Charli

OK, one tick per revolution of the crank pedalling low intensity, two ticks if pedalling hard. I ride a recumbent trike with a mesh seat that supports bum and back. Turns out that one of the tubes holding the pannier rack to the seat had a loose screw and everytime I pushed the pedals the seat moved against this screw. Took almost a week to work it out - the click seemed to be transmitting to everywhere on the trike. Synchronising with the crank doesn't mean the problem is with bottom bracket, chainring, or pedals. This post is to support Peddlin' Pedro above

Thanks Kirstin, esp for speed of reply! And also Woosh for the helpful pic. A bigger circular hole sounds pretty easy. Looking at the pic (which shows the split in the ring) and my bike, I think I can get a thin circular disk to abut the left crank arm where it meets the crank and then i can attach the PAS disk to that. Space should be enough. Then I can sugru the sensor off the corrugated left side of the bottom bracket alongside one of the tubes there. I've used sugru before, tough and if I break it off it'll be quick to replace The handlebar motor idea was just a bit of silliness, but I've now learned that a throttle can be used! Maybe the law will change sometime, but I'm happy with the pedal assist - it forces me to get a bit of exercise Lipo = Lithium Polymer, I discovered after reading about six pages of google liposuction responses I've got an ebike at present - Halfords Carrera Crosscity. Nice but ... The wheels are too small so 1) going up those steep hill/bridges on the towpath with your centre of gravity nearer the back of the bike means big boost means wheelie means I fell off the back and nearly ended up in the canal! and 2) You feel every road bump and towpath cobble (and no suspension doesn't help). And then 3) it's very heavy, which makes foldability only useful as an adjunct to a car, 4) The single spine geometry makes it practically impossible to get a secure lock through the frame and 5) the kids keep nicking it And I really like the simple lines of the shafty, and that it's so quiet I can sneak up on squirrels in the local park

First post - hope I'm doing it right! Hi Kirstin - about the shafty e-bike - I have one of these Dynamics Tempo bikes (since 2014, no problems with it, ever!), but I'm having trouble using it due to failing leg strength so the elec option is very attractive. Please can you give opinions / answers on a few questions The general construction looks fairly easy and woosh look good people, so I'm sure I can get the motor bit sorted. The PAS sensor looks the hard bit , so ... What exactly did woosh do to drill it out? Is it just a matter of making a central hole bigger or do you need to make other mods? What shape is the hole? (I guess not circular as it would then turn on the bracket ... or does it attach to a crank?) Basically, is it likely I could I get it done with a daughter who has workshop tools and skills but won't be experienced at this? Where did you mount the sensor? Do you need any front fork strengthening for the motor, or a torsion arm? I've seen comments that the forks and/or dropouts are weak, though I've had no trouble What's a lipo pack? Presumably it's to do with a battery or battery booster, but the only google I can find refers to liposuction. And in same area, presumably 2s, 3s and 4s refer to numbers of banks of cells which would be attached in series to boost voltage. I doubt I'll want to do this but it's interesting. The controller comes with the kit so presumably the connections are explained? I've seen Micah Toll's stuff on the net on battery building so I have some idea of how it all works And a bit off the wall - why not get a small battery motor to spin the PAS and mount it on the bars? Then the hub motor is pedal-assisting the little battery motor and you don't have to pedal at all. That's almost certainly not legal! Charli