Adam648

Sorry for the delayed reply guys; thanks for the advice so far. Took the controller apart and have continuity between the negative & positive wires to the 3 phase wires. So I believe the controller might be ok. Battery is currently at work with bulbs wires up to it to slowly discharge it - I’ll check it again in morning to see if it’s flat. Question.. would using a different charger cause an imbalanced cell? I have one charger at work and one at home; the one at work is rated higher?

Chesterfield. Unfortunately don’t have another bike to test on. Bike does show 54.8v but just a red battery icon.

Anyway I could test for that? PswPower.. only got it in September and done maybe 250 miles tops?

Hi All, Wondered if someone could point me in right direction. Been out on the bike today - with what I thought was a fully charged battery. Did approx two miles and the motor started jolting; I noticed the battery indicator was dropping fast then just turned to a red icon. At first I assumed the battery; but this was showing 52V on the screen. Peddled back home and charged battery up; fully charged and there’s still nothing on the e-bike. The screen powers on no problem but there is a red battery icon in the corner - it’s had a few ‘jolts’ of power again but nothing normal. Checked all wires and they appear fine.. what’s everyone’s thoughts on what could be wrong? When I go into the battery info it says the voltage but capacity 0% on the screen - it worked for a brief second and showed 93% then back to 0%. From what I’ve read it sounds like controller? Any thoughts?

Hey! The SRAM adapter didn’t work as that actually converts it to 24mm (iirc) suitable for the SRAM Hallowtech bottom brackets. The FSA one did work - it did take some fitting (used a thick metal bar, nuts / washers and a plate to press into the frame) but once it was fitted it was the correct diameter for the frame. I couldn’t use the mounting plate that came with the kit... it wouldn’t stop the motor from spinning because there is nothing for it to ‘bite’ onto. I used the California ebike stabiliser bar and this worked a treat. Required some bending and longer bolts / washers to fit to the motor but I basically have the bar attached to the motor then a hose clip attaching the bar to the frame of the bike. What I mean by the spinning is the motor actually needs to be attached to the frame; so when the motor turns due to the amount of torque it moves backwards without the stabiliser bar. So when you pedal the motor is all over the place. If you need a FSA adapter send me a message as I have a spare. Comes with Loctite as well. What I will say is.. the FSA adapter is a permanent fix.. it would be very difficult to take out. Good luck with the build!

I could be wrong here as I’m no pro.. but I think the ID of HT BB is 24mm so too small.

Looks a good build! Are you by any chance selling the 36T Bling Ring.... in the market for one..

The original chain ring was 32T by the way.. if that helps.

Again big thanks both for the feedback - if I can get two years out of this battery I will be happy; only cost £220 which was cheaper than most none branded batteries on Ebay. Started the build today; Old crank out PF30 out Thought I'd purchased the right SRAM PF30 --> BSA adapter but it appears I didn't So need to order another adapter - gonna go for the FSA PF30 to BSA as this seems to get good reviews Did manage to get the motor running though as a test; 44T is too much though for my 29er - the chain is far too right on the highest cog. I was going to purchase a 36T Lekkie but heard bad reviews about chain lines? Anyone have any experience with this?

Many thanks for the feedback - didn't realise that about the Samsung cells. I thought I was doing the right thing going branded... Ordered the stabilizer bar! Exactly what I was looking for.. I brought some sheet metal home from work but there's no way I'd be able to make something as nice as that haha. Battery arrived today; so not long now until I can start building :-)

Hi, I’ve purchased a boardman 29er Pro 2016 to convert to an e-bike. I thought the only thing I had to worry about was bottom bracket size (which I measured before purchasing) but clearly I was wrong! The frame uses PF30 BB so I’ll need an adapter to convert it to BSA. From what I’ve read; the adapter will not stop the motor from spinning round and the motor some how needs to be fixed to the frame to stop it spinning. Does anyone have any recommendations on where to get an adapter and if possible bracket to stop the motor spinning? Any other comments on my first build? BBS02 750w with 850c and a 14.5ah Samsung 48v 29E dolphin battery Thanks!

hi all! Many thanks for accepting my registration. Had my first go on an electric bike today and caught the buzz definitely. I have a Specialized Hardrock bike that I’d like to convert to an ebike. I’m a big guy (6ft 1in and 120kg) so I guess I’ll need something with a bit of grunt. I’d like to use it to go to work and back (7 miles each way) with some fairly big hills on the way. Any recommendations for what kit I should go for? I’d like to do it on a fairly low budget to be honest.. Any advice is much appreciated - complete noob here. Thanks!