crystaljohn

Yes, all fixed now. Not easy to fit the new 'Correct' Hall sensor to the throttle ( apalling bit of cheapskate design) . Now enjoying what a great bike the Wisper 905 classic is. Works very well for me, as with my knackered lungs I can do some peddalling ,and then when I can't pedal any further I can take advantage of using the throttle to enable me to get my breath back. I find the disc brakes a revelation, they work very well and have a high quality feel to them as does the rest of the bike. Gear change is smooth and positive, and with judicious use of the assistance levels available and the choice of the right gear I'm surprised how far I can travel. I mostly go out with a route in mind then deviate from that route as I'm enjoying it so much I just want to continue.

Just received this reply; after emailing the vendor of the hall sensors: New message from: torquetech-ebike (11,006) Hi John May I offer my sincerest apologies for the error. I hope you have not been too inconvenienced as a result. The 41F hall effect sensors that you have received are intended for use in brushless motors and are not suitable for throttle repairs. I will send you the correct 49E hall effect sensors in the next available postal collection on Monday morning and there is no need for any additional payment. Thanks for your understanding. Kind Regards, Dan

Thanks vfr400- got it. Learning all the time! Just checked my ebay account, I did order the SS49. I was sent the SS41. I didn't check before I got stuck in!

The bike is working perfectly now it has the controller renewed. I havn't had any luck with replacing the throttle Hall sensor. I've tried 3 times without any success. The sensor I have used is a 41F which is a bipolar sensor. I have tried to test a couple of the sensors by connecting them to a 5volt supply, and then meausuring the signal voltage by bringing a magnet into close proximity to it, but despite several attempts , using 4 of the 5 sensors I bought new, I havn't had any rise in signal voltage. I have ordered another left handed half throttle to replace the existing faultly throttle who's hall sensor is faulty. I very much appreciate the help given to me by Vfr400 and Nealh. Your time and experience is invaluable. It's almost impossible as an amateur to know how to try to fix an ebike ,and helping someone over the internet and diagnosing what's wrong is so difficult as oppossed to having the bike in front of you.

Yes. I installed the new controller and it's working. I found then that the existing throttle isn't working though. I temporarily substituted an old throttle into the bike and that seems to work o. k . It seems that the throttle hall sensor isn't working-so I deduce that the mishap I had has somehow broken that too. I have ordered some new hall senors,but have had problems replacing one of them into the existing throttle due to the poor design of the throttle. I'm still trying though. I am awaiting delivery of a' Helping hands vice' to enable me to solder the tiny throttle wires onto the hall sensors ( it's a fiddly job). Once I have done this I hope to be doing an update soon informing that it's all sorted now.

Just an update. I checked all the voltages again yesterday. I was wrong with the measurement of 1.2v on the 5 v rail. when I checked again , I got 5v on the Pedal sensor , the throttle, and the Hall sensors. I also checked the continuity of the display cable from the display to the Controller's connector- all good. In my defence it was tricky, I had to splice needles to use as probes onto my existing meter probes to enable me to make a contact in the tiny connectors. The power was shutting off automatically every 2 mins or so, and I was having to keep switching the power back on. I called the technical dept at Wisper this morning and explained the flashing lights on my display and was advised it was probably a faulty controller. I have ordered a new controller and was told I could get a refund if I return the controller if it turns out it's not the controller at fault. This sounds like a good course of action to hopefully resolve my issue.

The bike was working perfectly before the bungee mishap. All the battery capacity LEDs were showing green. Since the mishap, the left LED of the 4 LED is flashing RED as shown in my video. Despite the battery voltage when measured being 40.6v. I checked the voltage on the 3 pin Pedal sensor connector, ( directly from the controller- not plugged into the sensor) measuring across Red to Black ( the other colour is the Yellow signal wire). It was 1.2 v. I had previously measured this earlier and reported it was at 5v, either a mistake, or it's changed since the last measurement. I think that my controller is faulty.

"However, you should do some systematic checks first, as I would do if I had your bike here. 1. measure the battery voltage before and after switching the bike on. If it is under 36V, charge the battery first. 2. disconnect at the controller all the peripherals leaving just the LED panel: brake sensors, pedal sensor, motor cable and light. Check the battery voltage again. Check the 5V supply on the pedal sensor. Note that the 5V usually shows on the meter as 4.5V. 3. Reconnect the pedal sensor and verify that the 5V supply line is still OK. 4. Connect only the 3 phase wires (yellow green and blue) of the motor and test the bike. " 1. I just measured the voltage at the Battery connector it's 40.6v. 2. with the following connected into the controller : LED panel, and Motor cable ( not hall sensors ) I measured the voltage on the Pedal sensor plug from the controller without it being plugged into the actual sensor, it's only 1.2 v I believe it should be around 4.5 v. Whatever is connected or disconnected, the LED display still doesn't alter it's behavior.

I didn't realise the display has it's own cpu. I 'm now stuck as I have exhausted all the things I can check. I can only think that the bungee being caught up in the gears/wrapped around the hub has resulted in an overload somewhere as the motor tried to turn against the resistance and has damaged some electronic component . I think my only course of action now is to take it to a shop to have it diagnosed. Does anybody know of a competent place in West Sussex?

It is my understanding , please correct me if I'm wrong, that the control panel has identified that there is a problem, which according to the chart, is a 'System electronics/Software failure' So, the way I understand it is,there must have been communication with the controllers cpu for it to do this identification.

I have disconnected both lights from the controller. Although it looks like the cable is crushed, it is in fact a loose protective sleeve containing the rear lights inner wires. I can conform ( now I have modified my meter probes) that there is 5v present when the bike is first switched on at the throttle, P.A.S and Hall sensor connectors. The controller switches itself off after a couple of minutes , no lights on the display. I enclose a page from the Wisper manual regarding the fault codes. If you look at the short 30 second video I posted showing the display in action when I first turn on the bike. On the upper row of the display labeled as 'Capacity indicator', the first light flashes on/off. approx 15 seconds later all 6 light flash on/off on the lower display. After a couple of minutes all the lights go out. ( The controller turns itself off ) I note that on the LED Handlebar Mounted Display- Diagnostic/Fault identification chart All six lights flashing at the same time indicates ' System electronics /software failure' There is no mention what the RED left hand light flashing on the 'Capacity indicator' relates too.

Good point. I'll disconnect the lights from the controller tomorrow. Probably been like since the bike was built was built though, it's an o.e.m part.

Yes, bungee wound itself around the hub, I believe also the gears. Didn't get near the motor cable which is despite what you say, firmly plugged in fully, as I have previously mentioned. The bike has a throttle. The cable you mention that is badly pinched is for the rear light.

Got it. I have a hunch- won't be able to confirm until I modify my meter probes tomorrow- that the controller is not switched on, because something has triggered a warning ( the lights flashing on the display are indicating this). I did try disconnection the brake switches to eliminate them.

What I was trying to say was when I switch the bike on, one light starts flashing, followed 15 seconds later by the entire bottom row of 6 lights flashing on/off. I'm wondering if because of this that power is not getting to the Hall sensors, P A.S, and throttle.

I did try to check for the 5 volts, was thwarted by my meter probes being too large to fit in the back of the connectors, I need to sort that tomorrow. I think that as the diagnostic lights are flashing the power is possibly being inhibited from powering up the controller circuitry. Do you think that's a possibility?

I have now tested the hall sensors and the motor windings using the 'ebike tester' All working as they should be.

Just got hold of an ' ebike tester' I'm about to go out so will be back on the case later on.

O.k I understand , I'll do that test soon.

Yes, I am acutely aware of the dangers. Never worn a watch or jewellery in my life. I'm wise enough in this particular area to know that it doesn't hurt to be reminded , so many thanks. Controller removed from the bike and power source. Completed the tests. shorted out the Live to Neutral connections first. ( Hell of a flash which I was prepared for!) N---G=9.76K N--- Y=9.76K N--- B=9.76K had to use the 200M range doing this test as on lower ranges the readings were continually dropping. L--- G=0.6M L--- Y=0.6M L--- B=0.6M So all good here then?

O.K I understand, I will test tomorrow. thanks for your help.

O.K I will try that tomorrow. I believe I have to discharge the capacitor first by shorting the Live and Ground together, is that correct?

I have already removed the controller from it's housing. All nice and dry in there, and no sign of any overheating of any connectors. I have disconnected all the High current connector blocks, all look brand new, clean, perfect absolutely no signs of overheating. I have a digital voltmeter btw, that I am competent with. I'm a retired electrician.

I removed the guard and the plastic nut. I can now see the flats on the axle are parallel with the slots in the frame in which the axle sits. No damage to the cable- it is as the designer intended.

Ok. I don't have an allen key in my house atm to remove the Metal guard which has to come off before I can pull off the plastic cap. From what I can see at the moment the cable is exiting at about 200 degrees, ( 7 o' clock ). I will do this in the morning. Thanks for your help, much appreciated.