking nut is now visible, but it wasnt interested in a pair of long pliers, i have the special spanner tool and a new clutch ring on their way from shenzen but its going to be a few days still.

ok, we're in. it's a washer, you have to get a rubber mallet and a flat head screwdriver and bang away at the outer edge of the washer till it buckles. The voyage down the axle shaft continues, thanks to absolutely everyone for your moral support during these difficult times.

The photo in that article is indeed of a rubber seal like the picture you have posted of a seal about 1cm deep which I have seen removed on video. The build date on that is january of last year, mine is november and they have a track record of just changing things in secret. This is a steel washer, originally coated with about 2mm of rubber, secured by a sleeve. It does not, and indeed on none of the photos I have posted ever has had, any grease or sand or gunk or anything else, just bits of rubber that I have dutifully removed so we can see clearly. If all it was was a rubber bung it would have disintegrated days ago. I have just taken it to another engineer suggesting we drill holes in this and yank it out. He wasnt amused. Given that we dont actually have consensus yet on what this is, one of you "sees what you mean now", and that the new part isn't going to be here till next week, and I am total idiot armed with a few spanners, a set of hex keys and a diy drill, we should perhaps just hang on a second.

https://electricbike-blog.com/2016/07/12/bafang-completely-redesigns-the-bbs02-and-tells-no-one/ so we are officially screwed guys. I have a version B and nobody knows how to get in.

its not below the washer its the same level as, but anyway that ring around the spindle/axle is part of the spindle.

its part of the spindle, when i turn it that bit moves, its below the washer and will have had some rubber on it as part of this new regime and form a seal with the thin layer of rubber on the immovable washer system. the serial number is 1611266532 and its a BBS02B 48V500W. so does that mean made november last year ? I cleaned it some more, here's as good as i can get it https://www.dropbox.com/s/t4xsaavfpoggfa5/DSCF0072.JPG?dl=0 I am hoping Ms Alice can help out, I've already ordered the clutch thing.

ok, i used a bit of white spirit and its a bit cleaner https://www.dropbox.com/s/c2qrolelows3tkr/DSCF0064.JPG?dl=0 i think there some inner sleeve in it, that both fits over the top and also has a rim to keep the washer from moving, you can see this rim at the bottom of latest pic. i did point the drill at it. i need a smaller drill bit but if this is right it wont matter, we've got to get this washer securing inner sleeve thing off. i'll try the jam jar trick and white spirit for an hour and see if i can at least get you a nice shiney picture.

its not grease, its the rubber i have been trying to scrape and pull off.it was quite a thin amount, not like the thicker rubber ones. Ms Alice at green bike kit is talking to me cos she doesnt know if I have ordered the right lock nut tool ( I know I dont really need that) I sent her the pic. I will try and get the rest of this rubber off. Attacking it with a drill is scary, but she wont move.

that photograph suggests there is a ring that fits inside and over the top of the outer shaft that secures the washer. how we get that off i dont know, i cant get a fine blade under it.

I took it to a car repair place and told him it was a washer that should just lift off. He begged to differ. This is as far as i have got. It had rubber on it with 6 indents. I will wrap it up and send it to BGA and see what we can do https://www.dropbox.com/s/jrr9qm31et341pi/DSCF0061.JPG?dl=0