Blox

Protection from UV and short wavelength blue light is important if you spend a lot of time outdoors or exposed to such. Long term exposure causes cataracts which is miserable as your vision deteriorates and every day becomes a foggy day (just one eye for me atm). cheap glasses dont offer good protection but do reduce the visible light so your iris compensates, opens wider and let’s more harmful wavelengths through to the lenses of your eyes. Good sunglasses and coated clear glasses block the harmful wavelengths effectively. Ive found Oakley lenses to be the best for sunglasses and prescription sunglasses, plus I like their style!

I came into this with knowledge of mtb cross country racing from 1990s early 2000s. Bikes have changed! Had hardly ridden for 30+years since. I wanted assistance not a powered bike, after research, I decided I wanted a geared rear hub motor with PAS. It had to fit in with a particular full sized folding bike that I has bought. In the end I went for a Dillinger Premium Off Rad Kit. It’s not the cheapest but it’s a very neat solution, the geared hub back wheel motor has masses of torque, but you can still pedal it without the motor because it’s geared not direct drive. The battery controller combo is really neat and the support from the company has been very good. The converted bike which is a hard tail urban/gravel trail mtb is great to ride. Recently did a 34mile circuit, minor road unmettaled road with 2770ft of climbing, and the battery still had life.

No 27.5 =650b. 29 = 700c

On a front fork, one side is trying to push the clamp up, the other to pull it down. If I was running a front motor I’d have two torque arms for what those thin cheap jobs cost, one side pulling, other pushing.

Take your chain around the largest rear sprocket and your largest chainring without the deraillire, add one or two links, that’s your chain length.

On mine, it knows how much you are adding to the mix. You can see on the battery capacity display, the more work you do the longer the range. conventionally I have a cadence that I would try to maintain, on my conversion I use a higher gear and always look to have some resistance, I’m not just along for the ride!

I really liked the Whoosh kits and that’s what what would have been my first choice and what I would have bought but sadly my choice of kit weren’t in stock and because of the time restrictions I had on completing the conversions I had to find an alternative . I also wanted the larger battery for range, a smaller battery probably wouldn’t have helped any way as the cradle is the limiting factor because of how the bike folds. I didn’t buy the Change Bikes with the intention of a conversion, that idea came later! I bought them after extensive research of the folding bike market, I decided I wanted a proper bike that folded and could be ridden off road, rather than a folding bike. Folding so we can get two bikes in the boot of the car. I agree they are pricey considering the level of fitted group set and components but you are essentially paying the premium for the quality and strength of the frame. If I was starting again I’d probably just buy the Change Bike frame and build it up myself choosing custom components as I used to do with my cross country race bikes in the 80s & 90s.

The battery cradle is modified so it can be easily released from the bottle cage mounts to allow the bike to fold without fouling the integrated controller .

So here it is the completed conversion using a Dillinger Off Road Kit. No throttle just PAS so that it can pass as road legal . The PAS is mounted on the RHS on small chain ring, magnets will hold it but there is a dab of epoxy to keep it in place. A bit of dremmel modification of the mag ring needed to endure no interference. Brake sensors are epoxied to existing levers.

There is only one mountain bike folding frame to achieve ISO4210 certification, which is the ChangeBike. I wouldn’t ride the others on a gravel path let alone off road. It’s not electric though! Conversion is not straight forward but is doable and involves some compromise to the convenience of a folding bike but it will still fold fully and you end up with a proper bike that can be used properly off road and has the proper strength, integrity and full sized 27.5 wheels with the addition of a rear hub conversion.

Thanks. Involves the same process of removing the cranks and BB shell as needed for a RHS mag ring

Enlighten me as to method?

PAS cant go on left, as the bike has Shimano Hollowtech cranks and BB, so magnet ring has to go on the small chainwheel. Rack mounts to seat post (actually to the tube below the seat post and there are mounting holes for the stays. The rack mounting is shown in accessories on the Change Bike website. Now thinking of modifying the battery cradle so it’s easily removed for folding but secured when in use. That will allow the preferred downtube mount position.

Exhuming this thread. Just attempting this atm on two Change Bike DF-812 folding hard tail mtbs. Dillinger Off Road kit 500w Rear Hub with 9 speed freewheel, fitting two torque arms, drive side PAS, no throttle The downtube battery cradle (without battery in it) stops the bike fully folding so going to have to use a rear rack mount. Everything else is fine, apart from the faff of fitting a RHS PAS sensor on the Hollowtech crank & BB.