krzychoniusz

Has anyone tried the silent PEEK nylon gear replacement from Luna? I am looking to replace the stock nylon gear with something more robust as I tend to ride on throttle quite a bit. A steel gear seems to be the toughest option but is REALY noisy, so the PEEK gear could potentially be the sweat spot between durability and noise. https://lunacycle.com/bbshd-silent-peek-gear-nylon-gear-replacement/

Just ordered molly grease, will be greasing it up next weekend I suspect it may be something else though, as it started quite suddenly rather than building up over time. First squeaks heard after steep hill climb - could it be a worn out clutch? I did have an issue with grinding gears in winter at near zero temps and cold motor, but it seemed to go away as soon as weather got warmer or motor got hotter so I assumed thermal expansion of the nylon gear.

My BBSHD developed a loud squeaking noise when running at heavy load, very similar to what's shown on this video (see 30sec mark): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fBOeQoH66bk:32 It's quite loud but only audible at heavy load, i.e. either when riding on throttle or pressing pedals hard (also without PAS). When I get off my bike and move pedals without any load it won't make that noise. Any ideas what it might be? Thank you

I checked the display manual and it says the setting allow you to change auto-off between 1min to 9min. The issue I have is motor immedially cuts off once error 21 pops up - which is typically about 3 seconds into the ride. Have you had the same issue, or did your motor keep going despite the error?

C965

How do you turn auto power off?

Thanks. Is there a way to keep the motor running until I fix it? From what I read the error 21H usually allows the motor to keep running, but in my case it stops and stays unresponsive until switched off & on again.

I just had the same issue today. I managed to pinch the cable connecting the speed sensor to the controller while installing new bike stand . The damage is about 6 inches away from the controller, so it’s at about 1/5th of the length of the cable. The controller shows 21H error about 3 seconds into the ride, but contrary to [mention=23405]Bodgeitnscarper[/mention]'s in my case the motor stops after error 21H pops up on the screen. Is there a way to bypass it and keep the motor running despite the error 21H, so that the bike can be used whilst I work on fixing the issue? And is there a way to simply replace the damaged cable, rather than replacing the whole controller?

I recently upgraded front fork to rockshox recon so I can swap the front disc brake from 160mm to 203mm on my 29er. Since then, under braking the wheel pulls heavily to the left, so much that it rubs the forks. Interestingly, the wheel does not align back when braking is over, but when I take it out of the forks and put back in it tends to sit straight again. I tried replacing wheel (thought might be the hub, or misaligned wheel) but the issue still occurs. Brought it to a local bike shop, but they had a hard time figuring it out. Hub was serviced and adjusted (centered), spoke tension checked (all fine). They believe it could either be QR axel skewer that is not strong enought to hold the wheel in place, or massive wheel flex due to inadequate rim width. I tried 3 different skewers but no luck, so temporarily ruled that out. I haven't upgraded the rim yet as I would have thought if it's indeed the rim, the problem would either be permanent damage (rim gets bent) but if so then taking wheel out and putting back in the forks would not fix the issue is it does right now; or if it was just a massive braking flex then it should align back to centre again once braking is over. Any ideas what else could it be? I thought the fork might be damaged/misaligned (bought second hand) but the mechanic from the bike store says that doesn't seem to be the case.

His name is David, slightly older guy, seemed very nice. Turned out the button would get stuck due to improper alignment (factory issue), it was fixed quickly and free of charge (under warranty). It still gets stuck every now and then, but is workable. David suggested to replace the button entirely, currently awaiting parts to be shipped from China and will have it done soon. Another great one from em3ev, thanks guys.

Thanks. I got an email from Joseph at em3ev earlier today and was offered new switch or inspection by their technical consultant locally in London. Went for option two, so I trust they will be able to fix it.

hard case

Have you done a proper gear adjustment after replacing the ring, if not then you should start with that. Make sure the limits are set correctly (both front and rear gears). Also check if you're using the correct chain size for your setup. The problem could also be a change in the chain tension, as the rear derailleur is now working with a larger cog. Check if derailleur is properly adjusted and maintains the correct tension. Watch for any sudden chain 'jumps' when shifting gears, if that occurs then get a £7 chain tensioner from ebay (the one with jockey wheel and tension spring, not a fixed one as shown on this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LK54bySPAXA:108) and install it near the front ring, that should solve the problem.

Hi all, as in the subject line I recently started having issues with the power switch button on my 52V triangle battery from em3ev. The battery itself works fine, but the power button is playing up and I cannot switch the battery on or off. LEDs seem to be a bit dimmed too, not sure if that's related. So far the only work around I found is to connect the battery to a charger, which causes the battery to automatically switch on, so I can then disconnect it and put in my ebike. The alternative is to press the button a hundred times until it finally does its job. Anyone experienced similar issues with these batteries and can suggest a workaround? I'm not much of DIY-er, but perhaps there's a relatively simple solution to this problem?

I read that Bird, the e-scooter sharing company announced adding shared ebikes to their fleet. They will soon be coming to multiple cities across the world, including London and few EU capitals. Unlike Jump or Lime, they will be fitted with 52V batteries and 20amp controllers. The press release note says Cruiser Bird will be pedal assisted only (at least in EU) and is fully compliant with EU regulations, but we all know it peaks at over 1000W regardless of what the sticker says. And it's not like it looks inconspicuous either! How come this is legal in EU? https://cruiser.bird.co/

For sale a brand new pair of hydraulic brake sensors for Bafang BBSxx. Will work with all types of brakes, hydraulic or mechanical. I purchased them for my BBSHD conversion kit but didn't really like the way they operate and decided not to install them. The kit includes sensors, magnets and some zip ties. £12 a pair and free postage within UK mainland. PM if interested. Cheers

For sale a brand new pair of hydraulic brake sensors for Bafang BBSxx. Will work with all types of brakes, hydraulic or mechanical. I purchased them for my BBSHD conversion kit but didn't really like the way they operate and decided not to install them. £12 a pair and free postage within UK mainland. PM if interested. Cheers

Update on the old thread, as someone could experience similar issue in the future. Athough there was some good advise in this thread, in the end I haven't taken any action and let the bike sit outside under a bike cover for another 2-3 weeks whilst weather was improving and temperatures went up to about 8-10 degC. I have then got the bike out and have now done about 200 miles, no sight of any issues. My guess is that the grease inside the motor was thickening due to cold weather (I keep my bike outside) which would cause the gears to grind until the grease got warm enough to properly lubricate all parts. I guess the next winter will confirm my theory but for now all is back to normal.

If you meet such officer he would probably stop you just to complement your bike and give you high five I would imagine if the crackdown was ever to be launched it would start with electric scooters which are all and without exception illegal, very easy to spot and way more popular on streets of London. Regarding large diameter, it may suggest the bike is overpowered as they usually tend to be, but then again it may not be. If you pair it with a little controller and small battery the max output of that motor in that particular setup could be within limits set by law. So again, large diameter means nothing and you cannot be prosecuted without concrete proof of breaking the law. But as others mentioned in previous posts, you can justify and argue all you want as there are a lot of grey areas, but if you cause a serious damage then it all becomes a different story.

Unless an officer is an ebike enthusiast they will never spot if the motor is overpowered or not. Event then, unless there is a label on it that says it's more than 250W, or there is no label at all (as required by the law), you could claim this is a 250W kit. Similarly with mid-drive motors, it would be difficult to know for certain if it's a 250W road legal or 1000W overpowered motor just by looking at it if there was no label on it. Riding fast does not necessarily mean the motor is overpowered, you could have just been pedalling really fast. Central London is full of cyclists hitting 30-35mph on road bikes. The only way to prove you wrong would be to take your bike to a testing facility which is extremely unlikely unless you've been stopped for doing 100mph; routine check would most likely be limited to a conversation. Be a nice guy and you'll just be told to slow down.

All I'm looking for is a little more acceleration on a first few yards, I'm happy with further acceleration as it already is. Just not sure which way is most effective, surely all of them combined, but if I was to try out just one which one would you start with?

As in the subject line, I'm looking for ways to increase the initial acceleration without touching the motor, controller or battery. Not interested in top speed, just bigger 'oomph' when launching at traffic lights. Currently using BBSHD on a 29er bike on 2.3 tyres with 42T lekkie and 28T low gear on rear cassette. I have thought of the following options: a) buying new rear cassette with 34T or ever 40T low gear b) changing rear wheel only to 26inch on 2.5-2.7 tyre c) both of above d) replacing front ring with 36T lekkie, but chainline most definitely will be messed up and that option is least preferrable. What's your opinion on this?

I have been riding around central London on a BBSHD powered ebike pretty much every day for the last 6 months. Throttle only, no pedalling, big bike with mirrors and massive battery pack - not exactly trying to blend in. I pass the police vehicles few times on every commute and never had any issues. With so much traffic you will blend in perfectly. There is a ton of electric scooters which are equally illegal and much more visible and these don't get stopped too. Just as an example, last month I saw I guy riding an electric monocycle near Liverpool St station, tailgating a police car in the middle lane for good half a mile and no one cared. If you're sensible, wearing a helmet and not endangering others you will be absolutely fine. Just don't crash into anything, that's when things could get messy. Or buy an insurance.

Thanks - should it be greased up too or no need to lubricate?

This is how the sound looks like - more or less. Though this guy seems to have a continuous problem and his chainring is spinning, whilst in my case the chainring does not move and the problem goes away as soon as I lift off the throttle.