silversurfer

Well with advice from Flecc, Nealh and Scorpio and some careful repairs I now have my trusty flying machine back in action! A few 'red herrings' along the way just added to the satisfaction of hearing it (almost silently!) spin into action. Stripping the rotor out identified the problem? The hub was rubbing tight on the stator winding in one place.....(no idea why) The inner surface of the rotor looked to be coated with a black film....like a PTFE pan! (but partly worn through) The two sealed bearings were smooth, the jerky feel was as I though, the pull of the magnets.The high spot on the stator (probably 2 or 3 thou was dressed off with a fine file. This tight sticking spot was why it would not 'reverse' This plus the 'overgearing' via the sun/planet gears just could not spin the wheel backwards....bit like trying to push start a car in 1st gear! The one way carrier was as I suspected, OK. part of the normal epicyclic train. So, all reassembled and the fiddly wiring plugs sealed up it hummed into action. I wonder, if my washing the bike after a muddy run, then the next day it was noisy rough....the one poor hall sensor contact(wet when opened up) may have jiggered the motor? Oh, when I washed the pedal sensor disc....it fell into a dozen pieces, but I use the bike on throttle anyway!!! A great outcome, well pleased, thanks Pedlecs!

Hi Scorpio, your pic of open'ed up motor (24 volt?) confirms what I think, an internal bearing...that might have sized on my motor? You comment on stripping useful, as I once open up another brushless motor...the magnets were vicious, finger choppers! So far not ordered anything as I do not know what I will need, and the motor is 12 year old,probably obsolete/superseded. I can't see any real damage, v slight wear on nylon gears and the jury still out on the 'one way'? clutch/carrier. Can you say if yours turns just one way, locking in reverse? exciting weekend ahead I think....more familiar with classic Mopeds !

Hi ,Update, had another look at motor, it seems rather stiff to turn magnet/cover, which drives the sun wheel. Maybe this is the 'bumpy' action on the magnets and normal? The clearance around winding seems( with some 002" brass shim stock) more tight over on one side. With a 'mock up' of the wheel in a vice, very slightly turning the magnet cover enables the wheel to move slightly in correct direction. Forcing the wheel 'backwards' (and aiding magnet cover backwards to move will allow some backward movement. (The action of 'overgearing' an epicyclic train does this). SO....I think the one way ratchet carrier is functioning a it should. Some stiffness in the motor innards....( a sleeve bearing?) might be the fault.....but opening the motor ....I need further advice! forgot some pics, oh the gears are not cracked, it was a scratch mark, but well spotted Flecc! thanks Ted

Thanks for your useful advice. I am a bit confused! The fact that the bike would no longer wheel backwards after knocking/cut out. Then WOULD motor a few mins later BUT front wheel no longer able to be reverse direction made me think something mechanical had jammed? The 3 planet gear carrier seems like a free wheel and I assumed the locked direction was to enable the epicyclic gearing to function. IF it must rotate both ways it certainly is faulty. I have not delved into the motor, it seemed 'uncooked' but is there a 'clutch' inside it? I boxed it back up until new gears are ordered but I could have another look at the motor unit? Pity it has failed, it has been a nice bike keep my fingers crossed! Ted

Well, the nylon gears, whilst no missing teeth (a reason for the mysterious banging?) they looked a bit 'slack/sloppy' on the ring gear, the centre running area of the gears was probably 0.010" (ten thou) worn. The puzzle is the sun/pinion wheel carrier. It seems like a one way ratchet? It moves smoothly....but will not permit reverse direction? Which means the wheel, when mounted will not permit the bike to be wheeled backwards...(it was possible before, but, with some slight resistance). I see replacement gears are avail from China for £6.00 a set ? or maybe £6.00 each, depends which seller's copy I read! There was no bad smell from the electrical motor, so probably OK? What I found when slitting open the cable connection 'sausage' was water ! and some 'green' on tiny transistor feeds.....could this have induced an electrical 'switching' bang? (I had a hall effect transistor fail in a Powerbike years ago and it made the motor do a regular 'bang' . Probably worth ordering new gears, some are white, some are blue? Not sure if the grease is specific for nylon? I have HMP 'moly' bearing grease. Do you think the carrier/one way clutch is a problem? I can always lift the front if needed! Thanks for your time to read this essay! regards Ted

Hi Flecc, I have picked your brains a few times on this forum, always valuable guidance. Some of my moped friends now ride electrics (some are 'overpowered home built hybrid's! ) Especially as now moped'ing/biking is not permitted. Yes my MK 1 Torq, (laid up for 4 years! when original battery died was brought back to use when 'Jimmy' ? re-cell'ed it. But, not used bike much in last year, (moped'ing!) Yesterday did a nice 10 mile run on some muddy bridleways and later washed bike down. Today went out again and it had the lack of power/noise. I wonder if, reading your notes on water ingress it may have caused the noisy motor? certainly it was more noticeable today. Anyway, I will study your notes/guidance and investigate. Many thanks Ted

Hi Many thanks for your prompt reply. Well I could certainly remove the wheel/unplug short loom. I assume I need to remove the 6 screws and side cover? I stripped a Power bike motor once to replace a hall transistor, (with advice from here!) the magnets were finger trapping!!! Nothing looks removable on the other side. It was always a bit 'stiff' to wheel backwards but now locking up if i try....hope nothing broke as I guess no spares now (no longer imported and it is 12 years old now! Thanks for valued advice, Ted

Hi, my trusty MK.1 Torq has always had a bit of a growl y motor but reliable. A recelle'd battery last year gave it a new lease of life. But to day it seemed to use up battery capacity fairly quickly and motor was not pulling as well/more noisy on a 4 mile trip. Then on a gentle climb, it gave a couple of knocking noise's and cut out. It was a bit warm. Left it 10min and it worked again but 1 mile on it knocked again/stopped. Pedel'ed it home and cool, it ran-up the wheel OK, but noisy and it is now impossible to turn wheel backwards? I am reasonably practical (as a classic moped rider) but these powerful hub motor magnets and procedural striping needs advice, which would be gratefully received, thanks Ted

Pickup sensor plug tight/dry (has 7 tiny pins!) even tried wafting a tiny magnet past it but no effect on computer. can't really see it being faulty as bike has only done 200km. Cable goes into crank motor then to handlebars.....perhaps problem there, but motor functions OK. Suspect computer glitch as it has defaulted to miles, something I could not previously do on menu options and the momentary flashing up false speed ??? Looks like a USB port on base?

Update, the bike is probably a French built Neomouv Kalyso CD badge as 'Macadam' by Leclerc, I think Juicybikes sell them, perhaps I should ask them for advice?

Thanks for prompt reply, Macadam bikes seem to be publicized on internet, perhaps more known in France? Very nice build quality. Anyway, it was bought on an extended holiday in France. The crank motor has 4 power assist settings accessed via handle bar button pad and also by + - buttons on computer display. Both can enable scroll through information options and alter power, but the speed/distance/trip log is out of action. Only once, on my last run of 10km did it flash up number 45? for a second then went dead? I have checked the magnet spoke/pick up are in line, even temp. moved the pickup closer but had no effect. There are tiny square 'ports' on back of handlebar computer....maybe for other data inputs but no real instructions, only how to set handlebars etc! How I hate electronics!!!

Last summer I bought a nice French build Makadam crank motor bike from Leclerc supermarket in Rennes. brought it home and done prob.done 200kms on it so far. Now the computer shows power/energy setting but no speed/distance/trip record and it has defaulted to miles display? but just shows 9999.9. Its under guarantee but a long way to go back to Rennes! any ideas welcome, thanks.

Hi Jonah, big hickup ! after the wife did a proper pedal around test, even with the seat spring stem removed it is too tall for her. So, rather than chase around finding a friendly dealer I am going to put the bike on ebay after Christmas, if you have a lead to a S/H battery/charger I could add a link to it in my add. Pity, it is certainly a quality piece of kit, thanks for everybody's input on this thread. silversurfer

Hi Jonah, thanks for your offer.I will try to get the bike to a local dealer in next week or so, probably after Christmas. A used battery/charger at a reasonable price would be a good compromise. I thought the battery would be expensive, but almost £400 +£150 ish for a charger would be a bridge too far? The Derby supplier has replied, it has a mk 1 motor. This makes the bike 2013/4, all be it new. Another hickup...my wife says it may be too tall for her! (28! wheels) she can just manage my 26" torqu. See what the test brings. best wishes for christmas, silversurfer

Many thanks for your comments, less electronics is fine by me and a less stressed motor sounds sensible in my case. Just hope I can find an earlier model battery suitable for the pin config. Await Derby response, thanks again, silversurfer

Thanks for your valued comments, I am not family with Ebike power units, My Torqe is 10 years old, quick enough on the level but struggles on climbs, a small dia hub motor and a large dia. wheel. Crank motors + rear hub gears seem to be answer, but spending a few hours doing some internet reading today seem to indicate motor+ pedal power can overload Shimano hub parts? But, my wife is not that fit! Also agree, it is probably circa 2013/4, (no speedo/computer) you say model 1 motor? is that good? I read model 2 was noisy /troublesome? Anyway, hopefully Derby Cycles will supply info. from their records and I can seek a trial battery....no 'electrical' smells when I lifted the cable cover, so fingers crossed!

Thanks to whoever translated this message? I have checked the 5 pin config. from the front it is 1 bare, 2, brown thin, 3, white thin, 4,red thick, 5, black thick . motor no. 1779 as pics show. silversurfer

Kundenservice Derby Cycle 21:10 (5 minutes ago) to me Sehr geehrte Damen und Herren, wir bedanken uns für Ihre Anfrage und bestätigen den Eingang in unserem System. Es wurde die folgende Bearbeitungsnummer erstellt: 2018121510001101 Bitte geben Sie bei weiteren Fragen zu diesem Fall die oben genannte Bearbeitungsnummer an. Wir werden den Vorgang schnellstmöglich bearbeiten. Mit freundlichen Grüßen This is reply from Derby Cycles....any idea what the say? silversurfer

Many thanks to you all for your thoughts. I visited the charity shop today, they told me they get a lot of good bikes in from a prison ! Being donated from business etc. where they are serviced by prisoners, so not able to source origin. There are no visable wires to service a multi display in the centre of handlebars? Just the L/H on/off mode switch. Other than a few scratches (in transport?) the bike is, to all intents, new. I will take the advice to contact Derby Cycles with frame No. that should identify what motor is fitted. And there is a Kalkhoff dealer near Chester 20 miles from here, perhaps they will pop a suitable battery on to see if it powers up. Without prior knowledge/wiring diagram my digital meter probably will not help much. Any further comments still welcome. My Torque seems very basic by comparison! silversurfer

I took a few in my garage, bit dim but might help, motor pic is from underside view...it mat be missing a square central speed/computer, however there are no surplus wires to feed this? I just see one in internet pics on similar bike?

Thanks for advice, no idea which version I have? bought 2 months ago, but it may have been in the warehouse for months? frame no. D2EBD 500+1 made by Derby Cycles, Germany. How it became separated from it's battery/charger is a mystery. No markings on mat black motor, looks like a trip to a Kalkhoff dealer? silversurfer

[ Thanks for advice, not sure where to find posts on Impulse 2? been through 10 pages on the batteries/motors section... need to find how to do a search! Oh, i have a digital meter if it is poss to check for continuity. Probably not possible to temp. wire up my 2 pin 36 V Torque battery to the 5 pin? as I do not know pin config and I guess there is no link to the handlebar selector or crank motion sensor? Think I need to refit the bike rack to the car ! silversurfer

Hi, approx. 3 months ago, with Flecc’s advice and Jimmy the battery specialist re-celling my battery I finally have my Ezee Torque mk 1 back into action after 6 years in ‘sleep mode’ (the bike not me!) My wife now wants to try ebike,ing.... (We are in our 70s but can still pedal a bit, with help). I spotted a Raleigh Impulse ‘Testrad’? Step through, virtually new, with keys (‘pips’ still on tyres) Looks like a Kalkoff Impulse? 8 speed shimano hub gears, front hub dynamo, hydraulic brakes, telescopic forks, 28” tyres. It was being sold at our local charity warehouse (they get a lot of ex. Catalogue returns). And so, for a couple of hundred £ it was mine....wow! BUT, it was missing battery and charger! The battery slots behind seat down tube (as Torque) but has 5 pin contacts. And before I spend £300+? on a battery and charger, I would like to check the bike is functional (I read on internet similar bikes 2016? had a crank motor model 2? that failed/were recalled. Any advice/guidance would be gratefully received, I have the frame no. serial/PN nos. + photos, If it helps, the bike has a supplier sticker address in Cloppenburg, Germany! Have I bought a lemon....Silversurfer.

Thanks for prompt relies, I will do a bit of phoning tomorrow, let you know how I get on, silversurfer

Hi, some years since I posted on this site...some medical problems caused me to 'hang up' my excellent Torq bike.7 years ago,(50 Cycles, circa 2007 model) But I am rather better now and want to get fit again! The battery (XH3 70-10J S/N;JGJDJC100041) is good for about 1 mile! I have carefully opened it up, has 10 rectangular stainless cells and some electronics, very nice tidy piece of work. I have searched a couple of local Merseyside electric bike shops (Giant dealers) they said whilst one of their 36v batteries could work (strapped to the carrier) could not say if the bike controller would recognise the battery? However, as far as I can see the current battery just puts 36v out, without any extra sensing wires? I would like to get my existing battery case re-celled (Ezee no longer imported into UK) Any suggestions who might do this work? An electronics friend said Panasonic make the best lithium cells ? I understand there is a firm in Southampton who do this? Sorry this is a bit long winded, if you got this far, many thanks for any advice you have. silversurfer