willcee

I'm unsure about the Vendetta but recently I did a CARRERA Kracken And had a couple of issues with its install.. had to get a machine shop to make up a spacer for the chainwheel as it was too neat to the flared out chainstays, and that was after a couple of hours smoothing a path through the bracket itself to allow passage through for the Bafang motor .. the threading was very high on the drive side right into the central area.. I had issues later when I sold it without the Bafang kit rebuilding it back to standard for a friends young fella rethreading the std cartridge bracket back in again.. but I got it sorted.. there are a few frames that pose difficulty, especially any that have the dreaded internal cabling and swelling the shell to allow hoses and full cables through.. avoid them cause neither TDZ or Bafang will insert.. the one I had issues with was a Whyte.. Suffolk 2020 model..will

While I totally understand your respect for the frame RIV nuts are the way forward for any heavy centrally mounted battery, I have now modded several with 2 extra bolts on each lower base with a strap over the whole affair and its held very tightly , my reasons are safety and our extremely poor road surfaces and the fact that several of my friends for whom I built machines have forgotten to lock their battery on, dispensed with the straps that i supplied and 2 of them have had to have, 1, a new battery and 2, a new casing and that meant sending a battery and getting it back again plus the actual repair or replacement cost.. its made my eyes water.. The last 36 v battery I fitted on a new Alloy Ridley frameset none of the base plate 2 holes would line up suitably with the bottlecage Riv inserts on the frame, So we ended up with 5 holes.. in a straight line... as if we had used the supplied holes the battery end would be jammed up tight at the downtube before it locked into place and transmitted the power.. they are hidden and even if at some time in the distant future this machine is returned to a push bike some nice buttonheaded allen bolts will dress it OK..will

I had a home brew version of this on my 3 rd build, but since then i have been relying of strapping the battery obviously locked on the slide with 3 straps, i bought some on Amazon for suitcase closure.. short one which are adjustable and have click fit buckles.. and since then have acquired a RIV nut tool and proper sized bottle cage RIV nuts.. and added two more bosses for the slide bracket to attached more securely , yet retain one strap, why, because a story from my battery builder, he had just built a hybrid for a friends teenage son the eldest of the brood and a fast cyclist... while flying low and blind he hit a bump in the dark, battery jumped off the rails and 400quid went for a tumble into several expensive pieces on the tarmac. the seller reckoned he had in a rush to get the young fella away not fitted the battery securely. so he stood another battery build...better safe than sorry.. will

well getting on with the build , just waiting for the hollowtech dedicated PAS kit so we can see what it gives at the pedals but running on a thumb throttle yesterday a Gain owner my chum had it at 22.5 on level 3 max [not in his Gain experience of perhaps 2.5 k miles cutting out]on the Bafang contoller 850 display adjusted down to 3 levels and speed unlimited with a wind on his back and turned into a 25 mph wind 16.5 on way home.. so looks good, what I hope is that this hub is not limited in the windings and some knowledgeable people say it may well be approaching the limit.. will

thanks for your reply, as a novice to wheel hub motors and the focused tweaking required with this particular instance the 250w Orbea Gain motor would you given your experience, [and if others have different views] actually recommend a particular KT model which again given my understanding of your experience with hub motors be better than what we are using at present the std Bafang issue.. thanks .. will

if the issue is the motor is rotating, just fit a torque rod, i run a 750 and a 500w and torque rods on both, theyre copies of the luna cycle one. it covers over the original bracket that locates the motor,use slightly longer allen bolts and then folds under the down tube and can either be clamped tight under there with a s/s hose clip or drill the downtube and fit a 5mm riv nut and bolt it down no more problem..if you message me with details i can supply one..and post it to you.. w

I would watch doing any Cannondale as their bottom bracket shell isn't BSC THREADED its a totally different bearing system so while i expect a skilled bike engineer could work his way around it it wouldn't be a job for a pilgrim.. and if you are looking a fitting a mid motor be aware that in both the popular motors the bracket outer shell has to be flat with little or no swelling or plastic/nylon brackets eg to guide and control gear inner steel cabling.. how do i know... called experience.. have done 25 to date the 26th didn't work mainly because Whyte had swelled the bracket to allow internal cabling and hydro hose to come through...

need skilled assistance please..... I bought 3 years since a new pair of Orbea GAIN 250w rear hubmotored wheel and as a mate was running a gain we fitted and found it was working as per usual. so long story short bought a Whyte frameset RN7 and a TdZ motor and custom built battery found that RN7 2020 framsets those with internal cabling the bracket shell is barrelled so neither TDZ or BAFANG would fit through their various upstands and bolt upstands fouling on this swollen ridge on the bracket shell, so i pulled the wheel set down and a competent electican friend said why don't we fit the hub motor wheel and see if we can get it to operate with a stand alone controller, you have the 36v battery.. thats where we are ,he has it running on a test rig , however his findings are that it doesn't like modern control so he says, we have it on video at 17.5 mph on the bench but it would need more than that on a test road.. he has now undone the outer casing on the loom which connects the hub to whatever controller hes using , i gave him a couple of Bafang ones i had been supplied by my source in UK..he wants to test and trace all values of these 9 wires so he can isolate whatever is controlling or governing the wheel speed.. any ideas chaps .thanks . i 'm all ears

Billy, why aye man, you'll get it sorted, if not... is there anyone out there with a damaged display that has an intact 5 button switch..???

Fancy word for dampish atmospherics . well all i can say is that cardboard doesn't go damp neither does paper. I was able to get the switch deconstructed, and its a series of 5 micro switches, like those in a car ignition key, thing is the item that is the problem is the one you hold down to get the power switched on before cycling away, yet when its pushed to turn the unit off its immediate, no faffing like when trying to turn on.. i sent some pics to a mate who has experience in microsolder type ops and he is fairly confident in being able to refit with a new micro switch of which i have some..i'll try to get some pics up .. will

Back in summer i bought one of these, mainly to have a V display of the Volts in my battery.. been off the bike for a few weeks after a total hip replacement and earlier this week i ventured out to my workshop to charge and refit my battery, switch on and check everything was kosher.. no display, well a vague display , no info or colours, checked output at battery was good 54v, checked loom connections all good, and tried again, in despair i wiggled my digit on the power button and hey it came alive, switched off and tried again , still dead as Nelson, so it must be the switch albeit how does it switch off so normally.. emailed Luna with invoice details who came back with Sorry outside the 90days warranty, we'll give you 30% of another.. i have the old basic Bafang display and has anyone cut and joined the older switch to another similar display, or have any ideas what could be wrong, its never seen any amount of rain, dry stored, cleaned regularly and hasn't had any sharp shocks or damage.. help?? will

Thanks Guys,i suppose my extended experience in race cars rallye cars and race bikes doesn't count here in your opinion.. all i can say is to me its a bit like fitting any engine with just one engine mount and expecting it to handle all the associated torque actions and reversals.. my experience and obviously Lunas would suggest other than your acceptance of Bafangs offerings.. will

Luna cycles spanner and torque arm here and fitted, but Realistically how do Bafang think that 2 nuts done up as tight as some have suggested will suffice to stop 160n/m or in old school 116lb/ft of torque from getting loose,, that torque which can haul a ton vehicle to over 100mph.. mines on a road bike its not spinning jumping and dropping over jumps as the MTB guys will be.. get a torque reaction clamp they fit over the Bafang yoke and are the proper shape to fit against the underside of the downtube. no real fettling needed.. will

hopefully YES. I started this thread.. my chum has one, now we've covered about 300 miles.. rides vary 30ish /40 and the longest was 43 miles in windy conditions, he varied his power from level one to the red on occasions on hills..ave speed was 14ish, so dependant on the weather, hill etcs and the outside temp i would guess 50 is attainable, he has now got the smart phone app which Orbea have pioneered, no trials yet, he's also bought a 2018 GIANT E ROAD 2 for summer cycling 80n/m... but that app should give him a more accurate power remaining indicator on the Orbea than a series of lights on the top tube, that was his biggest gripe..that and the fact that Orbea don't have any plans to uprate the motor for the USA, whereas GIANT double the speed limit for USA!! will

thanks,i've likely built more bikes than most of the people who contribute here so when i say its tightened and with the plate correctly orientated rest assured its so.. The pic which peter c above sent looks proper and it would certainly contain any inappropriate movement....i have one on order.. will