minexplorer

thanks bonzo i totally missed those when i had a look on ali express.looks right my ones are 36 teeth on the big gear wheel,yes theres no longer any markings on the motor.cheers

Hi i have an old ebike given to me,my wifes used for many years.despite doing nothing different it suddenly stopped working,stuttering and stopping. i immediately suspected the gears in the motor or hall sensors. the halls are fine,all reading 5v 0v alternately and 2.5v on back spinning the wheel. the 3 nylon gears seem to have all got one third of their circumference stripped/melted. if anyone can suggest why id love to know. its a pretty standard brushless rear hub. i souped it up to do 20-22 mph with a throttle and 18 amp controller 36v battery has just a single gear 16t cog. worked fine for years, its never had issues of overheating. been trying to get a set of 3 replacement gears but all i see everywhere is the type below. i also added some pictures of the motor and gear i have. if anyone can advise where these type can be sourced much thanks,also could this have just been years of honest wear and tear or a particular issue that needs to be addressed first. thanks anyone.

hi nealh. the battery will never be great if you remember the saga you helped me with a cpl years back. certainly i found i could adjust the charger to charge to a lower top voltage which helped stop the lower groups to stay close to those that could charge more fully if allowed. ive decided ill just use it for now as it stands rather than just bin it,even though thats a reduced range and efficiency. i can manually charge groups the mobile phone method you told me about years ago ,which i used . better to get a bit of use out of it. much thanks

thanks wheezyrider and nealh will get onto it with your instructions over next few days.batt def not charging without those wires

thanks nealh.so those balancing wires i need to repair. and wish id only snipped the 4 damaged ones ,going to be a real her working out which goes on what solder spot.are just that balancing and not what actually delivers the current to the cells during charging then. so i can at least charge the battery up as its very low now.is that right. just need get some juice in before any more damage.

to be honest all that happened was the battery started to have reduced range and not fully reaching 58.8v. after advice here i checked the cell voltages at the bms. 6 of the 14 were down. advised how to manually balance these with a mobile charger fitted with two pins. this worked ,brought them up but not quite to 4.2v. they varied around 4.05-4.1v. the battery still worked,just reduced milage,cutting out well above the LVC. at first it did restore the range reasonably well and start reaching the LVC,but it didnt last,wld go out of balance again after a cpl re charges. the seller electron cycles neglected to mention in their battery care leaflet .that it had to be switched ON to enter balancing mode. so for the entire 11 months i was using it ,it never had a balance. didnt discover this til i started having issues. Im considering re attaching the balancing wires ,giving it a full balance charge, bringing the low ones up manually to see if they have got worse and just accepting the reduced range if they still reach a reasonable voltage . i know they must be in the right order. The only reason i removed them is because i clumsily touched the multimeter probes and a few now need to have some shrink wrap put over the melted sheath,or replaced with new 24awg wire. Anyone think thats a Good /bad idea to try

thanks woosh,ive given up on the idea,way too complicated and more expensive for those spot welders than i imagined thought they were less than 50 quid ones ive seen for battery packs. was quoted 400 quid for a repair a year ago by a local battery center. cld buy a new one for that tho.

thanks mate im throwing in the towel after everything ive read. obviously not as easy as the teckie nerd teenager on a utube vid i saw years ago , made it seem. job lot of used laptop batteries transformed into a huge ebike battery wizzing around at 40mph

quite correct nealh prob not something others have any input to give. much thanks for all the time you spent on giving me such an informative reply. im going to pass on the idea after reading everything that you and other members have posted. SIGH 450 quid for a years use,euphoria to despair in 11 months. by comparison my 3 36v batteries of lower spec samsung cells ,all still good at 5-6 years age. i did alot of research on the best cell for a bbshd at the time and the 30Q was deemed a winner. electron cycles touted it as the best for bbshd. i cant understand why there arent tons of 30Q batt owners in the same boat ,if its as bad as ive since learned. Prehaps as i said back then, running it always to the LVC, hammering it a great deal on full power. And the biggi, electron cycles battery care instructions omitting to say it must be turned ON to enter balancing mode. 11 months of never balance charging inc they state an all important balance charge before first use. guess its a bin job now.

thanks for the advice mate you and all the others have convinced me to not even try.

Hi,sorry this may be long. ive moved this from the technical discussion forum, because it seems invisible to the main contributers who have helped me so much in the past.for which many thanks again. So this is further to a thread i posted back in feb 2020 battery needs repair.Havent used the bike for over a year because of the failing battery. Basically 3 an half years ago i got a bbshd kit and 52v batt from electron cycles.They advertised their samsung 30Q batt,as the best for the job. i learned much later the 30Q is crap,with issues after as little as 50 recycles.Ive verified the cells are definately genuine.After 11 months and 70 odd full recharges.I started getting battery failing to charge fully to 58.8v ,sagging LVC tripping at 47-48v usually due to an increased load,despite set at 41v. Tried maually balancing through the BMS with a mobile phone charger,but it soon got bad again. I stored the batt fully charged and havnt re charged in a year. today the cell groups read at the BMS 6x 3.77v ,5 x 3.48-3.61v and one each 3.16v, 2.98v, 2.28v. Thats with not having recharged. A repair back when was going to cost 400 odd.so i didnt bother. Now im thinking maybe i should buy a cheap battery spot welder thingy an make it a project to learn how to repair it myself. It seems likely theres many good cells and perhaps some half decent ones. Its a 450 quid loss now as it stands. even if i end up with a 48v 4P from originally 52v 5P better than nothing. I was going to strip down all the cells and charge them up a few at a time,with my e cig charger,to root out the bad. Does that sound feasible. Im puzzled over many things. Why when i understood a 52v was strings of 14 cells, i expected to see 5 parallels of 14 connected cells,yet they seem to be in sets of ten cells.These then are further connected to each other in a way i dont understand. So i understand the sensor ,balancing wires to the BMS are 10.13,14 in number depending on 36,48,52v. Does that means they read one cell in each parallel ? ,rather than all the cells in one parallel .Or have i got that all wrong.how does that work.i thought each parallel of 10,13 or 14 cells was seperate and then joined at the batterys pos/neg output terminal. Similar to my two 36v batteries on my bbs01. A 5P and a 6P their power cables joined to work as a 11P. Lastly i began to snip the connecting strip between two cells.Yet despite both being positive ends i got a flash of a short as if id touched the snips across a positive and negative. How on earth do you strip these down. i need to seperate all the cells dont i or connected good cells voltage will hide the bad ones ? The cells i tried to seperate were at the top left end in the picture,i dont understand the construction.the photo is high def so can be zoomed in clearly. Much thanks to anyone that can give me some education on these things. I dont want to just go it alone with a battery construction manual. i had to remove the balancing wires after clumsilly shorting them touching the probes. Thanks Andy

hi stuart. Obviously i wasnt going to attempt anything without some full guides on how to build batteries hence i used the title beginner need advice.just wanted some explanation of things that puzzeled me.as i thought it would be 5 sets of 14 cells.then those 5 sets connected. i imagine groups of 5 if a 5P battery 4 if a 4P ? but why then 10. i did put two battery packs on my bbs01 a 6P and 5P connected parallel,that seemed simple 11 all used at same time ,just in two containers. i just dont understand why the sets of 10,13,14 cells depending on if its 36v,48v or 52v are interconnected in a more complicated way than simply being seperate and just joined at point of the plus ,minus terminals. in the same way as the two bbs01 packs power cables are joined at a splitter. Anyway im just trying to salvage SOMETHING out of this mess. even if its just a 4P 48v from the best cells remaining. i havent got another 450 quid for a battery. this one has only had 70 odd full re charges. many cells should still be good.

Hi,sorry this may be long. So this is further to a thread i posted back in feb 2020 battery needs repair.Havent used the bike for over a year because of the failing battery. Basically 3 an half years ago i got a bbshd kit and 52v batt from electron cycles.They advertised their samsung 30Q batt,as the best for the job. i learned much later the 30Q is crap,with issues after as little as 50 recycles.Ive verified the cells are definately genuine.After 11 months and 70 odd full recharges.I started getting battery failing to charge fully to 58.8v ,LVC tripping at 47-48v usually due to an increased load,despite set at 41v. Tried maually balancing through the BMS with a mobile phone charger,but it soon got bad again. I stored the batt fully charged and havnt re charged in a year. today the cell groups read at the BMS 6x 3.77v ,5 x 3.48-3.61v and one each 3.16v, 2.98v, 2.28v. Thats with not having recharged. A repair back when was going to cost 400 odd.so i didnt bother. Now im thinking maybe i should buy a cheap battery spot welder thingy an make it a project to learn how to repair it myself. It seems likely theres 30 good cells and perhaps 25 more half decent ones. Its a 450 quid loss now as it stands. I was going to strip down all the cells and charge them up a few at a time,with my e cig charger,to root out the bad.Buy any i need to get a 5 parallel batt. Does that sound feasible. Im puzzled over many things. Why when i understood a 52v was strings of 14 cells, i expected to see 5 parallels of 14 connected cells,yet they seem to be in sets of ten cells.These then are further connected to each other seemingly randomly.Likewise the white wires going to the BMS seem to be attached randomly. Also i understand the sensor ,balancing wires to the BMS are 10.13,14 due to the number of cells in a string for 36,48,52v. But that means they must read one cell in each parallel doesnt it,rather than all the cells in one string .Or have i got that all wrong. Lastly i began to snip the connecting strip between two cells.Yet despite both being positive ends i got a flash of a short as if id touched the snips across a positive and negative. How on earth do you strip these down. Much thanks if anyone can give me some pointers. The cells i tried to seperate were at the top left end in the picture

how do u mean soundwave.i have the programming cable.but i thought you couldnt raise the factory controller above 30 amps....lol the missus knackered bikes 36v batt connected in series with my bbs01 s 2nd 36v thats in parallel, now that wld be something ,a bbshd with a 72v batt power. the factory 30amp controller can only take 52v i believe.