GaryMc

Quick update. I have had quite exemplary service from Yose power. After ordering the new sensor they said they would send me both a sensor and controller, tracked from China via TNT. They also refunded the price of the sensor there and then. They asked that I test both the sensor and controller and send back the controller if the new sensor cured the fault. Sure enough, I got the new parts within a week but have only just got the time to install the new sensor. I was a bit worried about pushing the new sensor all the way home so that the outer teeth mated with the bottom bracket slots. Inevitably, the sensor has to go past the square taper and ride up onto the circular part of the axle, which is quite a tight fit and causes a bit of extra friction between the inner and outer ring. I looked at all sorts of ways to get around this but ended up just putting it on and seeing how it went. And the answer is that it seems to be going pretty well. I took the bike out for 15 mins and did loads of stopping and starting. It's more responsive now than before and doesn't hesitate when pulling away from a stop. I'll try it for a week or two to make sure the problem doesn't reappear. Thanks again folks for your previous input.

Yep, you could be right. I've just ordered a new sensor, so I'll soon know;-)

Thanks for the reply. I checked over the PAS sensor and connections before when the original fault happened, but I suppose I can do so again with the crank off. I'm pretty sure that the outer ring of the sensor is well fixed to the bottom bracket and the inner ring is a good fit on the axle. As for internal cable damage, I suppose it's possible. Likewise, I suppose the sensor could be damaged inside. I didn't tighten up any cable ties recently so I don't know why it would suddenly get worse. In any case, it would be relatively cheap to buy a new sensor and cable to see what happens. That would at least eliminate any doubt about the PAS system. Cheers, Gary

Alas, after about 150 miles the cutting out problem is much worse. It cuts in and out constantly, for about 5-10 seconds each time. So the PAS is now pretty useless. I had to get home by holding the throttle on for assist, which is a pain as it pulls too much current and makes changing gear a hassle. I'm guessing it's the integrated controller that's at fault and have messaged Yose for a replacement. All the other bits of the kit still works - screen, motor, throttle, brake switches. Dashed annoying!

Thanks for all you replies. The stuttering has returned a bit, so I might play with the settings. Today it would sometimes take up power after pedalling then cut for a second then come in again. I'm getting used to giving it a touch of throttle to get it 'over the hump' and then it's ok. I used PAS3 quite a bit, with PAS5 for the hills and it did make a difference to the indicated charge left. Well, I think I'll just do what I feel like on any given day. I find that I am still pedalling a lot and getting a bit of a sweat on. The difference is that I am averaging a higher speed and can blat up the hills. So I do feel like I'm getting some exercise and it's nice to be out and about rather than stuck in a traffic jam or on the train. Having whacked up my credit card balance with my bike upgrade I have a great reason to keep saving on the train fare! I doubt that the big bottle of shiny saved pound coins will ever materialise though. As for slow charging - the supplied charger is 2ah output and is certainly not fast. Even with just a little top up it takes a few hours to go from red to green. I take your point about not leaving it stored at 100% That is worth remembering, but I think mine will be in use at least a few times per week.

Thinking a bit more about this, my bike is mainly used for a 10 mile trip which saves £4 on the train fare. Using the higher assist, I can do the trip easily in 45 mins, which is about the same as the total train journey time. If I charge the battery daily, and it lasts for 500 cycles, then I will have saved £2000 in train fares. Shelling out £200 on a new battery will still leave me quids in. The question is - would the battery last 500 cycles if I used high assist most of the time? I guess I'd have to try it to find out. Living in hilly Scotland, I will unavoidably be using higher assists a fair bit of the time. As I get fitter I will likely dial back the assistance where I can.

Great, thanks for the tips. Good to know!

The problem appears to be solved. First I checked the sensor connector - seemed fine (3 straight, shiny pins). Secondly, off came the sensor itself. When I turned the inner ring, the power came on within 1/4 - 1/2 turn. So far so good. Next I gave the axle a wipe in case any Copaslip had found it's way there. When I put the sensor back on I noticed that the inner ring was at the limit where the square taper blends into the circular section of the axle. To try to avoid slip, I put a few turns of PTFE tape on the axle and the inner ring of the sensor on top of this. Seemed like a snug fit and the axle still moved freely. I used a large diameter socket as a drift to gently tap the outer ring into the bottom bracket splines. Some part of the above must have worked because I couldn't perceive any stuttering on today's 20 mile ride. Hurray! I'm still getting used to the characteristics of the kit though. I found the best tactic at junctions and lights is to drop the font derailleur onto the middle ring just before stopping. The rear cassette can be left on the smallest cog. When the lights change, it's easier to start in this lower gear, then change up to the largest chainring after 10 or 20 metres. The kit doesn't give quite the acceleration I hoped for but is much better on hills than I expected. I tried using assistance level 4 on the flat at times to extend the range. After my 20-ish miles the battery was nearly empty (indicated) though I don't know how much charge was actually left. I weigh about 85kg and have quite a few hills to contend with. I always pedal (never throttle only) but like to do a decent pace. Has anyone noticed a difference in range in warmer weather?

I don't think there is any gap to adjust with the KT-V12L PAS sensor. It's an integrated unit. Adjusting the settings might be worth a bash though. Thanks for the tip!

Hi - thanks for your quick feedback! Yes, fitting the bottom bracket was a faff. I ended up bodging on a £10 Halfords bottom bracket with a (slightly mangled) Shimano alloy retaining ring. The steel ring with the Halfords part looked much better, but didn't fit very well and allowed me to damage the bike's threads... Anyway, the new bottom bracket is a fitted and secure. The outer sensor teeth are snugly fitted into the bottom bracket. The inner sensor seem to be a good fit on the square taper. I'd be surprised if they are slipping. The inner part of the sensor turns fairly freely. With the initial longer bottom bracket the sensor rode up over the square taper and the inner teeth were really squashed - so much so that it was hard to rotate the axle. I realised then that something was wrong and reverted to the (correct) 122.5mm bottom bracket. But I wonder if something has been damaged inside the sensor? I'll try and find the problem and post here if I do resolve it.

Hello, I am new to ebikes and this forum. I have just installed the 350w Yose power rear hub motor kit, with 13.5ah hailong battery. First discovery - no controller! After a while, I realised that it was built into the battery base plate. Yose Power really ought to update the instructions and stop including the superfluous separate controller bag in the box. Otherwise, first impressions were good. Niggles I encountered when fitting were, firstly, the heads of my 5mm water cage allen bolts were too deep for the slots in the battery mounting plate. Maybe I could have found other screws but I just ground the allen bolts down instead. I also had to use Riv-Nuts to make a few new 5mm cage mounts further up the down tube. Otherwise the battery fouled on the seat post tube. No big deal, but all new to me and a wee bit of a fiddle. The PAS sensor wouldn't fit as my bottom bracket was an old item with weird plastic retaining rings (without the required 20 splines). So I had to install a new bottom bracket. Having read that there is sometimes not enough room for the sensor, I bought a 127mm length item. Wrong! Too big. So on went a standard 122.5mm and the sensor then fitted ok. I did appreciate the tools that YosePower supplied. I actually needed a new set of allen keys, so that was handy. Likewise, the crank puller did the job. The electrical connections seem to be of good quality and well thought out, at least they are a snug fit and look like they would be weatherproof. The whole build took quite a few evenings as I also replaced the crankset, chain, installed new shifters, brake pads, mudguards and dynamo lighting. The bike itself was a late 90's rigid MTB, made by the Edinburgh Bicycle Coop. It was in fairly sound condition but needed some upgrading. Today I had my first 20 mile ride. Impressions? Pretty good. It's quite amazing to plough up hills in top gear with only moderate pedalling and maintain a decent speed on the flat too. I used PAS level 5 all the way and managed to shave 15 mins off my commute time. However, I seem to have a problem with the PAS. When pedalling, especially when trying to accelerate quickly, the power seems to cut out for a few seconds. This is quite annoying at lights, for example. It can be overcome by using the throttle and then going back to PAS but even then, it sometimes stutters. I've looked on Pedelecs and Google and it seems that the sensor or wiring could be worth checking out. On my bike everything is new and nothing has seen the rain - so no question of corrosion or a duff battery. I'll try taking the plugs apart and rejoining them first. Failing that another sensor, in case I damaged it on installation ... As for speed, using the PAS only and pedalling has the bike cruising at about 18mph (with the aforementioned stuttering). Whacking on the throttle and pedalling sees the speed go up to 20ish. The PAS does seem to hold the bike back a bit at the top end, although it is still a boon on the hills. I'm quite keen to sort the PAS problem out as I don't want the hassle of holding the throttle open all the time, never mind the juice that it pulls when riding this way! Most often I ride in top gear (occasionally 2nd or 3rd from top), pedalling moderately, pulling 200-250 watts at about 18mph and am untroubled by hills. So it's a worthwhile kit, despite a few niggles. Gary