squirrel22

The chainwheel change to 56T certainly gave a more sensible gear range. I hadn't thought of changing the rear gear cluster. I'm not with the bike and not certain how many teeth on top gear at the moment. I'd be looking for a cassette with a smaller number for top gear I guess?

Is there a way of extending when pedal assist kicks in so that you have to pedal more before it gives you a push? I'm thinking that the Display settings are just that and by changing the P06 "Magnetic poles in sensor" from 43 to another value that it won't effect when pedal assist comes in. Am I right or is it as simple as changing the value? If it is all down to the magnets around the disk next to the bottom bracket/crank then each time a magnet passes the Hall effect sensor it will trigger a signal. So I'm thinking if I removed one magnet so it only had 4 on the disk that should mean pedal assist doesn't kick in until 20% more pedal effort is put in. Has anyone tried this? Any thoughts welcome! btw I did change to a 56T chainwheel

I found I had to get both the crank and chainring and a crank puller to sort the job out. I went for the Litepro 130BCD with 53 tooth chainring which is a significant improvement on the original and I'm using gears 5 to 7 now instead of never changing out of 7. You might be able to go to 56 teeth without extending the chain which would be better still. In the photo you can see where 53 teeth gets the derailleur...

I bet we've different controllers. My display looks like this....

My P10 is changing kph to mph. Did you mean P11? PAS and Throttle both work on mine but I'd like to try it with no PAS as Throttle to get started and then just pedal might be what I'd like.

My P11 reads zero. Possibly a default??

Thanks for that. It looks like I can change up to P11 but I don't have a P12. What does P11 do?

Thanks, I've ordered one. Any ideas around making the pedal assist kick in at a different speed or switch it off altogether but still have throttle power?

Thanks but that is what I bought and it doesn't fit the original crank sadly or did you mean the Litepro crank that matches it?

In flat parts of the country the original chainring leaves you unable to add anything to pedalling when you've got up to a good speed. I decided to buy a new chainring with a few more teeth which will help. Unfortunately I bought a Litepro 130 BCD 53 Tooth chainring after reading a few posts in various places and the d@mn thing is the wrong size! I think my original chainring is more like 150 BCD and it looks like its held in place with plastic screws possibly with a rivet inside although I haven't looked very close up. I'm thinking its best to get a crank set to match the Litepro 130 BCD 53 Tooth chainring I've just bought? Also, has anyone found a way of making the pedal assist kick in at a different speed or switch it off altogether but still have throttle power?

Thanks! We have some of those already. I'd thought of them as being a bit posh for this application but they're a good price!

Good points Andy. If it was just one dodgy cell then reducing each series to 12 cells would still be positive for me as it could bring the potential max voltage of the original battery up to 50.4v from its current 48.6v so still a success. I think I'll look out for a big enough metal box that would take the charger and battery for charging in case of run away problems.

Thanks Andy thats a good point. I'll keep fingers crossed its the BMS and not cells that's the problem. If it is a cell(s) I'll still want to make it a useable battery. I imagine its the 13 cells in series that will be the difficulty as its not viable to de-weld all the cells so checks would have to be done with the cells in situ. Individual cell voltages can be measured but is it their internal resistance which is the issue? I guess I could rig up some form of load (bulb) to apply to individual cells and measure current with the load? Any thoughts on this?

I'd rather it was the BMS to be frank as that would be much easier to fix

They haven't asked (as yet) and I haven't suggested it My thoughts are to leave it a month and if I hear nothing I'll strip the battery pack down and track down the offending cell(s) to replace. The Youtube video of dissecting the DCH-006 battery is a good one - it looks a convoluted way of squeezing all the cells in but doable.

I thought I should post an update as my saga has turned out well. I bought a "Rymic Upgraded bike" which turned out to be a Samebike E-One 20LVXD30. Very happy with the bike of course other than the battery which wouldn't charge beyond 48.6v. Rymic (Topo Ltd) sent me a replacement DCH-006 battery which charged up to 54.3v on first charge which I've accepted as okay. There have been communication problems with Rymic which dragged on a couple of weeks. These were both language difficulties and their customer service people not understanding that a 48v battery should charge to 54.6v. Once they referred it to their engineer it was resolved quickly. Along my travels of understanding whether the problem was the battery, battery management system or the charger I bought a variable charger from DigiKey which only took 2 days to delivery. I'm really impressed with it. Voltage can be set between 42-60v at 2 Amps (mine seems to be variable between 37.3-62.3v which would cater for people with 36v, 48v or 52v bike batteries). https://www.digikey.co.uk/en/products/detail/mean-well-usa-inc/NPB-120-48TB/14682595

Thanks. Hmm, I can't spot an obvious on/off button. Rymic (the seller) seem to think that a full charge of 48.6v is fine for a 48v battery! I explained that 48v is the mid point between fully charged at 54v and empty at 41v but they don't understand this and/or English so CS is near zero. I'm trying samebike.store to see if they will "adopt" my bike. It doesn't help that Rymic changed their website completely since I bought on 9th Aug and no longer show this bike or allow you to view your account/invoice. ... caveat emptor I guess!

Thanks Nealh. I'm really struggling to get any joy from the vendor, Rymic. They don't seem to understand English well or what they are selling and are not very responsive either. I thought I was getting an "upgraded Rymic bike" and a Samebike 20LVXD30 turned up. Its the same spec and I love the Samebike other than the battery issue. The user manual could say a lot more than it does! I tried contacting Samebike and they said (understandably) try the vendor first before reverting to them. I've just tried taking a video and sending it to Rymic so I'll see if they understand what I've sent them. I wasn't certain what you meant by the "battery switch". Did you mean to turn the ignition key to on for 10-30 secs? I thought it was just a locking key but I've tried doing that and nothing changed.

Thanks. I've just checked the charger with two meters and both read 54.7v I'm not sure what happened yesterday when I couldn't see a voltage on the meter. I'd assumed the charger had shut off. Unless anyone can think of a charger issue that could still affect this, I think it narrows down the problem to the battery or the BMS?

Thanks. I didn’t get any voltage when I tried so I figured it had shut off with having no load. I’ll put my specs on and have another go in the morning

I’ve just had a Samebike 20LVXD30 delivered and like the bike but not the charging situation. It seems to only charge to 48.6v as checked on two multimeters. I’m unsure of course whether the problem is the charger or battery. I read the interesting discussion above and I’m curious how you measured the charger voltage?