Popps

Getting back to where the problem lies, controller, motor or wiring, does anybody knows or has any information on the circuitry of the wiring of the Carrera crosscity E. Also of the controller Tianjin Santroll WZKD3613KA-FSDWM28-FI, 36V 6 amp. , motor Bafang 8 FUN 36vdc 250w model BF1704H60027-1. Any diagnostic/testing info on the controller and motor would be greatly appreciated.

Hi Nealh, thanks for the pointers. I disconnected and took off the controller and loom and carried out measurements as directed. The loom comprises of the power cable from the battery ( 2 pins ), the cable to the drive motor ( 8 pins in a circle, 1 pin in the centre,) 3 pins are larger than the rest, so I presume they are the phase wires, 1 cable from the brake levers and 1 cable from the Hall sensor. I measured between the + 38v to each to each of the phase wires is 22 Kohms and rising constantly to 40 or 50. The -38v to phases is 19.8 Kohms and staying constant. I repeated this a number of times, always the same. What do you make of it?

Thanks for getting back to me Nealh. Donne as suggested, almost impossible to get voltage readings through double insulated cables. Anyway, the hall sensor is working, led flashing as passage of each magnet, 12 magnets on the disc. Distance seemed OK, but I moved it closer at 1 mm. While the bike was inverted and slow moving of the cranks, I could feel and hear the motor coming on intermittently. I them checked all the connectors, unplugged and reconnected them. Switched everything on and still inverted ( no load), cranked the pedals again the motor did attempt to start but only a few times and intermittently. I then decided to remove the battery, controller and wiring off the frame and reconnect everything back so that I could easier wiggle the connectors to check for bad connections. Things improved, I could fairly consistently get the motor running, but not every time, and I suspect that if I put everything back into the frame, I would be back to square one. The controller seemed to be getting very warm and I wasn't even riding the bike, also the led display was all the time flashing on the"high" led. What do you think, perhaps the controller has had it. I checked all the cable for chaffing and they looked OK. The only place where I couldn't check thoroughly is where the cable passes into the rear wheel spindle and the hub. This could be a problem area I suppose. What are your thoughts. Could the overheating controller be a sign of it's demise, or a problem with the motor?

Another thing, what should the led display be showing when I swith it on. On mine, as I swith on, the bank of 4 led's light up red plus the first Mode (low) also red.

Thanks Nealh Just checked both battery and charger, all good. Battery out of frame and no load at 41.6 v , and connected to charger and charging battery output is 42 v, charger also showing 42v when no load. I presume this tells me the battery is good and holding charge. I had charged the battery a week ago and only checked the voltage this morning. I will now check continuity throughout the cables.

Bought the bike a while back second hand and now cannot get it to power on. The battery seems OK, shows full display on the led screen, but will not dive the motor when I pedal. Is there technical information available that may help me diagnose the problem? Any pointers would be appreciated