Tabman55

Hi I’m looking to make a light with a switch hooked on that runs off it’s own battery pack and not the main one, I have the battery holder/discharging device and the light bar, will be getting some 3D printed mounts made however I’m looking to put the switch on but haven’t a clue how to go about this, I’m fairly new to all of this so any help is appreciated do I need to add some sort of capacitor or fuse in my circuit? The battery box looks very generic and doesn’t look like it has anything like a fuse in however with it being a solid piece I can’t open it up to check, do I just ask the manufacturer? (probably a stupid question) it’s a simple 12v flood light from harbour freight just 2 wires coming out (+,-) and the same with the battery box, I’m just looking to figure out where I should solder the switch and everything else

Yes the battery mount, my controller supports both 48V and 52V I’m just wondering if there is something inside the mount which is for a certain V and could cause an issue by using a 52V on the 48V’s mount or vice versa

Might sound like abit of a stupid question but I know these battery’s can be no joke if something does happen, I have a 48V and 52V battery with same docking stations and wondered if I can just slide it off and on with 1 of the docks and nothing bad will happen in result to the docking station or battery

Hi I recently had a problem of a reverse back wheel so I cut off the 9 pin head and replaced all cable heads with gold bullet connectors, now I’ve got it running forwards and it free spins when I lift it fine, however when I sit on the bike and throttle it makes a weird noise (sounds like a rubbing or grinding noise) the noise doesn’t happen if I’m not throttling so I could peddle with it, so I’m least to expect a bearing gone bad, I’ve only done 35 miles on the kit, I’m suspecting a hall sensor problem but is there any help towards this? I was trying to attach the video of the noise but it appears it won’t let me

Nothing in the manual about the sw900 display settings and when I googled it, it says p15 isn’t implemented and on my CSC wheel on p15 u can’t change anything up or down, also the 50kph/hr ( for max speed no limit ) setting goes to 100 kph/hr

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/224174565434?epid=9032778333&hash=item3431d8683a:g:YvsAAOSw6lRhua1S

I’ve tried disconnecting a reconnecting in multiple states of being on and off, I heard you have to peddle it forward while turning battery on as learning wires will sort of learn from this and fix it but I don’t think it being pushed into reverse with me peddling it the other way wouldn’t be good for the motor and do the learning wires actually learn from the things u do? I thought they was to limit the power to 15mph for legal limit which is why I didn’t connect

Hi I’ve recently just bought a voilamart 1000w 48V with waterproof connectors, I came to a stop and went into the shop after returning and getting back on my bike I flicked the on switch and tried to go forwards, upon doing so when I tried to throttle the motor was pushing my in reverse, I know this can be solved by changing the phase cables from the motor to controller till u find the right pattern however since it being a singular 9 pin connector I can’t do this, is there any help towards this? ive only just done 35 miles on the kit and haven’t even had a chance to rag it around at all so I don’t fear for any damages although I know this could still be a problem it wouldn’t be on my side of the spectrum no I haven’t opened the motor as I’m not looking to brake more further as I don’t know what I’m doing, I contacted the supplier and he said it is the controller but I need to wait for it to ship from China to UK which will take weeks any help?

I’ve bought the diy e bike kit and upon looking through the manual it says I can change the wheel diameter, it is a 29” wheel however it’s came preset as a 26” and I’ve left it as it is since it’s running smoothly and I know I should probably change it up but will it increase my speed or just not really change anything? probably seem stupid for asking this but since it was preset to 26 and it says that’s the default on the manual it came with so I’ve left it and it still gets me going fast enough it’s a 1000w rear hub drive motor

Hi I was wondering what measures I could take for layers of security to keeping my wheel on? (1000W 48V rear motor) I have already got myself a torque arm but was wondering if there is anything else which can completely just make it feel like nothing will go wrong? I overthink sometimes and if I hear noises while riding that I’m not used to I tend to stop and investigate it and since it’ll be taking me at higher speeds than normal I’d like to feel like I’m fully safe

I was under the impression I am going to be extending the dropout to make it deeper so that the wheel fits in to the dropouts more? Can someone explain what to do when filing please

Hi I have recently learnt I need to file my rear dropout, I went and bought a round file that fits in since all my others didn’t, is there anything I should know before I start to file it down? I would like pictures of failed/perfect filed ones if u can (please list failed/perfect if u can show me) ive found it only needs about 2mm off, is there anything I can do to make sure the round head will stay the same size as needed and have the wheel fit in perfect so it avoids problems?

Ah I see, thanks for the advice bud also I have a carrera hellcat with the dropout a size of 65mm, I’ve noticed the bafang will install to 68-73mm dropouts, is it possible to modify the dropout to a bigger size to fit the motor or would I have to use a different frame? I’ve been looking on a certain bike I’ve seen online but I can’t seem to find the dropout size anywhere online for it so if it was 65mm also I could use the tip to modify it

Ah I see, seems you know your stuff, is there any parts in which I can take note of which would be the best to use when using a bbs02 kit? I don’t wanna keep having troubles and you seem like you would know the important things for doing an installation going smoothly, is there any videos or full sites which u know of that will have a full explanation in to it all so I won’t spend loads of time reading around different sites and just basically reading the same things

Hi, I’ve been dabbling around looking for frames with the right size dropout for fitting a bafang mid drive 750W and was wondering if there is any bikes out there cheap-medium expensive range which will fit the bafang on perfect and still give me a nice ride, I don’t want a super cheap bike which will feel like it’ll start falling apart every time I go off a curb or go over a rocky path. also is there any things I should know about when purchasing the bbs02 kit? Like is there anything extra I’ll have to order along side like a torque arm for example (obviously I know a torque arm isn’t right for the mid drive kits) also is there any better mid drive motors people can recommend? Happy to look around for other good kits that will fit nice, if you have fitted a kit like this please include it in the comments if u can and if u had to have any side work done to get it working properly and so I can see how flush everything goes along with your bike

I found this linked to the hub I bought, does number 4 mean it needs to be that size down in the dropout for it to work best

so if I file it down it should rest in nicer obviously, will this solve the problem of it coming out? I watched a fair amount of installing videos and looked around for everything and thought it would be easy but I haven’t seen any video or anything telling me about the drop out needing filing into, would this also cause me any problems with the rear deralliuer since the wheel will be further up than normal or is it not enough to effect it?

Hi I’m new to building e bike conversion kits and I’ve had a few problems with the rear 1000W hub wheel coming from the axle, I currently have 1 torque arm fitted which has been successful to stop the wheel from spinning so luckily I can still use this kit as no real damage has been done to cable, is there anyway I can remove the cable head and get the torque arm behind it so I can have 2 to fully hold the wheel on? I’ve thought about snipping the wires and using terminal connector blocks to reattach the wires after putting the torque arm on, is this possible or will it just mess with my kit? id like to know if I will also need a new frame in total for the fact of it has wor out the dropout a little bit from where it’s came out, it’s never been travelling over 8mph before falling out and most it was stationary so I don’t think much damage had been done to it, no one near me will fit electrical kits or do anything with them so it looks like I’m gonna be doing this alone, I haven’t got my soldering kit with me at this house so it would be easier if I could re attach the head with connector blocks instead of soldering/climping them and fitting it back in, could I get some help in knowing if this will work and if it’ll cause problems? can provide pictures if it will help for people figuring out if I’ll need a new bike frame or if another torque arm could save this problem till I’ve started building my enduro stealth bomber