Matt hignett

Sorry for the slow response, I have not yet put the order in because I had a terminal disaster on my hand bike. I snapped the frame! So I will hopefully get this welded over the next week or two and then look at ordering the relevant parts from China. Again, sorry for my slow response and here’s a photo to show you the damage. I’m quite proud that someone with arm function can destroy a mountain bike!

Noted. I have typically used the powe on/off button for any issues such as the aforementione. It’s very nicely placed and in easy reach. I was presuming the ee screen I specc’ed would have an associated power on/off button? If not then I will definitely need a kill switch!

Ah the H was consumed in the summer post that ride, the latter photo was in December just gone, after discovering a new trail off an old railway line, that was followed by a bacon sarnie and obligatory coffee! thanks so much for the extension cable info, that’s idea. I’ll update the spec and post tomorrow once it’s ready for purchasing.

Brilliant, thanks for this. My issue is the display is , in essence 1metre away from the thumb throttle due to the type of handbike I own. If uou look at the attached phot closely you can see the display on one handlebar and the throtttle on the other under the gear selector.. The controller box in attached To the backrest and the battery on the rear rack.My fear is the cabke you’ve highlighted, by the photos, isn’t long enough to selerste the screen that far away from the throttle. Maybe I could buy two and run them Separately to the Controller ?

Thansk! I’ll need to extend the connection from the controller to the motor, the display and throttle. I was hoping I could Purchase extender cables to fit. s everything else is ok, just the; throttle extension? Battery is suitable? Can you advise on the cable? thanks as ever. I’ll just have to wait till shipment from China arrives. Literally ready to purchase right away

thanks for the information. I have decided not to bother getting a replacement battery and just go for a totally new setup, as close to a “plug and play” system as possible. It seems your can’t get a decent battery in the uk with a reasonable amount of mAh at the moment that is a dolphin type configuration. anyway, I have specc’ed to the best of my ability anshstem, without a replacement motor and have attached a photo before purchasing. Is this correct? my theory with a plug and play is that even someone inexperienced like me should be able to plug it together and get it working! thoughts?

Thanks for the info, I’ll order some appropriate grease and follow the instructions (Then report back on it). I cannot thank you enough with regards to all the advice and£ information you’ve given me. I’ll be ordering a battery first thing Monday and then spec a new controller/display. My Feeling is that the New battery will rectify the situation but isn’t a long term solution. The battery is 3 years old however having a current control setup with KT controller seems the most reliable route to go. I’ll stick around the 750w setup as it provide good levels of assist vs price. I’d hopefully run two batteries with this new setup to so I can increase range. Does this seem like a good solution overall (short and long term solutions)? thanks as ever

I have no clue if it is current or speeed controller. I have seen it at 700w in PAS1 when going up steep inclines for certain. However it doesn’t typically go much last 300w when in false flats or general use. the motor noise is sounds more mechanical, typically after 30minutes use. How do I regrease inside? And with regards to the vw,Stev drop off, would you predict it’s the battery and worthies purchasing a replacement as per my other message? I so grateful for your assistance, to everyone‘s! Definitely will be reading More about this throughout the bday. It’s fast becoming a big interest of mine!

Hi Ben, thank you for pitching in and assisting. I find the dual battery setup fascinating and that PAS3 is more economical, it’s definitely what I would like to to long term. especially if it uses less battery which means the range I can travel will go up! Also thank you for the info on the battery supplier, I’m sure this will come in handy

Thank you for the information, my feeling is to stick with the current hub, it gets a bit noisy after half an hour but would be a,lot easier than trying to source a 24” hub/wheel without having to get a hub laced to a rim. The idea of going for a substantial controller and costly battery doesn’t rally appeal. My current setup has been awesome for 3 years and really I just want the reliability and effectiveness of what I have. If by changing the controller and screen for a KT setup I get the advantage of longevity in battery health and PAS levels then I think that’s a fair gain for the cost. Would you agree?

the only writing/info on the hub is on the attached photos. I’m more than happy to take more from other angles is required?

Firstly to all, thank you for the information and advice. As I could source a battery rather quickly and this one appears to be on its way out, it seems like a ‘quick fix’ would be to get another battery for my current setup. I could have the battery delivered within a few days allowing me to get out and use my handbike with the knowledge that I’m not going to have a breakdown 20km away from home in a woodland/field. To note, this is a temporary fix for a month or two with a reconditioned battery being available for circa £100. Although the voltage meter hasn’t yet arrived (Purchased from eBay), I have a volt display on the lcd screen on my current setup. So with a little faith I went out on a trail I know this morning and crossed my fingers for some luck. To my surprise I made it on the 19km route with no power loss. I spent the time monitoring the readout and noticed a drop from 42v to 38v after the hour long ride. At times under load it dropped to 36v near the end of the ride going up an incline. I fully expected it to die on me but it Voltage drop I would presume highlights the battery condition not being great. Moreso the lcd screen indicated 3/5 bars of battery left with the battery indicator sub menu on the screen stating 60% at the end of the ride. This has always been around the amount of battery use on this particular route. I also paid attention to the amount of watts I was using upon pulling off, on various small gradients and when cruising along. At no time did it constantly draw 700w! Cruising was circa 100-300w and inclined was a variation up to around 550w. the gradients weren’t significant on this route. So my beginners understanding is the drop in voltage indicates the battery isn’t healthy and needs resolving. The long term solution is to change from a speed control to a current control Setup. But for now, getting a replacement battery is the “quick fix” whilst speccing up a new controller etc.... yes/no/Matt your talking Rubbish.

Thanks ever so much! I will spec up a controller etc this coming weekend. Either way, it appears that you expect the battery is the current issue with the setup I currently have on the bike? So with this in mind, first thing is to replace the battery like for like. I just don’t want to pay for a new battery and it not solve the current issue and then pay for a KT controller and display to then have to buy another battery Down the line. It would make more sense to buy a full conversion ‘kit’ and jump to 48v/1000w to gain addition range. My current plan was to buy an additional battery for longer rides with friends. also, is there any way of learning more around the setup/installation/terminology?articles/posts/etc. You’ve been such a help and really knowledgable, I’d love to learn more to understand for future reference. thanks as ever

I’ve had a look through the advanced settings within the lcd, there is nothing that offers a mode switch from current to speed control. The only offering is wheel size and I would presume that is to do with configuring the km/h display an accurate read. The advanced setting menu isn’t very advanced in it‘s offerings. with regards to swapping over to a KT/keunteng controller and screen setup, will they work harmoniously with the rear wheel and battery I have? Where can I purchase if so from the UK? I think long term, this is probably a better idea for battery life/longevity and to use assist Levels dependant on the terrain I am on. Is swapping out to a KT/keunteng controller easy to wire up? thank you in advance! So helpful and humbled by your assistance.

Oh and if required, what controller would interface with my current setup in order to have a ‘current control setup’ opposed to a ‘speed control setup’. Please excuse my lack of technical terminology/understanding. I’m currently reading a lot of posts on the forum to try and seek knowledge as I’m keen to become knowledgable