NewtSoup

It does use resin pads.. I will replace them ASAP

shame because the front are fine and make no noise and are on sintered pads too

Thank you for that. I will change them both asap.

I will sand down the rotors tomorrow as I have enough pocket change to get some wet and dry carborundum paper. I may sand the pads for the hell of it too and get a soft cloth in the caliper to get rid of as much pad dust as possible. I'd do it now but I've settled into a couple of beers for the evening.

mmm not really, once they're noisy they'll be noisy the next day too. It's like their collecting sand in them and runnign it between the pads. I'm starting to think i have a bad pad or two on the back brake and it's slowly breaking down. Wednesday I will be able to go to halfords and get a pair of shimano pads and I will replace them again Then if they're still noisy I will see if halfords can fix it. I can't replace the pads sooner because I lost my bank card and the new one wont arrive until wednesday.

For your amusement - Halfords Website right now: Generic Error The store is currently experiencing problems. Try again later. Try clicking here to return to the page you came from. We apologise for any inconvenience.

I've reassembled the bike and put the pads back in - lo and behold the brakes a silent again beyond the normal hiss of pads being applied to disc. It won't last long though The calipers / brakes are Shimano M315 front and back. 160mm Centrelock Rotors (whatever centre lock means )

It does look like it doesn't it? But there isn't one, not on either side. just a different shade of polishing by the pad.

The ones I chose were made my Mexital to fit my calipers. I bought the sintered ones as they are supposed to last longer and I do a LOT of miles. I have found the genuine Shimano pads for my calipers on Amazon. They cost a bit more but probably better.

the black on my hands is just brake dust, it's not oily

Pics of the rotor and the pads in case you can see anything untoward

These are actually brand new pads. They've done less than 500miles. They've been doing it since a few hours after I put them in. I will replace them again if I have to. It's possible wayward chain lube got on them but would that make them make a grinding noise?

My pistons return fine I get no twittering of pads on disks. However, When I pull the rear brake lever it sounds like I'm grinding metal on metal except I'm not. If I remove the wheel and inspect the pads they have plenty of material on them and they look just like slightly used pads. Then when I put them back in the rear brake will be silent and brake nicely for the next hour or so and then it slowly goes back to sound like I'm running gravel through it. I have loosened the two mounting bolts, applied the brake and re-tightened them and this seems to have improved it a a little but not much. Also If I douse it liberally with disk brake cleaning spray it's silent for a while before going back to the grinding noise. Any ideas what could be causing this?

Hey there, OP here. So sorry to hear about your troubles. I had 2 new motors, the one that came with my bike burned out in the workshop, the second came from a batch of new motors which I was told was designed to fix the issue - it didn't. At least Halfords are now admitting there is a problem. If you do go for a new bike from them definitely go for the Bosch Powered Crossfuse - I have put 7000 miles on mine now since I've had it with no issues beyond wearing brake pads out. I'm so confident in it I bought a second battery ( bosch batteries are expensive! ) It's my main work horse and I love it. Secondly the crossfuse is better built. The cross fire uses standard guage spokes which are not really up to the torque of the electric motor. The crossfuse however has thicker ones, also the mid drive makes the motor more efficient on battery life, the head-stock bearings on the fuse are better quality too. The whole thing is just better.

Then I sincerely hope that for the sake of the sanity of staff and customers alike that they've ironed out he kinks.

That's good value for the Crossfuse at the moment then. I paid £1600 for mine but then they put the price up to £1800.

I think that was true a while ago. Now they all seem to know it. At least they do in both Leicester stores where I became VERY well known

Don't worry, it's not your fault. This thread has grown somewhat the TLDR version is The Halfords Suntour system is fundamentally flawed. Halfords will tell you it's overheating - This is BS and they know it. Halfords are about to give the new Generation of Crossfire all new electronics. I found out about the new generation of crossfire getting new electronics from a Halfords employee two weeks ago. So this is new info I can add to the thread The Cross Fuse is a very competent bike and seems to be made of better quality components than the Cross Fire. I have now put 6000 miles on one with no issues. It does cost a bit more though £1800 compared to the £1300 for the Crossfire.

Crossfuse hands down. it's superior in every way. The mid drive runs through the gears resulting in a more efficient use of battery power.

I'm sorry to say there is no solution - the Crossfire Suntour system appears to be fundamentally flawed. Halfords just tell you it's overheating and not to pedal so hard (which is bizarre as the harder you pedal the more work you're putting in compared to the motor so you're alleviating load on the motor ). If you're still within warranty I would suggest going back to halfords and telling them about the problem. I'm sure you have done this already. This time also tell them that you've researched on the internet and spoken to other Suntour owners and that's it's a problem with all Suntour bikes and that you're no longer happy with your purchase as it's not fit for purpose if you have to stop for a few minutes every couple of miles. They won't give you a refund but they will give you store credit on a replacement bike - this is what they did for me. I then paid a little extra to get the cross fuse with the mid drive motor and I have never looked back ( except when checking for traffic of course ). I've put over 5000 miles on my bosch system and not had a problem. I'm so confident in it that I have bought a second battery for it. I know it's more money but it's very much worth the extra. I'm sorry to disappoint you with the lack of an actual solution to your ( and many others' ) problem.

I had one of these bikes - they are trash. Avoid anything with a Suntour power system. I got the CrossFuse which uses a Bosch system and it's way way better. As for the cutting out you can restore the battery to power by pressing the battery button. Ask the seller if they have the charger for it. If they have "misplaced" the keys and the charger then it's likely not legit.

Deep!

That will be in then. My display is Purion.

Mine is a newer bosch I believe. The bike only came out a year ago. It's using the low end Purion controller. It shows battery level in bars and has estimated range remaining ( in whole miles ) trip ( in whole miles ) and total distance in.. you guessed it - whole miles. I'd rather know to the nearest 10th what my trip is but there we go. Interestingly enough the blurb says that the purion system can take a dual battery. I will look into the dual battery upgrade ( or just buy a second and carry it with me ).

I shall have a mess around on that - on mine there is no reset button. You have to hold down the +/- buttons together for 5 seconds to reset the trip. This doesn't affect the displayed range. I need to find my meter and measure the voltage too. I have measured the voltage. There are two connections marked + and - so I put my meter across those on the 200v range. It measures a big fat 0V fully charged. This means that the battery produces no output across those pins without it being installed in the bike. However, today it thinks it h as 34 miles in it which is more where I'm used to so I'm not going to worry any more. My local dealer have said they will also see what they can do about giving me dealer inside information on the system along with diagnostic software