Yves

It works!!! I did my first test drive today in my street. Thanks a lot guys! Couldn't achieve this without the help of this forum! Regards

Oh i see thanks !

I measured 41 Volts output. So i guess my battery still works? Why is the output bigger than the theoretical 36Volt? Regards

Ok thanks guys, i also believe my controller is blown up instead of the battery. On the battery, there is a button to check if the battery is charged. When i push the button i can see the battery is still fully charged...

Damn, looks like positive and negative on the controller were switched... got it connected now in the right way but nothing happens anymore... i suppose my battery is broken..?

Hi, I bought a conversion kit on alibaba(motor + controller) My friend's electric motor was broken and he didnt want to repair it. So I got my battery from him. I toke off his controller and solded mine to the battery case. Once I had put the battery in its case, I smelled something burned and saw some smoke coming out of the battery...(not much, very little) What am i doing wrong? Is the battery not fit for the controller/ system? According to me i have connected the wires in the correct way. In the attachment you can see some of the pictures i have taken. Regards

You mean that I should attach the battery negative to the controller negative and the battery positive to the contoller positive ? Sry my English is not that good...

Hi, My goal is to try to build my own electric bike from an old womansbike. I bought an electric motor with controller and managed to make it work. Although I started with lead acid batteries, I was happy to achieve this. My collegue had an electric bike but his middle motor was broken and couldnt be repaired so he gave his bike to me. I was interested because he had a lithium battery with the same voltage as my bike (36V) My question before i blow something up...: can I just detach his lithium battery and connect the positive and negative to my controller without doing harm to my controller or the Li battery? In the attachment you can see the battery (samsung) with his controller and my motor with my controller (chinese) I want to use my controller (instead of his) because I dont know the function of all the wires attached to his controller. Regards

Hi, this would be the battery pack i would like to buy. (See below) I wanted to ask you guys first, before i make stupid decisions. What does the 50M stands for? Because i see on their website this make a big difference in the buying price. https://enerprof.de/en/ebike-batteries/softpacks/36v-10s-batteries/435/softpack-battery-36v-15-ah-bms-20a-xlr-3-with-50m?c=90

Thanks, Ok, at least this looks a lot safer and easier to charge... My controller has sort kind of cable lugs at the end. Should I cut these off and solder a XT90 connector on it? (see attachment) What about the gauge? If the cable thickness of the controller and the battery pack are not the same, could this produce heat or an unsafe circuit? Will it be possible to charge without deconnecting the battery from the controller and the system? regards and thanks for the help Yves

Hi Looking for a soft pack as i will make the case myself. Yes the capacity of 20 aH is more then i would normally need but was asuming i would get that for the same price... 12 to 14 aH would be enough. Regards

Ok.., then what battery do you propose? Where do I buy a decent one?

what if i replace the agm batteries with this one: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000334528888.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.5d8a20efdgzvAG&algo_pvid=b64d7375-f2d8-4bd0-afd5-0d8e0cb9c33c&algo_expid=b64d7375-f2d8-4bd0-afd5-0d8e0cb9c33c8&btsid=0ab50f4915923336953613809e4f59&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_ because i see the price for a charger for agm is almost the same... here i have a li ion battery + charger. + would be safer i guess? + more capacity. Will i still need fuses in this case? regards Yves

So could it work with the circuit I drawed? With the two switches ? Thx Yves

Hi, The batteries are 14 aH. Theoretically, I determined a few months ago that this capacity would be enough for about 7 Miles. The distance to my work place is 1,8 Miles. ( going Home at noon, makes 4x1.8 = 7.2 Miles. ) I was not able to test it’s range as i don’t have a charger or know how to charge the batteries... My batteries would be down after my first test and I would not be able to recharge. I could charge at the mains at work. Yves

Hi, Thanks! [mention=20993]Andy-Mat[/mention], yes indeed use GLA batteries...The reason why I chose these batteries is because with my limited knowledge of electricity and e-bikes, I wanted to use cheap batteries. All the things I know are learned from YouTube. Just got fascinated about e-bikes. I wanted to start somewhere although I knew Li batteries were a better buy in terms of efficiency. Wanted to be sure that the things I learned, also worked. So that's why I started using GLA's. The solar panel is my ultimate goal. When I go to work, my bike stands on the parking lot for 8 hours, would it not be nice if I could just take my bike and drive home without having to plug it in? . But you are absolutely right, for now I should first start to get the batteries charged with a normal charger and get more experienced in the electric system and batteries + add more efficiency to the bike. First, I would like my charger to be attached to my bike, so I don't need to charge at home. Is this possible with the circuit as mentioned below? My guess the controller I got is not that intelligent... As [mention=19726]sjpt[/mention] mentioned, in that case should there only be one charger or controller connected? What if I use switches in the circuit? For example, when I want to charge, I could close switch 1 and open switch 2?

Hi, I made my first electric bike with a conversion kit I got from the internet. I attached 3 12V batteries to a 36V controller. The controller has several wires going to the brakes, motor (36V, 350W), brake lights, on/off switch etc... (in the picture below you can see the circuit as it is now => black circuit) My question is how to deal with charging. I tried to find the answer on youtube but most of the time, you don't get the right answer for conversion kits. What I would like to do is to put on a small solar panel (red circuit) + an additional charger (blue circuit). The additional charger would be used when I don't have enough power from the solar panel. Would this be the right way to connect the charger and solar panels to the bike? (just parallel over the batteries?) + Is it safe to keep these circuits all connected, even if I switch the batteries on? Thx Yves

Hi, The bike Works! thx [mention=6303]Woosh[/mention] I have got a flipflop hub. I mounted the motor on the fixed side. Last weekend, I drove the bike in my street Today, I Connected the pedals with the freewheel with a new chain. I will try out how that works, but I guess that should not be a problem. Thx guys!

Ok, I got the new wheel I mentioned. The freewheel that was delivered together with the motor indeed fits this wheel. Only one problem , the freewheel is freewheeling counter clockwise, and is fixed when turning clockwise. I suppose in this case, I would drive backwards when i put the motor on the bike...? So i should need another freewheel?

Ok thx, so the Wheel i showed should work?

Hi, would the following wheel work? https://webshop.vlechtservice.nl/en/webshop/wielen-nieuw/a-wiel-622-700c-28/flipflop-xpace-zwart/ They would make the wheel stronger for me as it is a heavy bike. If I choose a fixed hub, wont the pedals spin if i start the motor? Or is that just the purpose, so that my manual peddeling is supported by the motor?

Oh ok !

Is the 3,5 cm diameter and the counted TPI a normal standard? Or should I watch out for different measurements of threads?

Ok i will thx

Yes i also think so , and what if i find a normal wheel with thread on it? If i flip the Wheel over and I dont use the adapter? ( it could be that i have another bike at my grandmothers place that has not been used for years)