point5clue

Hi All, I installed a Swytch on my Mum's bike. Mum love's it, and blow me, after years of trying to persuade my wife to let me covert her bike without success, after one ride on my mum's bike she's sold. Thing is, her curvy ladies frame doesn't have a suitable point to mount a conventional downtube battery, or even a bottle type battery. (I'm talking about the bike here guys!) I've signed up for another Swytch drop, but last time it took 7 months from signing up to delivery. (not to mention its quite pricy for what it is, though nicely integrated) Are there any other handlebar mounted kits (or a kit with a bare battery that could live in a handlebar bag ?) that anyone could recommend ?

In the end I managed to get a couple of linked cable ties around it - though it tapers in that area, there was a lug for the cable management on the far side underneath which stops it from slipping too far, and with a bit of give from the foam pad it could be tightened up well enough. No holes drilled and no molten metal !

I’m not a welder but a bracket fixed to the bolt is well within my capabilities. I will have a play. Thanks for all the helpfull suggestions people

Hi Neal, The chain stay tapers in quite severely at the critical point so it is tilted away from the plane of the ring. It didn't seem to operate reliably, but it might be worth having another go. It was also fouling the kick stand - if that was the only issue I could perhaps get a new kickstand that connects to the chain stay.

Hi All, I'm converting my Mum's Islabike Joni. Its the perfect bike for her has it has a super-low step through. However this does mean that it is very thick tubing around the bottom bracket because there is no crossbar. Its currently stuck on with two self-adhesive foam pads. There is no obvious way to cable-tie it on - lots of angles and the diameter of the tubing reduces in that area so anything attached slips as it is tightened up. Any ideas for a good fixing method? I'm reluctant to drill holes unless TINA

The Yose Power 350W rear kit with a 13Ah battery is only £352 including delivery. I suspect with BMS the price would not include a tax demand from the courier so may be more expensive, and the integration is all at my risk. Any experience of Yosepower and demands for extra money along the chain ?

Hi All, I started out with a Q100C rear wheel with a S06S/S-LCD6 controller, but upgraded to a Q128C for a bit more speed. This was a few years ago now. Everything has been great and I couldn't be more pleased with the set up. I had the bare Q128 motor build into a wheel by my excellent local bike shop so had the Q100 ready to go - always hoping to persuade my wife to let me tackle her bike. Its only taken a few years, but I finally have the go ahead (one tiny benefit of petrol at near £2/L) So, firstly a sanity check - is buying the rest of the components to work with the motor sensible or would it be better to get a full conversion kit ? I've created shopping list on bmsbattery dot com - this was where I bought most of the previous items - is this still recommended ? - is getting the battery from BMS a good idea ? - do I need a cable from the battery to the controller ? - can I use the existing charger I have with this battery (can't see what sort of socket this battery has) hoping it will fit my 2.5mm jack? - anything else I'm missing ? SHOPPING CART S06S 250Watts Torque Simulation Sine Wave Controller £18.18 S-LCD6 LCD Meter for S-Series Controllers £26.52 Color: Black HWBS - Hidden Wire Brake Sensor 1pcs £4.55 Dual Hall Sensor D12 Signals Easy Installation PAS £5.30 Assemble: Left 36V10AH/11.6AH/14AH Hailong-II Bottle Battery Pack £125.02 Cells / Capacity: 2.5AH High C-Rate / 10AH Q-Series Motor Cable £3.79

Just to close off the thread - I did indeed contact Jimmy - it took me a while to decide (waiting to be sure I still had a job to cycle to eventually) but I now have a fully re-celled battery returned to me £375 including collection and return. I did a 'range test' on my regular commute and the capacity seems at least as good it was originally. I have now put in a once a month calendar reminder to check the battery !!!!!!!

For what its worth 0.81, .68, .83, .75, .66, .62, .81, .85, .85, .87 So I'm guessing that a confirmed kill on this pack. You mention re-celling - is that something I'd do myself or send it off ?

Is that the connector with all the white wires ? Thankyou for everyone's help by the way - its appreciated.

A couple of the cells I can reach either end on read 0.6V

Yes, just checked with another meter - same. I've taken the case apart - is there anything else worth checking ?

Yes, same from the terminals - again with or without the switch on

Sorry took a while to find the multimeter and untangle the leads in the frame bag. 90mV - this is the same with or without the battery switch on ?

Hi All, I left the bike with about 50pc SoC, but coming back to the bike after a much longer than expected break I saw that I had left the charger lead in (I'd think I'd given it a just a little top up and must have just switched it off at the plug). I could easily be 6 months - I had a lot going on in my life at the time! Its a 36V 17Ah battery - I'm not sure if the link will work for others, but it still shows for me. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B071GN86HS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Maybe it would have died anyway over that amount of time, but I wonder if the charger has been slowly draining it? I say its not charging - the controller unit won't switch on, with or without the charger lead in, and the light on the charger stays green when I plug it in. I have a basic multimeter, and various security screwdriver bits, so would be happy to open it up if anyone knowledgable would have the patience to guide me.