daniellondon

Yes I just thought this too. You reckon any brand will do or do you have any you recommend?

Here’s another picture from the internet with better lighting

Hello, Anybody fancy recommending a spray paint that would closely match this black finish? I have a few scratches so im looking for something that would cover it. I want to avoid those scratch pens and just get a decent spray paint. To me it looks Matt but not sure if it could count as slightly gloss? It’s the bottom section I’m referring to not the main seat tube which is a separate paint. Cheers

I need to see Peter from performance line bearings anyway for general motor maintenance so I might ask him if he can offer me a good deal to replace these too if he has time. He posts a lot on most of the eBike forum and seems like a top notch bloke so contact him if you have any serious issues. He has most spare parts in his workshop..at least the motor related ones.

They charged I think £80 for the soldering so I guess you’re right. Regarding the fit...it’s as tight as the bottom bracket, only very slightly moves. So it might be the actual charging pins that have worn out. I guess the gravity doesn’t help either since the battery is essentially hanging upside down.

On a bike that expensive, £90 seems a bargain. Spent £400 on the light itself. I’m not rich lol but I don’t have a car so this is one of my little luxuries.

Some hopefully good news. I went for a ride today and normally I have two batteries attached like in the picture below but today I only used one battery. I tried using both the top and bottom battery holder and only when the battery was in the top one it kept giving me errors. I’ll do some more testing this week and hopefully it’s only a case of the top battery ports needing replacement like the OP stated. I’ll try some really bumpy routes too many coincidences so I won’t get my hopes up just yet lol.

The light is is honestly amazing so I’d be hesitant to sell it. Nothing comes close. It has a gorgeous day time running light around the edges, has a low and high beam, and automatically comes on when it’s dark or when I’m in a tunnel due to its sensor. From the technical specs it says: 24 V – 60 V DC (75 V max.) So I don’t think it’s physically possible to attach it any other way apart from directly to the battery? Supernova who make the light is a well known Germany company so I doubt they’d sell something that isn’t compatible. I have contacted bosch and Riese and muller to see how they connect it in the factory and if they have had any complaints. I was reading about “voltage sag” which means there’s less voltage if the motor has to work harder on hills. The light does take quite a bit of power so I wouldn’t be surprised if that’s what’s causing it. if not I’ll take it to another eBike shop to see if the original bike shop installed it badly. p.s. here’s a picture or the light for you to admire

Yeah I think so too. Just an idea, but is it also possible that too much power could be drawn from the batteries? I know the light is definitely compatible since Riese / muller use this model on their 45kmh unrestricted versions - I’m just not sure how they install it in the factory...if it’s crimping or if they have some proprietary system. Maybe it’s a coincidence but the error usually happens when I travel up a steep section or if I’m on a section which requires a bit of motor power. And since I weigh 120kg, maybe the motor is being overwhelmed? But I thought the battery management system would be smart enough to deal with this instead of throwing up an error.

Thanks for the reply. I’m attaching a page from the manual for the m99 pro light. This is how it was connected up (they crimped and then soldered when I returned to the eBike shop due to the 530 errors). Do you think there’s any chance it’s because of a loose solder connection with the new light? Or is it just a coincidence that it started happening after the new light installation?

Aah my bad. I thought you replaced the actual (female) socket inside the battery. I did give the terminals a good clean today and it worked well but after I started going up hill and had a few bumps I kept getting 530. I’ve got two battery terminal on my Riese muller delite 2019 so I will use a single battery for now and test each terminal. I’m still thinking that it might be a loose solder connection between the Supernova M99 Pro light (which my eBike store installed for me) - this is connected to the battery. The m99 pro uses the 12v connection straight from the battery since it’s so powerful. Since it’s a series circuit then I assume it the light loses power for a second then the whole circuit breaks which causes error 530. I may be wrong. They tried crimping it originally but I also kept getting the error so they soldered it instead. Anyway I’ll keep investigating. Cheers

Hi, thanks for the reply! Is it this one by any chance? Bosch Connection Cable for Powerpack Rack https://www.wiggle.co.uk/bosch-connection-cable-for-powerpack-rack There’s also another option: Bosch Cable PowerPack Frame https://www.wiggle.co.uk/bosch-cable-powerpack-frame And I saw a video on YouTube (see attached picture) of a person taking a bosch battery pack apart and the cables attached to the logic board / BMS look completely different than what’s shown on wiggle. Do you have to cut the wires apart and manually connect them somehow? Sorry I’m a DIY newbie and I’ll probably take it to an expert but I’m just trying to understand. Thanks! P.S. if my local bike shop isn’t able to help I’m happy to send it for you to do for a few quid if you’d be up to it? I have a dual battery set up so I will test both individually on a long ride and see which battery needs fixing (might not be a problem with the actual battery since the problem is intermittent, but I’ll try to find out).

Hello, Getting this problem a lot recently on my Riese and muller although I think it’s something to do with bad soldering since it only started happening after I upgraded to the m99 pro which was soldered onto the motor since it’s 12v. in case my issue is the same as yours, where did you get the replacement wiring loom? Don’t think I could do it myself but I will take it to an expert thanks

So I crashed my Riese & Muller Delite ebike yesterday on a tarmac road. Luckily I wasn’t hurt apart from a few scratches and bruises. Anyway, apart from the front light falling out and a few surfaces scratches; the main damage to the bike appears to be a really strong clicking or possibly grinding sound at a certain part of the pedal revolution, there’s also some added resistance at this certain point. The bike landed on the left side so I think some force was applied to the left pedal while it was sliding across the floor. In your opinion guys, is this likely to be crank arm / crankset damage or could the bearing/cog of the internal motor have gotten twisted out of place? And how is a repair likely to cost either of the crankset and/or the whole Bosch motor? Obviously I have insurance on such an expensive bike so fortunately that will cover most of the costs. it has a Rohloff gearing system with a chain by the way, not the carbon drive.

Thanks for all the replies. I'm lucky enough to have the Rohloff Hub which electronic shifting and my usual riding style is keeping it in 8th gear when i'm at a stop, then gear 10 a few seconds after I start pedalling and progressively shift towards 14 when i'm on a free straight without much traffic. When i'm taking off from the traffic lights i definitely think it goes to turbo straight away due to the amount of extra torque i'm having to exert. What then seems confusing is that when i'm on the highest gear 14 it still feels like it's on turbo mode even though i'm not putting in that much pedal torque. I did a test and I could feel a big difference between eMTB mode and Tour mode when I was in 14th gear but not exerting that much effort. However, since it was meant for off-roading i'll try to find some trails outside of London next week.