Lawman

Now your asking! I’ll try find out.

According to the manual it has a 200 watt motor. It comes with a small remote that allows you to switch from a lower speed to a higher speed with around 9 miles distance on a 2.5 hour charge.

Okay thanks. Would this do as a replacement do you think? It's about the same physical size but 7Ah instead of the 4Ah. I take it the BMS on that will be different, does it matter? Aleaivy new 36V 7Ah 10S2P 18650 Rechargeable battery pack 7000mAh modified Bicycles,electric vehicle 42V Protection PCB Aleaivy I probed B9 referencing to B-, it looks like B9 is almost dead too then.

Perfect, thank you! I found another mutimeter and it can read volts, with no auto detect. B1: 0.1 volts B2: 0.1 volts B3: 3.8 volts B4: 7.6 volts B5: 11.5 volts B6: 14.6 volts B7: 18 volts B8: 22 volts B9: 3.3 volts

Morning, Can I simply measure the voltage by putting the multimeter electrode directly on each cells positive and negative ends or will that create a short due to the way they are attached to each other?

My multi meter was set to auto detect, B1/B2 immediately went to 0 ohms while the rest gave a voltage reading. Those readings where taken from the BMS, when it was still connected to the battery. Tomorrow morning I will pull the multi-pin connector on the BMS to switch off the BMS, and measure the voltage of the pack directly on the cells. Cheers

Just had a better look at the BMS. There is corrosion between pins B1 and B2 and light corrosion over most of the circuit boards. Possibly been taken out in the rain at some point. One R005 resistor is missing.

And we have some readings! B1: 0 ohms B2: 0 ohms B3: 4.0 volts B4: 7.9 volts B5: 11.8 volts B6: 15.5 volts B7: 19.4 volts B8: 23.3 volts B9: 22.8 volts B+: 26.3 volts

Yeah that makes sense, thank you and yes I am in the back garden.

Ive disconnected the BMS and removed all the ESD tape, and put some ESD tape back under the BMS so it doesnt short on the cells if it moves. I dont understand sorry, where is Black on B- 7 red probe on b1+ on the battery? battery negative 7, red on battery one positive? Honestly I'll get there, but just now its like trying to teach an old dog new tricks. Did electronic engineering a long long time ago.... Bare with me, got it, its on the underside of the BMS. B+, B9, B8, B7, B6, B5, B4, B3, B2 and B1 are all positive? and B- is negative? So I can put the black meter probe on B-, then take positive readings for all B+, B9, B8, B7, B6, B5, B4, B3, B2 and B1 including B+ is that correct? Cheers

I cant get my head round how to measure the banks individually. I watched a load of videos and researched on a lot of forums over the past few weeks but if i'm honest im a bit scared in case the thing goes bang if I measure the wrong terminals and create a short? Had an Iphone battery blow up and it wasn't good fun at all. Its a Nilox Doc skateboard. Sorry its not a bike. They do bikes too though. I can try find another forum if I shouldn't be posting in here. Cheers

Hi all I have a 36V 20 Cell Li-ion battery, it wouldn't take a charge when connected to the original charger via the charging socket so I removed the battery and managed to get it charging again with the charger connected directly to the BMS. I wrongly assumed it was permanently fixed and left it for a few days but it drained and now the battery no longer accepts a charge no matter what I do. The battery is now at 26V and im guessing some or all of the cells are very low on voltage? Is there any hope for this battery, can it be fixed? It looks brand new and seems such a waste!