James Torr

[mention=40339]thelarkbox[/mention], I think I see, just swap out the controller from my current base, I've already replaced it once, so that shouldn't be an issue. New ones actually have a metal plate to add to the structural strength which is good!

I'm not entirely sure what you're getting at here [mention=40339]thelarkbox[/mention]! But yes, thanks for all the input above, it's probably easiest and least likely to backfire if I just grab a YP battery from them... Felt like I should do some due diligence first though!

Thanks [mention=3847]saneagle[/mention], so theoretically I can buy a five pin battery from PSW, solder on a four pin plug and mount it on the four pin mount with the integrated controller?

Here you are Peter - as you can see, the battery has been through the wars, base also needed a bit of an assist. I'll strap the battery in next time, Brighton's roads are probably as bad as the rest of the country's!

After 7 years of short hop commuting service, my 36v Yosepower battery has finally given up the ghost - BMC is cutting out the power very frequently now. Now I need a bit of help deciding what to replace it with. I'm looking for a budget/value replacement, so it's either going to be Yose or PSW. My options: Get a straight swap battery from Yose. Probably the most likely and simplest option. I'll just go for the lower amp hours option as I only use it for shorter journeys. Go to PSW and grab the budget model. It's about half the price of the Yose, but with shipping (and possibly being hit with VAT, maybe 1/3 less). The issue I see with option 2 is that the Yose mount has an integrated controller already, whereas with the PSW option, I'd need to buy a controller like this and install it on the frame somewhere. I couldn't see any five pin Hailong mounts with integrated controllers, so I'm assuming that's the case. Has anybody been down this route, is it worth an upgrade to something a bit more universal? Is there anything else I'm missing here before I push the button. Many thanks in advance, James.

So for anybody reading this, the cut outs seem to be from the older battery. I don't get any at a full charge, so I just keep it charged up after each use and it's working OK. I don't usually do loads of miles, just up to about 5 each trip, so it's working fine at the moment. I suspect I'll need to replace the battery at some point but for the moment, it's OK. Thanks for all the help and suggestions, folks. Much appreciated.

[mention=40339]thelarkbox[/mention], it's a bit hacky, but here it is. Self tapping screws and some spacers (though really short screws would work!). The metal flaps are just brackets, bent over and angle ground to the right size. The battery is quite scuffed up, but as someone commented, it's a senior.

If it's the BMS, then I guess that's end of life for the battery? I reckon I must have done 2000-2500 miles on it.

All of my lugs have come off over the years, I ended up putting some metal replacements on - screwing them to the sides. I'll try tightening them up as well. The cable to the motor is a bit frayed in places (especially the gland going into the motor). That may have just got worse over time. I'm going to move the battery + mount onto a similar bike to see if the issues persists. If it does, then it's a controller/battery issue of course. The controller was replaced a few years ago.

The battery is coming up to 7 (!) years old now... So pretty senior.

I appreciate you trying to help of course, and I'll look out for the BMS diagnosis pointer you mentioned, which was of course, a given after you suggested the first time round.

I've got a mate with the same kit, I'll check to see if his battery does the same thing, that should tell me if it's the BMS or not.

Well, road safety and all that mate, you can't constantly watch the display while riding

I'll check, but I'm pretty sure it's happening regardless of the charge status, I've never seen the bars going down prior to shut off. Just happens quite randomly.

Hey folks, I've a issue with my Yosepower rear hub conversion. It's a fairly senior kit, but I'll try to keep it going as long as possible. Over the past few months, the power seems to intermittently cut out. I can't turn it on directly, but if I lift the battery off and remount, it will switch back on fine. I might get a few minutes ride, or longer, then it just switches off. I've cleaned the contacts on the controller, tried to tighten those on the battery as well. I assume it's contact related, if the supply is interrupted, it just switches off. Anybody had (and fixed) a similar experience to this? Thanks in advance for your responses.

TBK were pretty quick off the ball responding via email, in fact really good for AliEx/Chinese suppliers. Quite impressed. They directed me to the AliEx page for the item, which after a little working out, I ordered. It works out slightly cheaper than their website. I also ordered the 4 pin connector in case that's an issue. Cheers for the help [mention=38589]Cadence[/mention] and [mention=3847]saneagle[/mention]! Now the long wait till they arrive in the UK! Hopefully it'll be a bit quicker than the stated July arrival time, they usually are in my experience.

I've sent TBK a message asking for confirmation.

Cheers [mention=3847]saneagle[/mention]! I can't see the controller for sale on BMS, but TBK have it. I'll double check it later but I'm pretty sure this is it. No accessories or cables necessary I think, just swap the internals of the case around and I should be good to go, assuming I've not screwed up my diagnosis!

Just heard back, Yosepower no longer sell the KT controllers.

Yeah pretty sure it's not the Lishui display. Hopefully they'll have some spares! If not, I guess the Lishui display won't be super expensive...

Hey folks, looking for some technical advice here. I have a 5 year old Hailong 1 battery mount/controller that is on the blink. Getting short circuit warnings on the dash. I've swapped over components with a friend's bike and everything seems to work apart from the mount, so I'm guessing it's this. This originally came from Yosepower, but they don't sell the 4 pin mount any more. I will get in touch to see if they have any, but as a backup, I'd like to look into alternatives. I've seen Hailong 1 mounts on eBay like this, but the plug coming out of the kit is completely different. See the attached file with the white background. What's the best option here? The wiring looks pretty intense, I can solder, but there must be thirty wires there - some with the same colour. Has anyone been up against this and found a suitable replacement, or a simpler option for connecting it up to the motor/dash/throttle etc?

Weirdly enough this same thing happened to me yesterday (commented on your Yt video PC2017) - been running it on some gravel the last few weeks so could be some loose wiring. Gonna have a play around with all the fittings - see what Yosepower themselves think.

So this is the PAS sensor in it's place. Tried the cable tie option but it was sitting in there so loosely that it didn't hold it in place. I may have made the fit a bit looser by pedaling against the sensor when there wasn't enough clearance and the PAS got a little damaged. https://photos.app.goo.gl/HzXH8iaDgFHoN63n7 I got the impression that if it was just a little bit of clearance between the crank and the sensor that was holding it in place, it would come out quite easily and also rubbing against the sensor would quickly damage it. https://photos.app.goo.gl/8tKG4PRLaGx3MFWL6 In the end, I got the pedal crank a bit flatter than it was before so it wasn't rubbing against the PAS sensor and pushing it out. Then I cut out a bit of rubber from some sheeting I had, and placed it between the crank and the sensor. Seems to be working ok now. I might need to replace it after a bit, but it's pretty tough stuff and should be ok for the while. the sheeting https://photos.app.goo.gl/z4MUqM3V2YPYC8jC9 the "washer" in place. It ain't too pretty but seems to do the job.

Briefly spoke to Pete (I think) at Wooshbikes today and he recommended putting in a rubber washer between the PAS (or should I say POS) and the crank. Got some rubber sheeting at work so I'll give that a try cutting it out and mounting it.