Alex76

Yes,

I thoroughly cleaned with emery cloth the male and female of the main multi-pin connector between the battery bag and it's holder attached to the handlebars. With the female I tried to bend each side out to make a better connection as well. Unfortunately still the same.

I've checked out YT "3 motor windings and the 3 hall sensors" one of them began by saying "only attempt this if you have a basic understanding of how an electric motor works" which unfortunately I don't. Where the cable enters the hub the wire is facing up, rather than down, there is a lot of surplus wire tucked underneath the battery. From what I think I've learnt on this thread the wire leaving the motor should first go down before returning up as electricians do with exterior wiring. Swytch want $399 + shipping costs for replacement wheel and motor. That sounds like price gouging to me?

Thanks for the replies. (Are notifications of replies no longer used? )Further developments. I went through the settings on the swytch battery and discovered that it had been set on the wrong wheel size which I corrected. Went out for test ride lights showing but no assistance. Kept trying the off on and eventually it cut in but making a difference noise than before more a repetitive knocking. In trying to unsuccessfully to turn assistance off while cycling the noise suddenly changed to a loud hum and the assistance improved. Tried turning off and then on again but the same repetition as above with the knocking eventually changing to a loud hum. I am quite good with building tools but electronic repairs I have always found a difficult.

Swytch state from information I gave .... It seems like you might have our ECO / PRO generation (GEN 2)

Thanks for replying. I cannot think of any other way to describe the problem

Thanks for replying

Thanks for reply. Have you any suggestions as to what I can do to try and solve the problem?

Thanks for replying. I have been informed by Swytch that my kit is "ECO / PRO generation (GEN 2)" after many emails they conclude it is the battery at fault which seems possible as I've now discovered the previous owner hadn't used the bike for at least a year. You can't buy a replacement battery for this model you have to upgrade. My concern is supposing it isn't the battery?

First apologies for not replying to previous thread but when I was on this forum many years ago one always got notified of replies this time it hasn't happened. Anyway sorted out the first problem which was due to magnet and sensor on pedals. Now I have a new problem that the front wheel motor has started to judder / vibrate. It was preceded by loss of electrical assistance even though all the red lights were glowing. I've been on the switch AI generated replies and gone through all the suggestions but with no luck.

I certainly agree with the overmarketing however my initial impressions of the kit fitted to a second hand bike I have just bought have been very positive apart from the problem of a two second loss of power after doing about 10 miles.

Interested in all things to do with electric bikes especially Swytch kits

I'm very sorry I never replied to any of these replies but I wasn't notified of them. Do I have to enable reply notifications?

Hello I have recently bought a second hand giant MTB with a Swytch kit already fitted. I have to say I am very impressed with the performance of the Swytch but with one exception which I'm hoping somebody can offer advice. After a few miles of everything working perfectly satisfactorily the power seems to go off and then come back on again even when I'm going very slow. Any advice would be much appreciated

I bought a s/h bike with new Tong sheng mid drive 48volt TSDZ2 conversion kit 14 months ago, now has 1300 miles on clock. Over the last week or so the motor has become increasingly noisy. Any tips, advice as to procedures to try and reduce noise would be most appreciated. Thanks