Miktavus

Thanks, that's extremely useful information. My motor has no internal gearing, so from what you say it's got a better chance of working with a generic controller, and it does work, though not as smoothly as the original Gazelle set up. The information on the third wire out of the battery explains why I had communication problems when trying an alternative power source. Also the two thin wires in the motor are of no consequence in the current set up so I'll leave them. Overall, with a bit of playing around with the programming l've probably achieved as much as I can, which is a usable power assisted bike.

Thanks, the two wires emerged from the motor coils and were soldered straight into the round controller circuit board in the hub. Unfortunately it was not possible to determine their function from that, though if they're not Hall sensor related it saves me the hassle of opening up the hub again and achieving nothing. I'm happy that the bike is usable. Although I've used 3 core mains cable as he did ( I had some spare), I have used good quality connectors. I also wasn't impressed by his "agricultural" approach to the controller mounting and have located mine in a bag at the back under the saddle.

Additional info - I checked the original controller circuit board and have identified which of the brown wires is connected to ground with a continuity meter, so therefore I know which is which of the two wires in the hub. That should rule out potentially damaging experimentation. Mike

I previously posted regarding refurbing an unreliable Orange Innergy https://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/gazelle-orange-innergy-intermittent-loss-of-power-assist-function.40446/#post-604040 and the responses guided me in the right direction - thanks. The main guidance I followed was here https://otapi.medium.com/renew-a-faulty-e-bike-ffa566e3a855 I removed the hub mounted controller and soldered on three motor phase wires connected to a S6-61 controller with a S866 display, and installed a PAS sensor. Playing around with the programming has resulted in satisfactorily power assisted bike, but the performance is a bit rough. I suspect this may be due to the lack of Hall sensors. When I removed the original controller circuit board I cut two thin wires (as well as the 3 phases) which, I think, were both brown. I did nothing with them but suspect they may be the +ve and GND for the Hall sensor in the motor. Would this be correct? If so could they be connected to the 5v and GND wires on the 5 pole "Motor Hall" connection plug on the controller? And, as the wires were both the same colour is polarity important, is it a matter of experimentation, and would wrong connection cause damage? Many thanks for your advice - the forum has helped me immensely. Mike

Tracing the wiring was not conclusive but the 9v supply certainly ends up at the hub, where I understand the controller is housed (not behind the headlight as with some earlier Innergy models). A posting elsewhere says of this supply "The third white wire from the battery is a linbus data connection between the battery BMS, the motor and the display. The normal voltage on it is maximum 12V. The devices pull this voltage to gnd to place data on the bus. (It's a digital serial connection)" That would imply that it doesn't require a big current, so would the combination of a new rechargeable 36V battery and a separate 9V battery be a solution?

I'll do that. If it has that function it's going to be a low current drain, and I'm thinking that it could be supplied by an independent power source such as a PP3 battery.

There are three outlet pins, the middle one -ve, the others +36V and +9V. What is the function of the lower voltage? Presumably no supply to this would lead to the (unspecified) disappointment. Thanks.

Further research and observation has pretty conclusively established that the battery is the problem, with its range due to age being about 20 miles maximum. Recelling it is complicated, not guaranteed and not for the fainthearted, and replacement Gazelle batteries are phenomenally expensive. As I'm not that bothered about the battery being a direct replacement in the same place, this dealer https://batteryempire.co.uk/146-batteries-for-ebikes#/ seems to offer quite a few cost effective options, and it's in the UK. I'd have no problems with making connections and devising suitable mountings. Is this the way forward?

Thanks, it's useful to have that voltage as a reference point. I've rigged up the voltmeter on the bike and will go for a monitoring ride tomorrow, I'm pretty certain that's what I'll find.

Thanks, testing the voltage on load makes sense. I should be able to make up some leads to fix the meter across the charger socket and monitor the voltage as I ride. If that proves the battery is at fault I'll look into replacing the cells.

I have a Gazelle Orange Innegry Electric Bicycle which is inconsistent in its reliability. It's 10 years old, has had moderate use but is in great condition and worth keeping running. It has a Bronze 36v/252Wh battery. Here's the sequence of events leading to loss of the power assist function: 1. Battery fully charged, indicating 100% (5 bars) on controller and all three assist functions work 2. After ~15 to 20 miles battery shows 80% - 100% but power assist stops working. 3. Took battery out and checked voltage with multimeter – 36v reading, as would be expected with a battery showing almost charged on the controller 4. Put battery back in bike and plugged in charger, controller shows 100%. Pressed on button on battery and controller shows power assist working!. 5. Battery fully charged, indicating 100% (5 bars) on controller and all three assist functions work (back to stage 1). The charger works, there seems to be nothing wrong with the motor or the battery, despite its age, so the controller would seem to be the source of the fault, though its behaviour seems illogical. Would a replacement generic controller be the answer to this annoying problem? If so, any suggestions? I'm willing to spend some money on it because the bike is in excellent condition and when it works it's great. Thanks for any suggestions. Mike