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Dani from Granada (Spain)
Hi torchy, I think there's no such a way to rent ebikes here in Granada. There're two companies that hire normal bikes but I think one quit due to vandalism. The option I have took sometimes is hiring an eMotorbike with the company müving (torrot bikes). Sorry for the bad news. Greetings.
- Low Voltage cutoff from BMS or Controller
- Low Voltage cutoff from BMS or Controller
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Low Voltage cutoff from BMS or Controller
Following your advice, I set the C5 to a ÷2 current value, so theorically now it shouldn't be higher than 10 amps with the current controller. The results are the expected, the wattage never comes over 300W and the voltaje falls from 42v (idle) to 37v (running) when I pull the throttle. I've being researching the cells you recomend and I think I will try the Sony VTC6, but some time in the future. Thanks for the advices.
- Low Voltage cutoff from BMS or Controller
- Low Voltage cutoff from BMS or Controller
- Low Voltage cutoff from BMS or Controller
- Low Voltage cutoff from BMS or Controller
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Low Voltage cutoff from BMS or Controller
Hehe Thanks for the information wheeliepete, it's what happen when you are a noob (me!). No problem, I can use the cells for other porpouses like external batteries for sports camera, smartphones and so. Two questions I may ask: 1. Which setting should I set to reduce the amp draw meanwhile I get a new battery. Maybe, should I set P1 and C12? 2. Which batteries do you recommend to do a new pack? Greetings and thanks again for your help!
- Low Voltage cutoff from BMS or Controller
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Low Voltage cutoff from BMS or Controller
Thanks for your answer, Wheeliepete. The cells were bought in gearbest and they are Samsung ICR18650 - 28A 3.7V 18650 2800mAh. I've welded them in 10S, so they're 40 cells. I did it following youtube/internet tutorials from ebikeschool.com among others. I don't have a spot-welding machine so I use my standard welder and niquel plates. The BMS should works with over 40A currents, as its specification. The components are the ones in the attachment.
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Low Voltage cutoff from BMS or Controller
Hi fellas, Almost one year ago I had an injury in my knee so I decided to "electrify" my bike to help me riding uphills. I made my own battery with Samsung cells (2800mA), a chinese BMS and a HL case. I also bought a ebike kit from Amazon, Prystel 26T, for rear wheel. From the beginning, the thing hadn't work as intended. Obviously it works but when the voltage came below 37 V the LCD turned off and I had to reset the battery (disconnect and connect again) in order to continue riding. I use a manual throttle, I haven't installed the PAS because I only use the bike to go to work (and rehab). Recently I bought another controller because I thought the problem was it. Specific, I thought is was 48V and that would explain the cutoffs al 37V. I also bought another LCD, with much more information in screen. The thing is that still the same. I've tested with different P1 values but I can't guess the correct value since there's no information in the wheel. When I press the throttle and the voltage comes below 32V-31V, the battery BMS or the controller itself cuts the current. I'm adding a video I recorded today with the bike behaviour. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1H97BEfe_LBmwbURnHbRIv-O4fzK3AFUn/view?usp=sharing I don't know that to do, I've being trying things for almost one year, but none worked. The only solution was to recharge the battery everyday (to 41.5 to 42 V). Can you help me?
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Dani from Granada (Spain)
Hahaha Well thank you, but you can blame my empty wallet xD Total cost of homemade battery was 250€ (11.2A 36V Samsung Cells), plus 250€ for the kit, so I saved some money.
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Dani from Granada (Spain)
Hi fellas, my name's Dani and I'm from Spain. I live in Granada which is a great city for riding a bike, since it's small and almost plain. I made my own ebike battery and installed a ebike kit in my old bike myself. I have learned a lot from the experts in the forums and I hope I keep learning more. Greetings to all and thanks for knowledge sharing!