Ricky 88

So the wheel was seated fine, the issue was that there is some kind of bearing/washer that can be screwed/unscrewed into the hub. Somehow this had been unscrewed slightly which resulted in not only the brake rubbing, but also why the wheel was so difficult to remove and reseat Anyone know what this is called/does?

Yes it's as far over to the right as possible. The only washers on the inside are the tab washers. Yes it's new, only done 200 miles so far and it is the first time it's been upside down and had the wheel out. I just tried following this video to reset the pistons and let the pressure out a little bit, but it's not changed anything at all. I'll get hold of wisper/the supplier tomorrow

Firstly there really is no need to be rude. I came here for advice, not to read someone attempting to belittle me. I took the wheel off to replace to inner tube, not fix the puncture. And I definitely disagree, how are you supposed to properly inspect the inside of a tyre without removing it first? I guess a genius such as yourself doesn't have those issues. Everything that came off went back on in the correct order. I think it's probably more likely that the brake was knocked out of alignment whilst trying to force the wheel back in. However, after removing both the wheel and also the brake today, and putting them both back on, it's still rubbing like mad. If you'd read the op properly, you'd have realised that those photos were taken whilst putting the wheel back on, not removing it. Of course I removed the washers and nut before removing the wheel. The photos were to show that the nut needs to go round the curve in the wire before being threaded. Having the curve so tight is a real risk to cross threading. The wires are integrated into the frame, there is no option to disconnect it on the outside, hence the question. The bike is a H9. The tab washers are both still in the correct place. You can see from the pics below the margins are tiny and basically impossible to position the caliper without it touching the disc

I think filing the drop out would be really difficult as it seems like the wheel can't be fully removed from the frame due to the length of cable that's attached to it Hmm I did think that, but the only washers on the inside of the frame are the ones with a notch in that lock into the drop outs, all of the other washers are on the outside

I had to remove the back wheel to fix a puncture today and now the back brake is really rubbing. The wheel barely spins. I tried loosening the bolts and adjusting the brake caliper, but it still really rubs. I tried to push the pistons back in too, but it didn't resolve the issue. Also is there an easy way to remove the rear wheel? It was an absolutely nightmare to get the axle bolts out of the mounts and then back in. It seems like some sort of design flaw too as the bolt with the wire through it was so tight to get back on due to the angle of the wire, I realise now it shouldn't be fully removed, but it does seem like it shouldn't be this tight, see pics below

That's great to hear, thanks for the update David, glad it's been fixed I'll try and come and collect it Friday daytime if I can nip out from work!

Hi David, thanks for your message. Please let me know how you get on. I was planning to pick the bike up on Friday, but of course I'm happy to wait longer it's needed. The bike was definitely not cutting out within 1m

Yes it's definitely that long. I took it on a 5 mile ride to make sure there was something wrong before taking it back. The time frame can vary massively and is hard to make it occur in any sort of pattern This was mostly in a higher gear and with the highest assistance level. Hopefully when I pick the bike back up, the issue will be much less. It's certainly didn't feel normal to me Sadly it doesn't have brake cut outs, but if it continues like this, then perhaps I'll need to look at fitting them Although it's not something I would expect to have to do to a brand new bike to make it feel safe I'll go and pick it up and with a bit of luck it will be resolved and this thread will not be needed ☺️

I've recently bought a whisper wayfarer H9 and I took it for ride and noticed that the bike would continue to provide power even after stopping pedaling. Sometimes it would be for a split second and sometimes it would be for a good few seconds I noticed this was really quite dangerous on roads approaching junctions because you would pedal to move forward and the bike would continue to accelerate into the junction I took it back to Wisper and they've informed me this is safe and perfectly normal. I'm just trying to understand if this is expected from a cadence sensor. When I dropped it off, the guys test rode it and agreed with me, but now they're saying there's nothing wrong with it. I'm yet to pick it up and test it again

I've somehow lost my front light, so I'm in the market for a new one/set Mine was just one of the aldi sets you get, but it was pretty good to see with. What have you got? I'm wondering whether to get a cheap Amazon one, or something more expensive from a decent brand

Thanks for your reply, that's quite helpful. They seem like decent bikes on paper. I may have to see about taking one for a test ride before I decide

I'm looking to purchase a new bike with the cycle to work scheme, the limit is 2.5k. I've currently got a carrera crossfie (the shock, the horror) which to be fair has been a great entry into e bikes. But now I'd like something a bit slicker. Ideally it would have integrated mudguards and rack and potentially a throttle as I have a disability that can affect my ability to go for long rides/up steep hills. Range is important too as I like to go on 30-40 mile rides if possible, I can pedal a fair bit so that will help. So generally a tourer bike, but I'd be happy to modify a hybrid/mountain bike if needed. I was looking at the Cube touring hybrid pro 2021, but it is towards the higher end of the budget and I've literally just been reading about how rubbish Bosch motors are, so maybe not now lol. Thanks in advance

Well I left it in a bag of rice above a radiator last night and still no difference, I tried to take it apart properly last night but it really doesn't come apart. Seems like it's been glued or sealed together, which makes sense to keep the water out, I think I'll have to wait a few days and see if it fixes it self, if not then it's a trip to halfrauds

Thanks, I actaully tried to take it apart last night, I undid the screws but it didn't want to come apart and i didn't want to force it. May try a little harder tonight then lol

Thanks for the reply, unfortunately I have to use the bike to commute so I can't leave it to dry out. I did remove the battery and computer when I was cleaning them but I think either some water has gotten into the pedal assist on the crank or into the buttons on the handle bars, I think I'll try and leave it against a radiator over night tonight and hoope that solves the issue. I can't really afford to leave it at halfords for a few weeks whilst they sort it out as I need it for work

Anyone ever had this problem? Walk assist is stuck on and I'm unable to select any different modes, I cleaned the bike yesterday and then it's been stuck like this since. Both the computer and the button's have seen better days but I'm sure there's a way to fix it. I've tried cleaning the contacts as I had a similar issue which was solved by cleaning them

So what is the best light on the end? Nearly that time of year again. I need to get a decent rear light this year too

Sounds interesting, what was your total spend on it? Might have to do this when my warranty run's out

If you push and hold the power button on the battery the bike should turn back on again. I've had quite a lot of cut out's and that's always fixed them, failing that use your key and disconnect and then reconnect the battery. It should do the trick. Also something to note that I never knew, if you leave the bike off for 24 hours then you have to press and hold the power button on the battery to be able to turn it back on. Could save you some time in the morning commute lol. I was panacking like mad the first time it happened

Had some fool try and take me out today. Was filtering through standstill traffic and got in front of a car which then overtook me really close so I tapped his car with my foot as he was going by. He then decided to brake check me which was fun. He then pulled up outside his house which was about 50m down the road so I approached him and he got really aggressive and tried to push me over and broke my kick stand on my bike. I've reported it all to the police but I'm thinking of getting a camera now as I can see this sort of thing happening again and as it stands I know it's just gonna be my word against his Any recommendations?

Ahhh I wish you would have replied sooner! Paul cycles has a cube cross for 1200! I brought a cross fire e today from Halford's, I took it for a test ride at the weekend and really enjoyed it. I wish I waited now though lol

I should add that I'm 9 stone, already ride a normal bike, but have a disability that stops me riding far and often. Need to do an 8 mile round commute each day and possible a 25 mile commute occasionally. Mostly flat with some small hills but always a head wind in one direction. Sometimes both

Unsure on the crossfire e due to the cut out issues, I'd like the woosh rio but I don't think they accept the Halford vouchers