badaboum

Thanks. Indeed For me , when we are going up the hill, Nexus on 1, giving everything we can, the torque should be high enough to force the 80NM at their max Somehow I do not have this feeling. I feel that there is a restrainer somewhere One way to solve this could be inned to add a Throttle controller. Tomorrow I will check if the bike is UART or Canbus and advise Thanks

Thanks for the detailed input I will try the password see if I can change the wheel size (strange that a 1 year old bike has the wrong size...) My reasoning, is the following: The Vogue is made by dutch people whom are know for flat surface and extensive ridding. I am wondering that somehow they have tweaked the engine to cap the torque and increase range. Where I leave in France, it's quite the opposite (less range and more hills) Morover, I have a point of comparison between my 15 years old cargo bike that I swapped for this one. The Panda bike that I had featured an DAPU 123 250W / 30NM hub motor (pedal sensor driven) that allowed us to go easily up the hills (with a nexus 3) This one, has a claimed 80NM peak torque and with a Nexus 7 I am sttrugling... I have made such a leap in terms of braking, handling and frame strengts, that I am wondering how is that even possible on the engine to be so far from the old one Hope this helps understand where I am going and see if one of the code that I see on the screen can help me get back where I was with my ''vintage cargo'' VOGUE is not distributed in France (you buy the bike via online distributor so 0 local support is possible and they are not responsive to email/facebook contact

Thanks All for your inputs!! A few questions on my side: 1) is there a way for me to get the Bafand Diag tool and do it myselft? I kind of don't trust dealer here in paris who tries to scam as much as possible. I mean is i buy the tool that I see at 60€ on Aliexpress, will I be locked by a password, or something like that? 2) My wheel size in the C07 is set to 28 inch, but my actual wheel size is 26 inch That means that my speed is somehow always wrong. How can I change this? Is there an impact on the torque? Do I need the diag tool to change it? 3) Any decyphering of the codes that I see on my screen? LUD = 28 inch SPL = 25 kmh (logical) CHc : 1.0 CSc : 001.3 dHc = 1.0 dSc = 01.1 Shc = SSc = 01.0 EO0 = 00 EO1= 00 EO2 = 00 EO3 = 00 EO4 = 00 EO5 = 00 EO6 = 00 EO7 = 00 EO8 = 00 EO0 = 00 Thanks

Thanks all for the feedback Basicaly we have a big hill to get home and my wife is having trouble pedaling at full power and lower gear We used to have an old cargo with a 250w front wheel motor with a very basic design and never had that problem (with a nexus 3) I have the feeling that the motor can do more .... I have upgraded from a 10 year old cargo to a brand new one but feels I have less power... Looking at the menu, I can see the following option after NNA LUD = 28 inch SPL = 25 kmh (logical) CHc : 1.0 CSc : 001.3 dHc = 1.0 dSc = 01.1 Shc = SSc = 01.0 EO0 = 00 EO1= 00 EO2 = 00 EO3 = 00 EO4 = 00 EO5 = 00 EO6 = 00 EO7 = 00 EO8 = 00 EO0 = 00 Any of those handle the torque? How to change it if it is the case? I am surprised that I was able to access this without the password need Thanks agian all

Hello Everyone I have bought an Cargo bike from Vogue. The Carry 2. I am in the EU, and I am a bit disappointed by the lack of torque of the engine . Speed is not a problem. The limit at 25 km/h is ok for me as I ride mainly with the kids in the city. But I need more torque, especially that I am in a hilly area and got in some trouble are when the bike was loaded with 2 or 3 kids I have tried to unlock the display, but apparently there are no setting for the torque. Only max speed. 1) How can I adjust the torque? is it capped? 2) everytime I change gear (nexus 7), the M400 cuts a micro second (I assume to allow the gear to change without too much torque into the hub) is this normal? Thanks The specs are below: Engine BAFANG M400 Max Drive Power Motor 80Nm Motor position 13 Ah Battery Type CAN Range 45-60 km Maximum Speed 25 km/h

Any idea how to confirm it's the battery and not the motor? I don't have a problem puttin 400e in the battery but if it's not that but the motor then that would be a loss :-)

Hard to say the ramp is not very long but step. I used to climb it a couple of years ago without any issue. Getting the voltage of the battery will not help?

Hello guys I have a cargo bike with the usual front DAPU 250w motor. Bike has 6000km on it. Since last month I feel the bike is having hard time getting me on top of my parking slope. How can I asses if it is the battery which is dead or the motor? Because on flat surface ( I know less torque is needed) it behave almost as usual ( at least I don't see the difference) This is not the first battery of course Thanks for your help Sherlock team Cheers

I have tried switchng my PAS sensor onto that 4 connector and it does not work. I am cleary leaning towards a European feature where PAS is deactivated somehow. I need to find the ''somehow''

Yes, the controler that i have is the same as the one in the diagramm and gas pedal seems to be red blue and white wire (only 3 pin connector available anyway...) I think that you might be right, I need to open the controler to see if there are no jumper or something like that The controler is a DPWK36V

Ok so if I am getting this right, my GAS is sending the right signal (between 0,8 and 4,8v depending on the position of the thumb) but my controler is not reacting to it This is weird

A few months after this issue, i finally had time to get my head into this I have bought 2 throttle controler (5V) and none of them is working. ... The signal coming out of the throttle is not 1V but a usual 0 to 5V like a variable resistor (i have measured between 0,8V to 4,7V) The throttle signal needs to be 1V right? Something like a hall signal? Can you share a few link for 5V input / 1V output throttle ? I am a bit confused here Cheers Thanks

Thanks

Hi So I swapped the PAS sensor for a 100% fit with the original one. Bike is now back to normal Somehow, by changing the tyre at the front I have ''melted/shortcc'ed'' the PAS sensor.... Quite strange I will see to buy a Throttle gear. Any recommendation ? Are they all equivalent in terms of voltage etc..? Thanks

Ok still waiting for my replacement sensor. Quick question : I have given 3V and 5V on the Throttle 3PIN plug and nothing is happening (wanted to see if the controller is reacting) . is there anything else to do? Thanks

Yes, I tried it in both direction with both disc. It is sending signal to the controler. It was a ''cheap'' model on amazon I have found the same one from king-meter installed in my bike available in italy. just purchased it. 3 times more expensive but should work My wife will not agree to have ''the risk'' of the engine turning on when going backward I will update in a few days thanks

Ok so PAS sensor changed. Needed quite some adjustment with the Dremel as it was not a 100% swap with my 2010 old back plate. Anyway, engine is now back , it turns nicely, but I have quite an issue : When I am back pedaling, the engine is now also turning... So if I am pushing the bike backward, the engine starts spinning to pull me in the other direction. Quite annoying .... Is it a PAS sensor issue or a setup in the controler/display? Quite strange... Thanks

It's a simple 3 wires (+5 GND and signal) I like to keep my equipment as simple as possible . No need for fancy stuff so that you can maintain and repair yourself ... That's the theory :-)

Yes sorry you are right. I miss typed it. 6 = 3 + 3 I'll change the PAS sensor cable tonight and will update with I hope good news :-)

Sorry, It's the engine from DAPU http://www.dapumotors.com/products/m123-fs.html

Ok, so i dismantled the controler. Turns out (beleive it or not) there is a short circuit on the PAS sensor. When I unplug the PAs sensor the display goes back to full brightness. I am going to start by replacing the PAs sensor tonight and see if the problem stays. I have not been close to the PAS sensor during my tire change so quite funny The cable coming from the M123 has 5 cables. I assume 3 for the 3 whirring and 2 for the hall sensor, right?

The silicone spray is made specifically for electrical contact (help the the connector in but avoid conductivity) If there was a false contact within the front connector can this explain the situation? I though the front connector is only a 3 PIN getting the front whirring of the engine?

Hello Thanks for the swift response and advise. I will apply it I have used silicone spray to make sure both connectors are in. I don't think I can get it much further. You can see the pic below. The weird thing is that even when I unplug the motor, the display still behave strangly so I am assuming the controler or the display are somehow dead? See the video below:

Hello New to the forum. I am in Paris and owe a cargo bike with DAPU M123 front engine. I did a simple tyre change today (bike was running great yesterday) had to unplug the front motor and now front engine is not turning and the display is very dim... Any idea what could have happened? Battery has 41V on it. I can see the speed on the display (coming i guess from the pedal sensor) Controller is hidden within the cargo bay for the battery so quite a pain to remove... Thanks