SafetyThird

Yes but the son dynohub only outputs a few watts so would make a rubbish motor I think. I’d like to get a USB output adapter for the big battery as powering a phone for the day for navigation wouldcause minimal drain on a battery this size.

The other wheel I have has a Son dynohub. One of the cables powers the Dynamo lights, the other powers the PowerBug USB charger to charge up a power pack or my phone.

Thank you, hopefully now sorted and something I’ll double check in future. Also added a Velcro tie wrap for securing the cable.

Oh good idea. I think I have a few for sorting electrical cables in the drawer. I’ll dig one out.

I added a removable zip tie to close up the loop a bit.

Thanks [mention=29130]Jodel[/mention] ill have a read through

Thanks [mention=6303]Woosh[/mention] thats put my mind at ease.

Thinking about the torque arm conversation earlier, while it may not be necessary, is it a good idea for peace of mind given that it's a cheap thing to do? If so, what sort of kit should I be looking at?

thanks, I’ll do that. Will make it a removable tie wrap so it’s easy to drop the wheel out for puncture repair etc.

Was up early this morning so went out to the garage to finish up. Installed the wiring as neatly as I could, though it might be changed later, will see if there’s anything that rubs or pulls after a couple of rides. then took it for a quick test ride. Wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee! Everything works very well, I think it’s going to be a real boon on the local hills and encourage me to get out more now that I know I won’t be left pushing the bike up hills when my legs won’t carry me any further. I’ll be able to start working on my fitness again and also reduce the number of car journeys by doing grocery runs to the local town by bike. Will update after a few rides with how it’s all going.

I ground down the bracket screws so they didn’t protrude past the bracket. Then I glued a couple of strips of old inner tube to the bracket and mounted it back up.

I looked at the one [mention=38589]Cadence[/mention] mentioned but it's not as long effectively as the one I went for because of the section below the cutout for the bottle boss bolts. I've now fitted it and, as you can see, there's just enough room for the bottle to fit on the downtube. The bracket bends down slightly until the top bolt touches the downtube. I'll grind the bolts down so they're flush with the bracket and glue a piece of inner tube on to the back of the bracket so that it doesn't rub against the down tube. I think a single extra rivnut might be a good idea at some point, or perhaps get a proper one brazed in if I'm going to keep this as a long term option. The bracket does flex a bit but there's room to put a jubilee clip around the bracket and clamp it in place. Because I'm not mounting it to the downtube directly, the little rounded plastic washers that come with the kit aren't used and I might trim them to fit underneath the bracket and then put a jubilee clip over the top, there's room between the battery mount and the bracket.

Any particular reason? Everything I’ve read says that torque arms are only usually used on aluminium forks but it’s ok on steel. My forks are steel so thought I’d be ok. Happy to add one if folks think it worthwhile.

That looks to be the same one I bought. Saw it on AE but wanted it today