xyzzy

Hey, for anyone who is interested I've solved it. On my controller I have a pair of wires called "Self Study". I connect these together with the power on and then disconnect them. Believe it or believe it not the wheels then turned in the correct direction. I'm not sure how this works but looking around the internet suggests one should rotate the wheel, in the correct direction, by hand for it to learn the correct direction. I didn't do that and it still worked. I also disconnected the Hall cables and it still worked; must work on the back EMF, sensor-less control. xyzzy

Hmmm. I don't know really. It is worth looking at to see if is possible. Thanks for your help.

Hi flecc. I tried that, with the phase leads but only one configuration works. As I understand it, one has to alter the phasing of the Hall leads to conform?? Is that correct?

I have just installed a new controller on my electric scooter and the wheel turns the wrong way. If I swap the supply leads around the wheel does not turn as the Hall detectors are not in the same rotation. Do I have to change both these sets of these leads? Why is a controller designed to drive the wrong direction? It is a big job to alter Hall connectors and I was hoping I might have done something else wrong. Anybody have any ideas?

Does anyone have experience/ knowledge of a typical lighting circuit on an electric scooter? While trying to connect up, to the switch side of the lighting circuit, a dc – dc converter to run extra lighting at 12V, I managed to short the supply, (ok I know I should have had the power off but I was measuring voltage to work out which wires were which). There was very little flash created, in fact I only knew I done it because the panel light went out. This leads me to believe that it was fuse protected. The main battery supply is still fine and the motor still drives. The thing is I have no idea where the source of the power to the light switch is connected into the battery supply and where this fuse is. I can account for all the connections into, and out of, the controller including the live red and black heavy duty wires, which still provide a supply. I have stripped all the covers off the handle bars and the front and around the controller but without completely stripping the thing down to the frame and trace the wiring back from the connector to the switch cluster I’m at a loss. Shouldn’t a fuse be in a place easily accessible? Anyone any ideas? Thanks.

Well I eventually got around to completing this little task and it work a treat. Motor is running fine now. Thanks to everyone who participated with their help in this thread and I'm glad to hear it has helped others like Auldgit; well done.

Ok, thanks for that; we'll give it a try and report back.

Hi. Just been reading through this thread as a friend of mine has a very similar problem. He bust his twist grip and ordered a replacement. The replacement operates in reverse, i.e. at rest the motor is at full speed and when it is twisted fully round, the motor is at rest. The grip was returned but another replacement operates in the same way. I wonder if RAI ever resolved his issue or anyone else has any ideas? BTW does anyone know why the Chinese call the twist grip control, the steer?

Ok, thanks to both of you. I'll keep you informed.

Will do. They arrived this morning (brilliant service RS). It's not immediately obvious which way round they go. They are bevelled one side and a round spot on the other; any clues?

Ok, thanks. I've ordered three. As another member advised, it may well pay to change all three. Thank you for all your help.

Thanks for the helpful tips on how to change it; I’ll follow your advice. I'll ask the Spiratronics, supplier for a data sheet but for the sake of a few pounds I may as well just buy another and get the correct product. I’ve searched in the relevant places, like e-bay & RS, but it doesn’t come up with an S41 specifically. However there are so many in the RS stock I wonder if there is an equivalent.

I had thought about that but I have read, elsewhere on this forum, that they don’t always run that well on a motor that is originally designed to run from a controller reliant on sensors, particularly at slow speeds. Also I am not sure how the speed control (twist grip) would interface with a new controller. There is always the economics to consider as well; approx. £50 for a controller versus £3 for a new sensor. I haven’t ruled out the possibility however.

I haven't removed the old one yet. I've, earlier, uploaded a picture of the sensors in the hub, shown via a link referred to, four posts back. You will see that the sensor will need digging out and there may not be much discernible left after doing so. You can, however, read part of the identification on one, while in situ; it reads 327 and above that something like 541. The new one I’ve bought is from Spiratronics and the product code is XF2-012, with the following description: This hall effect sensor is an ultra-sensitive transducer which varies its voltage based on changes in magnetic fields around it. It is pole independent and is ideal for hand held equipment and speed measurement. Supply Voltage: 4.5V to 6V Output Voltage: 4.7V Max Supply Current: 11mA Output Sink Current: 10mA Output Bandwidth: 20kHz Magnetic Sensitivity: 2.5mV/G Does that help?

Ok, I know this is slow progress, I’ve determined that the “green” hall sensor is faulty and I’ve bought a replacement. Before I replace the old one I want to be sure I’ve got the right device. My understanding is that there are two types of sensors a digital position type and a magnetic field type. Am I correct can anyone advise? If so how do I determine which type I need? d8veh recommends a Honeywell SS41. I think this is the digital type. Is it that this is the usual type used for electric bike controllers? The one I have for replacement is an XF2- 012. Thanks.

Faulty motor or controler I know this discussion was a long time ago but I have only just got around to stripping the motor down and investigating. There is no apparent physical damage to the sensors, ( I have uploaded a close up picture of them at this location: http://clivebillson.tripod.com/nettop/HallEfectDetector01.jpg ) That is: clivebillson.tripod.com/nettop/HallEfectDetector01.jpg I wonder if anyone knows what resistance measurements should be expected, between each of the three legs of each sensor? I have taken these readings but get a variety of differing results. Is there any other way to test them I wonder?

>>The Hall sensors can often be dug out of the stator and replaced, fiddly but possible with care.<< Ok, Thanks. It looks like that's where I've got to start delving, intto the motor; I'll post back what I find.

I have converted a brushed motor, electric scooter to a brushless motor with suitable controller. Every thing worked fine for months until I overloaded the motor one day. The motor suddenly lost its torque and proceeded to run very rough; little power and very jerky. I assumed, at first that I had burnt out one set of thyristors and it was only running on two phases but investigation has shown that each phase conductor is passing current when the motor runs. I've tried measuring voltages at between the 5 Hall wires to the controller, these all vary to some degree but one seems to have no or much lower volts between it and the other 4. Can anyone suggest the most likely problem? Whether the controller has a fault or, what I beginning to think now, that there might be a problem with the Hall sensors? Can overloading a motor cause that type of fault? Thanks.

Sunrim Mammoth Fat rim, along with a Schwalbe Smartguard Marathon PLUS tyre. 26" Size: 47 -559 (26 x 1.75) The rim will need spokes; existing ones have had the hub cut out. These are the remnants from me canablising the hub motor and by all accounts are both of good quality. It seemed a shame to throw them out before checking if they might be of some use to someone. I suppose they would each retail at around £20 but I'm open to offers. Can be viewed on the following links: - (Unfortunately the links do not go direct to the URL, but will work if you cut and past the link directly into your explorer) http://clivebillson.tripod.com/DownLoads/Size.JPG http://clivebillson.tripod.com/DownLoads/SunrimsBigMammoth.JPG http://clivebillson.tripod.com/DownLoads/SchwalbeSmartGuardMarthonPLUS.JPG http://clivebillson.tripod.com/DownLoads/Tread.JPG