Terry777

You can only be happy with that result. Bike did you proud. The Bafang is a powerhouse!

No wonder they are willing to risk everything to get here (UK) by hook or by crook! Two years for killing someone when you are here illegally then handed a house and near a working wage in benefits! Add the house and everything together and it’s a decent standard of living. The UK gov doing a fine job as usual! Whew! Such a shame for the man and his poor family. Must be so hard to accept and justify…

I take it post #4 is me “missing the point” again, or is it ok if you just break the rules a wee bit? Or, are you allowed to give advice that “ encourages unlawful activity” so long as you advise correctly before you break the rules? Just sayin… don’t want to argue…

Seems you mean “you” and not “we”… Who made you god on what’s to be given as advice? Seems the other person who gave the OP advice on this post didn’t go by the letter of the law either, like most people I’d say. You seem to think your way or opinion is the only way. I tried to be friendly but your too ignorant for me so let’s just ignore each other and we’ll get on great?

Get one like mine! It’ll last your whole shift no probs. Hills are easy! Just don’t ever tell “flecc” you went faster than 15.5mph on the hill… like EVER!! lmao

I have a F300 5A charger. I’m sure it’s nothing special, China special probably! My bike has two 17ah 48v batteries, it’s the newer 21700 cells that’s in it. It takes around 5hrs to charge them fully but that’s with a little still in them, so probably 6hrs from empty. I’ve never run them to empty. I’m sure the battery indicator was at 15% or there about when I checked. I know the % meter isn’t completely accurate on these things but I don’t know far out it really is.

When I did the change from belt drive to chain I only had to change the crank sprocket, trigger shifter, rear wheel and obviously the belt. It sounds like you will be very much the same but the other way around. I had to change the rear wheel as my IGH was a different spoke set up so I just got a whole new wheel with the cassette installed and already set up. It was real easy. Pretty much “plug & play”. If your bike is already made for belts and chains you’ll be good. Good luck with the change

I’ve read all these points and got educated on some things, so not a total loss… Jesus himself is never gonna convince me that 20mph going up the hill is time for a police record but doing that and half again on the way back down is ok isn’t “backwards”…. Ty for the education LOL

We should limit bicycles to 15.5mph too because….. eh …..eh…. I dunno… just because… it’ll be easy to remember?

That’s mostly my point. You’re in trouble for “using the motor” to get to 20mph, yet you can freewheel to 30mph with no motor and it’s fine. Most regular cyclists can get past 20mph easy on the flat with no motor. Sounds a bit backwards to me…. They’ll be trying to charge you for going downhill next… a “flat or uphill only” policy!

Or here… https://ebikemarketplace.com/blogs/news/a2b-kuo-kuo-fast4ward-smart-battery

Check this post. See if they can help? https://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/fast4ward-edge-problems.22445/

The UK Gov are a complete joke! They are gonna charge you and take your ebike if they catch you going 20mph up a hill, yet if they catch you going 30 mph on an analogue bike coming down the other side of the same hill you’re good and all they can do is stand and gawp! Only in the good old UK folks! I’m 100% serious! Lol

Which battery do you have? If you’ll use it plenty and don’t want to wait in a cafe for a couple hours at a time. You get some batteries quite cheap on eBay or whatever as a back up if spending the £’s is worth it for you to carry a second battery to quick change?

I had the Sturmey Archer IGH (5 speed belt drive), my Bafang 1000w literally tore the IGH in half! I changed it out for a normal 9 speed chain and cassette gears and it’s perfect now. I would advise against anything belt unless you research it and know what you’re doing. There are numerous others with the same or similar horror stories of the same bike set up on the EBR forum. I’d say lower power would be ok but you’d need a proper tested for belts frame to be safe. VFR400 is correct about the frame needing to be split or built completely different to suit a belt drive system, you also get belts now that split then rejoin for normal frames. Most need the frame to be strengthened from birth ,as normal bikes (conversions) twist too much during riding which throws the belt drive out of sync. It’s a royal PITA!! From anything I learned during my time having a belt drive, conversion rarely works and is a money pit. The difference between belt and normal chain are so minimal, like nothing a normal rider would notice. Maybe a pro rider would save an extra 5 grams or go 1/2 a mile an hour faster or something minimal like that. Different strokes for different folks and all that, but I’d say stay clear. Hope this helps..

There are loads of people out and about around Edinburgh too, most are friendly and chatty. I have the MD 1000. I should update the photo, it’s got a few more racks etc now. It’s got plenty power and enough range for my requirements. It’s quite big though, would prefer something just a little smaller. I had no experience or help when I got it so I’d do a couple things different on my next bike.

I know using it in and around Edinburgh it does this sometimes too but it’ll tell you before hand there are stairs or a bit you may have to walk your bike through or whatever. You can then change your route or change it on the fly before you hit the “speed bump” in the road. It may not be so updated in more rural areas so best to check first. It has loads of pre planned routes that users are able to update with photos as they use it sometimes letting you know about temporary closures or whatever too.

That’s why I suggested the brake lever trick. I had a internally geared hub before which did the same as yours by the sound of things. By touching the lever you can keep the power off till you completed the change.

There are plenty shops “up the toon” buddy, so get on google then phone around and see who’s got what offers on. You might just get a deal. Everyone is getting ebikes right now so a deal may or may not be available. This also means you’ll have no probs with maintenance and people to help you. Go into as many shops as you can so your not just stuck with 1 shops advice. Tell them you want a mid drive for £1.5k, you can “maybe” go a bit more for the right bike. They may also have a few demo bikes you can have a go on to give you a feel for what you want. I’d give you a go on mine but @ 5”6 you may crack the Crown Jewels. I’m 5”11 and just clear my top bar, and I mean just! I’ve had a few “OHYA” moments. Hope this helps…

Cool trike!

Cool trailer buddy!

If your bike has brake lever cut offs you can use that too to cut the power for longer to suit your gear change needs too. Just touch the lever a tiny bit to cut the power but not enough to actually brake. Just do a couple practice shifts and you can get it pretty honed. I have the Sram derailleur which doesn’t perform the mechanical gear change until you release the trigger shifter, this gives you the extra second to cut the power so you get a smooth change. Most derailleurs do the change as you press the shifter which is not the best for ebikes. Hope this helps….

You just got to go with whatever works. 54.8v is no good if it won’t get you off the mark! 52v is the man all day long! Lol

54.8v is good for a fully charged 48v battery buddy. My 48v system shows 54.8v when it’s fully charged.

https://electric-scooter.guide/guides/qs-s4-lcd-throttle/ Is this any good to you buddy?