vulcanears

Is there a way to change this?

Good morning everyone! When I set the assist level on my TSDZ2 to maximum and turn off the bike, the next time I turn it on again, it will be on ECO. Is there a way to always have it on maximum assist when turning it on? TYVM in advance!

Oh, and does anyone know what happens if I buy a battery from pswpower, unitpackpower or any other chinese company, install it on a customer's bike and the battery goes up in flames over the course of the years? How would the liability situation look like?

Well, unfortunately I don't have any formal qualifications in electronics or as a mechanic. All of my knowledge comes from forums, youtube and years of tinkering. I'm fairly confident that my batteries are on the same level as the batteries that I've bought in china and the UK - but proving that will be a nightmare. Any pointers on how I would find the relevant product safety regulations? Already googled for an hour and have no idea where to look. Thank you in advance!

Thank you for your insight, Mr [mention=6303]Woosh[/mention] I'm aware of the cost of the components and they are fine with me. One big advantage of building them myself would be next-day availability instead of waiting for weeks. I'm not in the position to have dozens of batteries in a local warehouse. I also will NOT send batteries vie mail/couriers. Only local bike customers. Would it still need safety test certificates? Insurance? Or would setting up a limited company be enough? (So in the worst case scenario, the company would go broke, but my personal assets would stay untouched) I'm still in the stage of figuring out whether or not this is a viable idea. I'm not intending to do anything half-legal that could ruin my life in case of a fire.

Hey guys. Over the last year, I've done 10+ ebike conversions and built the batteries myself every time, so I have a small bit of experience. I recently met the owner of a bike shop and he is impressed by the value for money of my ebike-conversions and asked me if I would be willing to do conversions for his customers as a self-employed contractor. It's really difficult to find ebike batteries with decent cells, bluetooth BMS, decent battery-case (I don't like the old Hailong cases, because the whole battery weight is held by 4 little tabs) at a resonable price, so I might as well build them myself. (Got a lot of time on my hands at the moment) I haven't decided yet, whether or not I want to do it, because I'm concerned about the liablity consequences. If the unlikely case happens and one of the batteries catches fire in a customer's home, I don't want my life financially ruined. Do you have any tips or advice on how to approach this? Would setting up a limited company be enough to manage the risk and not liable with my personal savings? Would additional product liability insurance (or others) be recommended? Thank you very much in advance!

Just in case you missed it on the website: The G060 is a fatbike motor with a much wider axle than 135mm and won't fit most frames. If you're already aware of that, then never mind

And I would have to pay courier motorcycle insurance, which would be the same price as one new hub motor per month.

I was under the assumption that hub motors would last much longer if I replace the nylon gears every 5000km or so. I can replace them myself and also lace hub motors into rims, so that would not cause any additional costs. I live in Brighton, which is very hilly. I'm a bit concerned that a 250W direct drive would not be up to the task (I've never tried one though). Any specific legal DD recommendations i could look into?

Yes, 90USD for the motor + 85USD shipping, if you order a single motor. Would definitely be going for the CST (cassette) version. I'm using 11-42 10 speed cassettes on all my bikes and there isn't anything comparable as a screw-on freewheel.

Btw, Bonnie from Xiongda would happily send me a YTW-05 with "250W" laser engraving.

Does anyone know how the G040.250.DC compares to the Bafang CST? https://www.bafang-e.com/oem-area/components/component/motor/rm-g040250dc/ I've read something along "G040 (formerly CST)" several times on aliexpress.

I found that out after burning through several sets of them (and they are quite expensive and rather hard to find). The G310 is a really nice and quiet, but really not durable enough for my usage.

Thank you, your input was very helpful. Is the gear reduction ratio of any importance here? (The G310 runs at 1:11) I've tried to find the Bafanc CST with a 250W label for quite a while now - with no success so far. If anyone has a source, I'd be all ears! Could you let me know which 250W models from MXUS, Xofo or Xiongda are equivalent to the CST? There are so many different ones out there that I'm severely overwhelmed. Thank you in advance!

I've seen that one on the Bafang OEM website, but never found a website that actually sells the 250W G040 version. Asked 2 sellers on alibaba, but their response was rather confusing. Regarding the nylon cogs: The G310 uses non-standard nylon gears that look like this:

Hello everyone! At the moment, my main job is to deliver food on my DIY ebike and I usually ride 80+ miles, 6-7 days a week in a rather hilly town (Brighton). I'm currently using a Bafang G310 rear hub motor, but it's not really up to the task and I have to replace the internal nylon gears every few weeks. Now I'm looking for something more heavy duty. Requirements: - must have a 250W factory label to be street legal (please no 'noone cares, just get a 1000W and put a sticker on' recommendations) - decent hill climbing ability - good reliability and long-lasting - easy to service, easy to find replacement gears - freehub cassette (no screw-on freewheel) - as powerful as possible, whilst still being UK legal I can build wheels myself, so I just need the motor without spokes. Thank you very much in advance!

Hey everyone. My Bafang G310 has 6 screws that hold the cover plate in place and over the course of 6 months, I stripped 4 of the 6 threads. The screws are fine, but the threads in the motor hoursing just don't grip any more. Any advice how I can fix this? TYVM in advance!

My concern is that the same thing might happen again. The hose clamp attachment sounds much more secure.

I'm looking for an alternative to Grin's Triple Bob downtube hose clamp battery mount with UK/EU availability, since shipping fees from Canada to England are 33USD. https://www.ebikes.ca/shop/electric-bicycle-parts/battery-accessories/triple-bob.html# Last week my bike fell over and the battery ripped the two bottle eyelets out of the downtube - I'd rather avoid this in the future and am looking for a more secure mounting solution. Grin's Triple Bob mounting system looks great, but I'd rather avoid the shipping fees if possible. Any suggestions/ideas? TYVM in advance

Thank you very much, Nealh! Great find! Which one of the cells (preferably 18650) would you pick for a 250W 10s9p system that's optimised for capacity and cycle life? I would have picked the MJ1 again, but WheezyRider's comment regarding internal resitace made me a little nervous.

THANK YOU, Nealh, that's incredibly helpful! Have been looking for a test like this for ages. Do you still have the link to the original thread? Would love a similar graph with capacity in Wh on the y-axis. Also: Am I assuming correctly that they charged with 1A and discharged with 2.5A?

I can't really tell the difference between the two battery packs in real world use and I don't pay much attention. Both are fine. Will be interesting to see the remaining capacity after a year. Got them from nkon.nl - don't remember the price. Yes, the smartphone app for the Bluetooth BMS shows the 10 individual cell voltages of the 10s pack. That's really useful for making sure that the BMS works correctly.

Oh, in case anyone is interested: I also charge laptop, drone batteries and Photo/Film equipment with my battery packs, using a 36V to 13.8V DC/DC converter and then using car chargers to charge my electronics. If you ever try to do this, do NOT buy a 36V to 12V DC/DC converter. Many "12V" car chargers for drones, etc have a low voltage cutoff of 13V so that they don't suck the car battery empty.

MJ1 for one pack and 35E for the other. BMS is a 30A Bluetooth BMS. Don't remember what the balancing current is, but I've checked the cell-voltages dozens of times and there were always perfectly balanced.

Yes, I have two 10s9p batteries in Reention DP-9 cases.