bob d

HI, My bike goes just fine as I've fitted a new front wheel drive kit to it. The problem is stopping. Its got a rear wheel Shimano Nexave BR-IM50-R roller brake fitted to it. I would buy a new unit or the necessary spares but cant find a supplier apart from second hand units. Any suggestions would be appreciated Many Thanks Bob D

Hello out there, I’m more or less new to all this and am looking for a kit to convert my bike to electric assistance. I’m currently only interested in pedal assistance but will perhaps occasionally want the bike to self propel without any pedalling. Also I think with a minimum of 3 levels of assist. I’m retired now and have spent half of my life fixing old motorcycles and being an engineer in the first place gives me some confidence regarding the fitting of a kit hopefully wont be a problem, and to keep things simple I’m sure a front hub motor type will be adequate for what I want. It wont be used for anything other than 5 mile ish trips to the shops and visiting friends and wont be used to climb mountains and riding in the rough stuff and the wet will be avoided. The kits I’m currently looking at is a Voilamart 26” front wheel 36V 350 Watt arrangement and a BMS Tech 26” front wheel 250 Watt. Both are supplied without batteries. I’m wondering if anyone has any experience with these kits. Any comments/help would be most appreciated. Many Thanks Bob D

Ah well, the original resistor wasnt positioned as I have positioned the new one. It was set at about 45 degrees sloping up from the PCB. The end of the original resistor was almost if not touching the PCB where the crater/burned area is. I've added another picture. Many thanks bobd

Ah, I can see the reason for your comments. The 3 spiders legs are actually very fine scratches in the surface of the PC. And what might look like a solder blob is actually more like a shallow crater burned into the surface of the PCB. I'll take some more photos tomorrow and forward them on. Thanks again bobd

Hello again, and I'm back with the latest saga of the poorly EZEE. So, the 5 volt regulators turned up this morning and I've spent a few hours in the workshop practicing my soldering skills and soldering a regulator back into its position on the PCB. That's where the first bit of iffy news comes from as it was clear that all was not as it should be be. Close inspection (very close) as in best reading glasses and a magnifying glass revealed that the copper track on the back of the circuit board had lifted and broken away. I've fixed this, I think, by soldering some fine copper wires into the correct places on the back of the board. Whilst doing this I noticed that on the component side of the board directly beneath were the original resistor was fitted there is a rather scorched looking item which I think is a component, see photo. Its the component, if that's what it is, that is close to the "T2" and one of the legs on the new resistor. However, I carried on with the job and went back to the tests you have guided me through. The first thing I noticed after connecting to the battery was the red LED wasn't on, then it was, then it wasn't, and that's how its been all evening during the tests without any pattern, and there doesn't seem to to be any dodgy connections. I checked the supply and that was 37V. Then I checked as follows: The new resistor which shows 37V at one end and 29V at the other end. Then small regulator shows 14.5V at the IN end and 5V at the OUT end. The large regulator shows 15V at both sides. The motor halls were showing 5V. The throttle signal was up to 4V but seemed intermittent. The PAS was giving the 5V pulses. The Mosfet test when connected to the red battery wire on control box and the readings showed 50k at the blue wire, 15k at the green and yellow wires. When connected to the black battery wire at the control box the readings showed 29k at the blue wire and 13k at the green and yellow wires. I checked to see if there is any sign of life from the motor but unfortunately there is nothing. Clearly all is not well and I wonder what comes next ??? Many thanks again bobd

Hopefully all will go to plan and then the leftover resistors and regulators will be sent to gather dust in a far flung corner of a cupboard never to be seen again, and so I'll be quite happy to donate them to wherever free of charge. Many Thanks bobd'

AaaHaa. The new resistors turned up today and so I've fitted one. Still no 5V regulator fitted though but suddenly there are some readings as follows. The resistor readings are 37V at one end and 31V at the other and its resistance is 197 Ohm. The reading from the vacant holes for the 5V regulator, ie from the middle ground hole to the IN volt hole is now 14V, and the small red LED light is now working. Does this sound correct ? Clearly I have to wait for the regulators in eager anticipation but in the meantime, does anyone want 49 resistors. Many Thanks bobd

Hi again and thanks for the encouraging reply. I've been having a ponder over what comes next with this little conundrum and guess its just a matter of waiting until the parts arrive and then installing the new regulator and resistor and working back through the previous notes and going through the tests you have previously provided. I've been doing a little research and I'm now under the impression that it doesn't matter which way around the resistor goes but from what you have previously said it does matter which way the regulator goes. So, the question is, can I assume the new regulator goes with its flat face in the same orientation as the old one. If what I'm saying here is correct then I guess we don't need to talk anymore until the parts come and I've done the surgery. Many thanks again for all your help for which I am most grateful. bobd

Right, here we go with my findings. THE REGULATORS As you said regarding price it seems that from ebay + the P&P which is about as much as the components the price gets bumped up. On amazon (with prime) they are double the price to those on ebay, but there is no postage, plus I can easily send them back if not suitable, unfortunately they will take about a week to get here. So, what I've found on 4 different regulators of the 5V TO-92 type, is that the ground is always the middle terminal and the output is to the left, that's when your looking at the flat face of the regulator and it is stood on its three legs. However I don't know which way around the legs on the regulator from my PCB are. All of the 5V output regulators I have looked at have a maximum input voltage of 30V. The title of the regulator I have ordered from Amazon is Chanzon 50pcs 78L05 TO-92 Three-Terminal Voltage Regulator Stabilizer Transistor There is a data sheet on amazon when your looking at the component of which I've attached a copy (I think). THE RESISTORS The resistors are also from amazon and have the title: sourcing map 50Pcs 200 Ohm Resistor, 2W 5% Tolerance Carbon Film Resistors, 4 Bands for DIY Electronic Projects and Experiments I have ordered the above and hope I have it correct, but if not please re educate me and I will re-order accordingly. In both cases it seems as though I will get a small sack full and so if you know anyone who wants the left overs they're welcome to have them. Many Thanks again bobd REGULATOR-1.pdf

Ah, right, yes, in other words I aren't exactly full of confidence with the old multimeter, but after a chat with a mate who is I've done the recommended stuff and checked the resistor (the one next to the 12V rgulator) and the reading just stays at 0.0. I've had the multimeter dial set at its lowest position and at 2k and also used a different multimeter and still nothing. Also said mate suggested removing one end of the resistor from the PCB and re checking and still there is no reading. So, as I haven't got any odd resistors laying around I cant think of anything to make a comparison test on and confirm what I'm doing is correct. If I knew what spec a replacement resistor was I'd order some from Amazon as they seem to have various types. So, I'll await your advice and proceed accordingly. My grateful thanks again bobd

Well I'm back and no burnt fingers etc and the little black 3 legged thingy is out. The holes are clear and any solder splatter which got on the PCB has been delicately removed. Unfortunately the readings are still the same. I get 37V at one end of the resistor and at the other end 0.3V and one reading of 0.6V, and just to check to make sure I'm using the multimeter correctly I'm connecting the black probe from the meter to where the black battery wire is soldered into the PCB and the red probe from the meter to either end of the resistor. So I'm now wondering what is next to investigate ? Many Thanks again bobd

Arghhhh, remove that little 3 legged black thing indeed. Well that certainly will test me, but best foot forward etc etc. That'll be a job for tomorrow, and a steady hand and perhaps a third hand form a friend. Oh yes I forgot to mention, the outer painted type of layer on the resistor has all crumbled away in bits, perhaps due to overheating. Watch this space as they say and I'll report back to you accordingly. Many Thanks again bobd

Hi again and the readings from the resistor are 37V at one end and 0.3 at the other end. I've taken this measurement between the main black wire going into the PCB (which I believe is called ground) and each end of the resistor. However I don't know what the readings should be. Thanks Again bobd

Oh yes, I forgot to mention that I don't recollect trying to get any readings between the white and black wires.

Hi again. Just back from another session with the mustimeter and there is definitely 36v at the red wire at KSI. For the next checks I have assumed that I'm going between a black wire and the legs on the regulators to establish some readings. So the readings from the large regulator read 0.6V on one outer leg and 0.3v on the other outer leg and 0.6 on the middle leg. The smaller regulator reads 0.3v on each outer leg and 0.0 on the middle leg. Many Thanks bobd

Ah, I seem to have a new version of your last message. I'll go and investigate a bit more. Thanks Again bobd

Mmmm, I'm back again and a bit confused as your last message seemed to change. Not sure now whether or not I should continue and bridge the blue and red wires as first seem to be indicated. I've been back and had another look and and the blue wire definitely goes to IN and have taken some photos of the controller PCB and the display unit PCB. On the view of the controller PCB the blue wire in question is between the white and black wires and the views of the display unit are self exoplanetary. Many Thanks bobd

Thanks and back to the workshop. bobd

Much to my surprise I think I might be following this and can report back that the cable from the control box to the display unit has 6 wires. Yellow, red, black, blue, green and white, and if I take a reading between the red and any black wire I get 37v. Also I've already got the control box cover off and can also report that the terminals that these 6 wires go to on the controller printed circuit board are marked as follows : yellow to SPD, red to KSI, black to GND, blue to IN, green to BRK and white to +5V. Many Thanks again bobd

Thanks again everyone and I have now re borrowed the 3 car batteries. They aren't new but each one will individually illuminate a 21W bulb and the the total accumulated voltage is 37 volts. So, the first thing to report is regarding the 2 frayed wires which are 2 of the 6 that go from the controller to the battery condition indicator and pass through a bracket on the steering head and are the black and yellow wires. They could have both easily both been in contact with the steel bracket where they have frayed (picture attached). Next bit was to start the test as described in the instructions and I checked the voltage on the wires going into the controller which were 37V. So far so good. Then I checked between a black wire and the red wire to the PAS and got 0.0V. Then I checked between a black wire and the red wire to the throttle and got 0.0V. Then I checked between a black wire and the red wire going to the motor Halls and got 0.0V. Then I checked between a black wire and the red wire going up to the battery voltage indicator and got 37V. So, now I've established that (whatever that is) I'm wondering if the rest of the test is still meaningful although I will work my way through it. Also there isn't a block connector of any type on the forks for the wires to melt in as they go straight from their connection at the controller to and into the front wheel spindle. Many Thanks again bobd

Hi again and thanks for the help so far. I'll need to get hold of 3 car batteries again by the sounds of things and that will take a few days and so I wont be around until I get that sorted. Another problem I'm having is with the site site and am struggling finding my way back to my thread. Any advice on that would be welcome. Once again Many Thanks bob d

Many Thanks to saneagle (I hope I have the name right) and the information I've received will be most helpful in due course which is now printed off and in my Ezee folder. However my previous post was incomplete as I was afraid of boring readers into nodding off and so I left out the second chapter of the no doubt familiar tale. Chapter 2 Upon receipt of said Ezee Sprint I did a little investigative work and found a couple of badly frayed wires and a corroded snap connector. these problems were temporarily corrected and all the wiring and connections checked for continuity. I did a little research on the internet and managed to find some bits I could understand in the hope to re-educate myself and replaced the throttle as the Hall sensor wasn't working and checked the brake lever switches and the pedal assist sensor and all seemed to be working. Now then, at 2 or 3 stages along the way I wanted to check to see if any of the faults I had found had made a difference but as the battery hasn't been charged for over 10 years and shows a reading of about 16 volts, and the charger is missing, I connected the bike to three 12 volt car batteries wired in series with a 10 amp fuse. A big nothing was the answer, well almost nothing apart from a green light illuminating the battery condition monitor. Well I think that's what it is. Next job was to take a peek inside the control box to spot any obviously cooked components. Well I didn't spot anything but a mate called in and had a look and noted that there are 2 or 3 components around where R21 and T2 is printed on the circuit board that definitely look a bit frazzled. Please see attached photo (a zoom is reqd). So my next comment is that I reckon I need a new battery and charger and it would be good to get one that fits into the original Ezee plastic battery box (the 3 car batteries I borrowed are no longer available). I've spotted a battery on Amazon that will fit but its 48 volt and I'm wondering if the system could cope with that. It does seem like the battery issue might be a good place to start and an opinion on the control box is clearly needed. That's where the conundrum is to date and once again I'm hopeful of an electronically minded kindly soul to point me in the right direction. Many Thanks bob d

Hello out there, Well I guess help is the motivation I have to be here and in the interests of keeping a long story short I'd better get on with it. I'm a retired engineer of sorts and I've been associated with 2 wheeled transport since my childhood. Push bikes, mopeds, small motorbikes and big motorbikes have carried me many a mile, and now in my retirement my desire to fix things (classic bikes) that don't work has become a bit of (a lot really) a hobby. I've been watching the world of e-bikes for quite a few years now and have noted their technical development with some interest and so when recently offered a 20 plus year old Ezee Sprint in a non working condition I jumped at the chance to try my hand at renovating it. The mechanical and basic wiring stuff is'nt a problem for me but after finding and correcting several electrical faults and correcting them there is still not a flicker of life from the poor thing. In the interests of maintaining originality I really don't to go down the route of fitting a new kit/system and so a helping hand (a clever electronics person) is needed to further this project. The bike shops I've contacted so far have had no interest other than to try to sell me a new bike and have avoided talking technical. So , here I am wondering which way to jump next and wondering what type of response this little story my get. Many Thanks bob d