Jaypeedee

Good news to report. I took the clutch assembly off and thoroughly washed it with Holts brake cleaner. All then seemed doing as it should but I followed Saneagle's advice and gave it some 3 in 1. There is no access directly to the rollers and springs as the side plates are riveted on but I figured 3 in 1 is pretty thin and would find its way in by capillary action if applied liberally to the centre bush and left for a couple of days. I applied lithium grease to the cogs and reassembled today. On a trial ride of several miles with deliberate stopping and starting it is working perfectly. Never saw any rust but Saneagle's advice has done the trick. I would have no qualms about replacing the clutch now but the mechanism seems so beautifully simple I think it would last many miles before that became necessary. Repeat treatment might be needed after another 5 years. For what it is worth yosepower.co.uk told me a 2020 motor was now discontinued and I should consider replacing with new. Maybe I got the wrong guy on a bad day because I think my motor has been exceptional value for money and looks to be well built now I have seen it from the inside.

I have now removed the wheel and extracted the motor from the hub. There was no need to remove the freewheel/cassette to get at the screws. So far I have not been able to find any identifying marks indicating which motor I have. The hub has RP engraved inside it and the clutch assembly has a rotational arrow and a number HC20200503ZY engraved on it looking like a manufacture date. The diameter of the disc holding all together is 72mm. The whole thing needs a circlip to be removed to get it off and I am waiting for circlip pliers from Ebay. Is there anything here which identifies my motor to more experienced eyes and what replacement part I need?

Hi Saneagle, I t exits not quite vertically down but about 5 o'clock. Looks like I will need to post some photos when I get it apart.

Thanks again guys. Where would I be without you. I thought maybe I had got lucky and turning it upside down had dislodged a foreign body but I took the bike out this morning and - I should be so lucky huh? Same old trouble but having a better idea how it works I could sense the clutch biting after a few blips of the throttle. Had to do this a few times before it started to behave. I think the difference is we had a frost last night and I guess there is grease that becomes solid at low temperatures. So it must all come apart. I had found Yosepower in UK and they asked me for the serial number. Can't see it at the moment so I guess it is either behind the freewheel or somewhere inside. I see I should be able to remove the screws without necessarily taking the freewheel off. Yosepower in UK appear to be in a bike shop about 10 miles away so maybe I can take the clutch there to pick up a replacement. In videos I have seen the rollers and springs look as if they are meant to be clear of all grease but not accessible without some destruction. So maybe a good flush will do the trick once the clutch is removed. The gears clearly need grease which I take to be silicone I see can be had on Ebay, unless plumbers seal grease will also do for this.

I have 6 cross head screws which look as though they are stainless. Does that determine which motor I have and from that can I order a new clutch ? All the ones I have seen say 36 teeth but no info specific to Yose so maybe they are pretty universal. As is so often the way I went out to my shed this morning, lifted the back wheel, pressed the throttle and bingo instant drive; turned it upside down and turn the crank off and on and I simply cannot get it to misbehave. It is 10deg here and the problem first occurred when it was a lot colder so maybe some grease was a lot thicker or turning it upside down has dislodged a foreign body. Replacement or flushing still seems a good idea.

Thanks Guys. This is all really helpful and encouraging. I will have to get the wheel off and post some photos for comment. The Yose site shows a planetary gear assembly for an AKM motor but says it is 40teeth and out of stock. Elsewhere I can see numerous assemblies with 36 teeth at wildly varying prices. All looks do-able once I have it apart. If I can get the right part it almost looks more sure fire to replace than clean it.

I have just been watching some YouTube videos and I see I was wrong about the clutch but if they all work along similar lines I now have a better idea.Will have to look see how easy it is to free up the rollers or if the whole clutch has to be replaced.

Thanks a lot guys. It looks as if we likely have a fix. It sounds as if the "clutch" is something akin to what you find in in a recoil starter for an outboard so I am familiar with them. The wheel is still on the bike and it is sort of usable for short journeys to local shops and because of other things on hand I might not be able to get to grips with it for a little while. Does anybody know if there is a photo or video to be found on the web indicating how I get inside it, and what will confront me when I do, or is it all quite obvious when you look at it? I suppose it is too much to hope there is a pdf workshop manual in english to be found anywhere? I am a diyer with a have a go attitude but it is nice to have any advance info available

The motor whirrs but does not engage though after several tries it does seem to engage OK and then generally continues working OK for the rest of the outing but sometimes recurs. Your suggestion of sticking clutch does seem to fit and that would explain why blipping the throttle means it then responds to the pedals if it frees the clutch. The cable comes out at almost 5 o'clock. Any help how to fix this very much appreciated.

I have had a Yose 350 700C rear wheel kit fitted for a bit over 4 years now and it has covered about 1K miles with no problems and was a godsend to get me out into the countryside in lockdown. Just recently it has developed a fault in that after being left standing say overnight it does not respond to the pedal sensor when I start off and if I press the hand throttle either nothing happens or the motor spins but does not engage. If I do this a few times, sometimes while pedalling as, well the motor engages as it should rather than spinning free and there is response to the pedals turning. Mostly this is then OK probably for the rest of the day but sometimes the problem recurs. Unfortunately this leaves me reluctant to risk going far from home as sometimes it takes a while to nudge it into operation. I have undone and checked all the connections and checked the alignment of the pedal sensor and disc. Any suggestions as to what is going wrong and how to fix it.