Robert Stanford

I have not used BMS Battery and can't vouch for them.My understanding is that when you order you need to specify the battery chemistry (e.g. lead acid) and they will customise the charger to match it.

My mistake, I'm pretty sure that the cells in my battery are of the inferior variety so I have decided to play safe and go for a 2A charger. I have followed your lead and gone for a metal cased one, with a fan and a fuse on the output made by AnnPower. It claims to be CE compliant but we will take a peak in side just to make sure it looks OK (not possible with a welded plastic case). I will report back once it arrives. Thanks for your help

Hi Douglas, I used to be a fairly dab hand with a soldering iron and am reasonably confident in building a charger (though I've not had much experience of surface mount components and multiple layer boards). I am not up to designing one. Where would I start (kit or pcb template to photo etch)? Thanks for your help, Rob

Thank you, That fits with the research I did this afternoon. I recon I am much better off with a good quality Li-ion charger at 2A than trying to use a power supply. I've read in a few places that the charger needs to be tailored to the battery (i.e. not all Li-Ion cells use the same charge profile) my current charger is 42V, 2A. Will any 42V 2A Li-Ion charger match the battery?

Thanks, I guess the other alternative for local use is to charge fully but not re-charge until the remaining charge is too low for the next journey so I reduce the number of charge cycles and fully charge each time. Or I could do both :-)

Brilliant, now I understand, my charger is welded/glued together which is why I was a bit confused. Thanks

Thanks, how did you know where to drill the holes and how did you aviod damaging the internals when you drilled them? Best regards, Robert

Thanks, I like the idea as it would also double up as a bench power supply. I haven't got my head around exactly what CCCV means. I am probably being a bit dim! Does it mean fixed voltage and limited current (i.e. 42V limited to <= XA)? If I use a power supply as a charger I assume that the battery will be charged when the current drops to 0A. I notice that my plastic charger is cooler as the battery nears full charge. I assume that this is because the current is tailing off. Assuming that I have got this right (big assumption) I would use a power supply to charge my 36V pack by setting the output to 42V for 100% capacity and the current to the max I want to charge (nominally 2A). If I wanted to charge to 90% capacity I would set the voltage lower (e.g. 40V). Would I be right in thinking that the BMS balances the cells at the end of the charge cycle? If this is right not fully charging could cause balancing issues? Sorry for my limited knowledge. Robert

Thank you both, The reason that I am uncomfortable with the plastic case charger that I have is that the case gets up to 75 degrees C. It works perfectly and is really compact and lightweight to carry but I don't have any confidence in any device that appears to be running under that much stress. My thinking is that a metal charger body will conduct heat and could be used as a heat sink. The addition of a fan reduces the stress on the components significantly. Ideally, I'd like to be able to vary the voltage and the charge rate (down as well as up) 20ah allows me to charge to <90% for local trips and being able to charge at the occasional 3A would allow a boost at lunch time when touring. My plastic charger could run for many hours without a problem or it could fail and catch fire or destroy the battery. Maybe I'm over analysing? Best regards, Robert

Hi, Please can anyone recommend a reasonably priced quality charger for a 36v 20ah pack. In an ideal world I would buy a Grin Technologies Satiator but they are pretty expensive. There seem to be loads of cheap plastic chargers out there that I would not trust. Ideally I am looking for a UK/EU supplier. Thanks in advance, Robert

Thanks, I don't have a problem with the click, my worry is that it may be a sign of a fault that could deteriorate. I want to use the bike for long distance cycle touring so reliability is high on my list. One of the reasons for choosing the BSS01 was that if it does break I can swap it out for a new motor and carry on with little effort or even revert back to a standard bike.

Please can anyone help with the clicking noise that my motor is making when I turn the pedals. I have started a thread in the technical forum: http://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/bafang-bbs01-b-clicking-noise-when-rotating-pedals-by-hand.32433/#post-456412 Best regards, Rob

I took the cover off this afternoon and the click is definitely associated with the gear wheel that drives the chainring (crown gear?). I can't be sure but it sounds like its originating from where it meshes with the nylon gear from the motor. The two do not mesh as closely as I was expecting but having checked a couple of videos for other models it seems that they may be the same. This is a video of my BSS01/B https://photos.app.goo.gl/DPNX392GYuWZeW719 I'd be grateful if anyone can can tell me if this is typical or not? Best regards, Rob

Update - I still have to dismantle but spent a few minutes investigating further: There is no play as far as I can tell in the bottom bracket and the bearings seem to be smooth when I rotate it in forward and reverse. Turning the chainring so it drives the motor does not result in any clicking. I think that there may be clicking when I turn the chain ring in the other direction i.e. the same way as pedaling but its hard to turn it consistently to be 100% sure. There seems to be more lateral play (side to side) in the chainring than I would have expected. when I do this I get a noise not dissimilar to the clicking from pedaling.

Hi, Definitely not the pedals as it happens when you rotate the cranks without touching the pedals. Rob

Hi, I have just installed a new BSS01/B from China and the pedals make two clicking noises each revolution they are not at 180 degrees apart and the position moves if I rotate the pedals backwards (suggesting to me that it is not the bottom bracket bearing as it would be in the same spot?). This is a video of the issue (I think you need to make it full screen to get sound). https://photos.app.goo.gl/z1e9YTGUD53h83RH8 I also found this thread which seems to be an identical issue http://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/repair-bbs02-bottom-bracket.19842/page-2 Does anyone know what the noise is caused by and how to fix it (if its a problem). The motor came from China and I can open a dispute with the supplier but it will cost me the carriage. Thanks in advance for any assistance. Best regards, Rob

Hi Michael, I'm not sure if you are still active on the forum? I have just installed a brand new BBS01/B which has exactly the same "fault" as yours and ticks in the same places. Did you ever get to the bottom of the problem? Best regards, Rob

Thank you, you have saved me from making the same mistake. I rode the bike unpowered today (don't have a battery yet) and its OK on the flat with less resistance from the motor than turning it by hand would suggest. Any tips on spiders that I could use to move the chain line 4-5mm closer to the bike frame as the angle is a bit steep when on the lowest cog (same as it was with the 36T but there was also a 28T to change down to). Guess if I want a lower range I will have to change the cassette (and possibly the derailleur arm). I will see how it rides under power before I do anything else. Thanks again, Rob

Thank you all for the helpful advice. I installed the motor today and tested it with 3 lead acid batteries in series. All seems to be working O.K. https://photos.app.goo.gl/7fmEp1gaMWDYQHve6 I've ordered a cheap 20AH battery to see how many miles I get. Once I have a better understanding of my requirements I will invest in a quality battery of the right capacity. I want to replace the 44T chainring that I ordered with the motor with a 36T. This will give me a top speed (unpowered) of 22MPH with a cadence of 90RPM which is plenty fast enough with a laden bike. I'd also like to move the chainline about 5mm inboard as the chainring currently sits where the 36T originally fitted was, not good for chain wear in low end gears. Does anyone have any recommendations? Thanks again for all your help, Rob

Thank you Peter, Thanks for validating the problems that I thought I might have. I'm not keen on fast charging (still 5 hours for a 27AH battery) due to the shortening effect that it has on battery life. Higher charge rates is one of the things that attracted me to LifePo4 cells. Where do you carry your batteries now? Have you worked out your wh/kilometer? Tanks again for the advice. Rob

Still no manual but this is the most comprehensive installation video I've seen so far

Thanks for the information. This is why I think the lower energy density of LifePo4 makes them problematic. I need to be able to take the battery off the bike for charging (lunch stops, B&B, hostels and camp sites). Although the bike will carry 300 pounds I'd like to keep the weight to a minimum. I've looked at Frog and rack mounts which give me the capacity I need but put weight high on the frame which isn't good for handling and compromise the load space. There are triangular batteries that will fit: https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/EU-US-no-tax-1000W-36V-triangle-battery-36V-30AH-electric-bike-battery-with-free-bag/407696_32791181223.html https://www.aliexpress.com/item/EU-US-no-tax-1000W-36V-lithium-ion-battery-25AH-e-scooter-36V-25AH-Triangle-battery/32803700038.html https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Triangle-style-ebike-lithium-battery-36v-20ah-lithium-ion-bicycle-36v-1000w-electric-scooter-battery-for/604490_32654913173.html But they are going to be a gamble. I've thought about multiple lower capacity batteries (15-20AH) but I am not sure about charging as I don't want to be carrying two chargers and have to work out if I can charge two batteries in parallel with one charger (constant V&C suggests yes with the BMS managing the charge). A larger capacity battery would be less stressed and allow me to run at 80% in the mid band to prolong the life. Two batteries would give redundancy though if one fails. I've looked at Insats site and will give them a ring. Thanks again, Rob

Thanks for the heads up, I hope it doesn't take too much power in low assist. I have based my estimate on reports from ebike tourists using the BBS01 they could be stronger cyclists than me. I'd rather err on having to much capacity rather than too little. Best regards, Rob

Thank you for your help, I had already visited your and a number of other sites and seen the videos prior to buying the motor. Mine is the /B variant which has an output for lighting and a gear shift sensor (of which I understand there are two types: Derailleur and hub). I'm pretty sure that they are self evident but it would be good to have the manual to save me from making the wrong assumptions :-) I have recommended a couple of friends who live in Essex to visit Woosh, I am very impressed with Woosh bikes.

Hello everyone, I have just taken delivery of a Bafang BSS001/B motor which I am installing on my 2012 Kona Minute cargo bike (http://2012.konaworld.com/asphalt_simplicity.cfm?content=minute#1). The plan is to use it for long distance touring with me providing most of the power on the flat and down hill, supplemented by the motor for headwinds and up hill. Some of the challenges that I need to overcome (that I know about): I imported my motor and it looks to be complete apart from an instruction book (does anyone know where I can lay my hands on a pdf and good installation video for the BBS001B?). I have found lots of online resource for the BBS001 and the /B doesn't look to be much different. Battery choice - I'm working on 6WH/KM and plan to do extended (=< 150km/day) and shorter multi day trips wild camping in Scotland. I am thinking >1000KWH capacity - Have I got the maths right? I am looking to buy/make a triangular battery to fit in the frame above the down tube (which is very tight for space). I have found a couple of batteries on Aliexpress that should do the job from established traders (>7 years with good feedback scores. I am keen not to burn my house down - Any recommendations/advice is welcome. Are there any good UK/EU battery builders who could build a battery at a competitive price? I love the idea of using LifePo4 batteries (safety, longer capacity/life, no oxidation at full charge and quicker charge rates i.e. bigger range boost at pub lunch stops). I don't have the space for headway cells but there are a few higher density packs on Aliexpress. My instinct is to steer clear of these as they seem to be too cheap for the technology which probably means that the quality is poor - Have I got this right? Sorry to ask so many questions. I suspect that there may be answers in other posts, apologies if they are obvious. Thanks in advance, Robert