throwawaychap

She's a beauty. Thank you for the review! What is the biggest 36v battery of the same rear pannier style one can fit in there? If someone needs one for a longer commute it'd be good to know for us newbies.

It looks great value, and it's a nice looking bike too. I can't wait to see what the £245 folder is like.

Quick update: The bike is working normally as it should with the new battery Greenlance sent me. I'm happy to have my bike again. Happy days.

I didn't order one but I am really looking forward to reading everyone who got one's personal reports of the bikes; and future upgrades. I second whoever said that even out of the box it could be a great bike for errands and leaving it locked around town without too much of a worry.

I'm back and calmed down. Greenlance got back to me (I messaged them that very day) within an hour and promised to send me a brand new battery as soon as they had more 36v 20ah in stock. They also supplied me a shipping label so I could send the faulty battery their way. The new battery arrived today. I was just able to squeeze in a 5 minute test ride around the block before it got dark. I reiterate that in terms of customer service I cannot fault Greenlance or Yose Power. They are a 10/10 in that respect from me. Now fingers crossed the bikes works without a hitch like before. My first 4 months with the bike were magical.

Talk about rotten luck. Need advice please. More trouble this morning. I was going to take the bike for another test drive just this morning, right away I noticed the bike wouldn't turn on. I tested the battery light indicators (the ones on the battery itself) and pressed the button, blank. No lights would come on, not even the red ones. Which is odd since I charged the battery to completion when I last used it, Sunday - it had come from the repair shop with about 38v or 39v. It had charged to 41.5v. Which was a number I'd never seen on this battery before, the most I saw was 41.4v back then. I plugged the charger in and it was behaving strangely. The red and green light would alternate every 4 seconds or so. The charger's fan also went on and off accordingly. I made a point to take a video of it for reference. I unplugged the charger, and the battery lights indicated full (all the way to the last green light). The charger was plugged in for about a minute and a half. The bike turned on, I then proceeded to take it for a test ride and after half a block the bike turned itself off. The display went blank. I pressed the button on the battery to see the indicator lights and no light would come on, again not even the red ones. I never had this problem before, the battery always held charge, even in the months the bike was faulty. The lights always worked and the voltage remained consistent. So this is a new issue. This thing cost me £299. I wonder if I should straight up ask for a refund, because I am very very frustrated.

I had not the slightest idea about that. What is odd is that I'm always paranoid about switching the battery off at all times - when I'm not using the bike. And prior to say, I had only removed the battery 3 times at the most, basically the few occasions when I went to my local bank. At work I don't need to since it's very safe and secluded. Meaning I don't remember fitting the battery back in with it switched on. But it must have been the case. And if agreed. There should be a label on every battery for sure!

Yet another 'hub' vs 'mid-drive' discussion, I know but I just came across this and I found it surprising that they opted for mid drives. I've never paid attention whether or not police also have e-bikes in the UK, or any other country so this was news to me as well. Most city rental e-bikes I am aware of have hub motors as we all know - so seeing a fleet of e-bikes with mid drives bewildered me a little bit.

I am back at last. I've been busy, and at one point even sick in bed for a week and a half these past few months. But all is well now. The bike is seemingly working again, after, I think of 2 months down time of me trying to troubleshoot what the issue was. I must state that both Yose Power and Greenlance were excellent in terms of customer service with me, lightning fast communication and attentiveness. After a lot of struggle I managed with wriggle the battery off the bike, it took many attempts along the course of a few weeks and a eureka moment of me flipping the thing upside down and trying to gently yet with force to remove it, and it worked. And as I did, I immediately saw that one of the connectors of the battery cradle/mounting plate was damaged. I then quickly got in contact with Greenlance and within an hour they got back to me to send the battery back so they could replace the 5 round gold pin connectors with the 4 straight pin style connectors - those look way more robust to me. But that was only last week, I've since then tested the bike 4 times with quick 10 minute rides the past few days and it seems everything is working like normal. Fingers crossed it stays that way, the bike had worked flawlessly prior to this issue. I will admit, if I were more experienced with e-bikes I would probably have found what the issue was much earlier. It took weeks for me to realise the battery was stuck to the cradle - and that that was at least a hint to what the problem could be. But you live and learn, that's life. P.S. I hope this post serves to help a future someone who ever has a similar issue.

I will try that, the battery is in place like normal; what I noticed is that when I tried to slide it off the cradle, I couldn't do it. But it's always been a hassle to remove it, but I rarely ever do it since I don't need to where I typically park it. It's a safe, indoor area.

The one thing about the battery is that I couldn't remove it from the cradle yesterday when I read saneagle's post about the battery cradle possibly being an issue. Even when I first installed the battery removing it was a struggle, but yesterday I just couldn't get it off the thing. It's very firm and secure though. It makes sense, but what puzzles me is that it will sporadically work like normal for a good 10 minutes even.

I did not change the LCD. Yose sent me the controller only. Just now I went down to the garage, pressed the button and the bike/system turned on as normal, I lifted it and held on to the throttle for a good 3 minutes. It got to 37.2 km/h, the battery read 41.2v, no error code on the LCD screen. I then stopped and turned the bike off. That's what puzzles me how it can sporadically work as normal, and then at times not even turn on, or turn itself off as I press the throttle or pedal when I'm test riding it. I'm thinking it's the battery cable that connects the julet connector on the controller to the 2 bullet red/black connectors of the battery. But I might be way off. I inspected the wires back when the issue started, I didn't see anything damaged or squished, but I will certainly look again. Is there a chance it could possibly be the LCD screen? I've really looked after the bike since I've fitted the kit. I ride 20 miles a day 5x a week to commute. More or less 35 minutes each way, mostly incline on the way home with 10% gradient max. My commute is mostly on cycle lanes, probably 70% of it. I reiterate I do not use the throttle, I only fitted it back in to test things. I much prefer pedalling. I rode on the rain no more than twice, the second time I had one of those battery covers on. I never dropped the bike or the battery. Before the issue started that Thursday just over 2 weeks ago the bike worked faultlessly, not a stutter before that.

I cannot recollect ever doing that. My battery stays on the bike as I use it mostly for commuting and I never remove it when I park it there. And I'm always paranoid and double check I flip my battery switch to 'off' whenever I'm not using the bike. -- I was so hesitant about fitting the new controller I only got to it this morning. Sadly the same symptoms persist with the new controller as well. Right off the bat I struggled to turn the system on (pressing and holding the on button on the display). After many attempts of the display going blank, it did come on. I lifted the bike, and pressed the throttle for a good two minutes. Battery was full as I'd left it. 43.3v. The display registered 37km per hour as usual (same no load top speed as when I first got the kit). I let go of the throttle for a bit, then pressed it again; and after about 10 seconds the bike went dead, and the display went blank as I was pressing the throttle. I waited about half an hour, went to the garage again, pressed the button on the display and the bike worked first time of trying. I decided to take it for a test ride. And after about 5 minutes of the bike working normally, it went dead again as I was pedalling. I am perplexed, and I will reiterate I never see any error code on the display or anything, the battery seems to be holding charge.

News just in! Yose sent me a new controller. Just now there was a delivery guy knocking on my door which I found odd since I hadn't ordered anything. They sent me the thing without even saying anything other than that they were going to have their engineers simulate the fault I'd described. I'll have lunch and fit the thing, fingers crossed it solves it.

The one on the LCD display, the button you press and hold to turn the bike on. Looking back, I meant button and not switch. - I still haven't heard from Yose since they said they were going to simulate the issues with their engineers.

Update: I charged the battery to its full capacity (green light on charger). After many attempts to switch the bike on, it read 41.4v - which is what it normally showed when the battery was fully charged previously. What caught my eye was, as I was repeatedly pressing and holding the button to switch the system on, it would turn itself off after a fraction of a second but this time, as it did that, the display faintly showed the battery was 'empty', it had like one bar or zero bars - I couldn't read the voltage. But mere seconds later I succeeded in switching it on and it read 41.4v as I said. 5 full bars. Intuition tells me it could be the battery cable that came with the kit, it's a 2 bullet points to 2-pin julet that connects to the controller (see attached image) But it could also be the controller? Also, would I still be able to perform the aforementioned tests if my controller has that julet/waterproof connector? (image also attached, obviously the battery cable is the one with the 2 protruding pins) Alas, I don't even have the tool(s) necessary for the job. I'm puzzled but, since a few days have passed I'm calmer. The kit and the battery are well under warranty since I've only had it since late January - hopefully I'll get it resolved. Fingers crossed.

Hello everyone, I took a bit of a hiatus because I've been really busy with other matters. I contacted Yose 2 days ago. And they have been replying to my queries. Last they said they will have their engineers simulate the symptoms I've described to find the fault. First of all I haven't done what Waspy, Saneagle and Nealh said yet because I've only just read the posts now. A few more things: The bike worked perfectly and faultlessly up until that Thursday. The 23v voltage it showed was only at that exact moment once I stopped and switched off the bike and switched it on again. Since then, every time I switched the system on the displayed showed the actual battery voltage. Either 36.5v or 39v after I charged it a bit. There was no error code displayed on the screen at any given time. I tested my brake sensors by pressing them levers and letting go off each individually when I switched on the bike - and only then I saw the 25 error code as expected. So they're working normally. Last Sunday, when I disconnected every cable and connected back again, I switched the bike on, lifted it and ran it on the throttle for about 5 minutes - it worked as normal. The battery voltage displayed the voltage expected after I charged it for an hour. Immediately after that I took it for a test ride and the bike worked as normal for about 10 minutes and then it switched itself off as I was pedalling, much like what happened on the way back of my commute that Thursday. I stopped, waited a bit, switched the system on again, proceeded to pedal and the bike switched itself off again after about a minute. Since then, the bike has been in my garage and I have struggled to even switch it on. Meaning, when I press and hold the button on the display, it lights up for a fraction of a second and shuts itself off again. Only once yesterday was I able to switch the bike on without that happening. PS. I will try fully charging my battery today. It usually goes up to 41.3v or 41.4v when fully charged.

Yes, the thing is I ordered my kit from one (of the two) Yose Power stores on Ebay. So I assume I'd have to contact them via Ebay. Also for a second I thought it could be the battery - which I purchased separately from Greenlance. Not knowing what the issue is, is the reason why I haven't contacted the former nor the latter as of now. I also tried to be prudent and attempted to resolve the issue on my own - by basically ensuring no cable, especially the motor cable, is disconnected. Yes the drop in voltage accounts for the remainder of my commute that I was able to use the bike for, on the way back it worked for, say, 80% of the way, the last 20% it kept shutting itself off in seconds; so I just legged it with the motor off. The battery held to its 36.6v voltage for days until I charged it a bit last night for an hour. And I made a point to check everything as I stopped Thursday when the issue started. Nothing was hot to the touch. The motor, controller and battery were either cold or lukewarm (the motor) at the most. 350w nominal, controller is 18a, battery is 36v 20ah with a 20a BMS. The controller is housed in one of those Ebay controller boxes. I carved out a wider hole in the bottom panel of the controller for better air flow and cable management when I put it together. I'm back on public transport this week while I work this out but I miss the bike already. I even sleep better with the exercise I get out of it. 35 minutes each way.

Good morning (just about) all. I unfortunately bear bad news. I will try to be succinct. Last Thursday, about half way through the first part of my commute the bike started losing power and stuttering, despite me pedalling it kept slowing down. That went on for about 3 minutes so I stopped. Upon stopping, I looked at the display I noticed the battery had one bar and flashing as though hit was empty - when only minutes ago I had 38.4v (I'd left home with 39.1v or so). I switched the system off, and when I turned it on seconds later the display indicated it had 23v; which was very odd. I checked my motor cable, etc to see if anything was partially disconnected. In the process I lost my one earphone I had on when I removed my full-face helmet. I'd only had it for a week after spending £50 on it. I searched for 20 minutes and no luck. On the way home the bike stuttered again, to the point it started switching itself off completely. I'd wait a bit, turn it on, and it would work for a few minutes then the display would go off again, at times it worked for mere seconds. So I finished my commute pedalling the bike with it off. Since then I have disconnected all cables and connected everything again 3 times. On Sunday I rode it for 10 minutes before it turned itself off again. And today I've spent most of my morning disconnecting and connecting cables again, and going out for a ride to test everything. Same results. The bike worked well initially but after 5 minutes it'd turn itself off. Now it won't even switch on, it shuts itself off after a fraction of a second. I'm perplexed as to what the issue could be. The battery seems to be holding charge, it held on to the 36.6v it had since Thursday. Last night I charged it for an hour and the same voltage remained. I don't know if it's any of the cables, I don't know if it's the actual display that's gone faulty, or if it's the battery that's somehow unable to feed through power. I'd appreciate any feedback from my fellow forum members; I'm out of my depth here. Thank you.

Thank you Wooshie. From my research back then, I only heard good things about both, provided you picked the correct motor for your needs. Duly noted. So it's 36v 260 rpm or 48v 328 rpm for 700c wheels. Would that be the same for 27.5 also? I reiterate this is just an abstract, non urgent plan, but who knows if I might wind up getting another bike for this hypothetical new kit also.

Sadly I have to agree with you. It's probably just the little boy in me wanting to see what a bike of this kind would be like but it would probably end up being a bad purchase in terms of fit and utility and possibly even maintenance. And I reiterate I don't even like these fat tyre e-bikes, but the Specialized Globe ST and LT (not sold in the UK, and too expensive anyway) and this Fiido T1 Pro have caught my eye. Having said that, I have no urgent need for another bike, I'm just pondering. The world of e-bikes is a lot of fun, it's a shame I didn't delve into it sooner. Interesting, I did not know that. Thank you. If I were to do it, in the future of course, I'd probably go for the 328rpm, native 48v one and not overvolt it. But that sounds lovely. 48v 328rpm, 48v bat, 17a controller. Talking of controllers, are you still running with your 14a one? And do people here rate AKM / Aikema motors above the Bafang ones? In terms of reliability, durability and maintenance?

Because by looking at pictures of said Fiido T1 Pro, it looks like it can be adjusted like most bikes. But upon watching reviews and seeing people in real life as I ride - especially men of taller stature - it doesn't seem to be the case because they all pedal with the same awkward style, with the knees flared out wide. So I conclude the seatpost mustn't go high enough to properly adjust for tall folk. But I'd have to ride one to determine it properly. And that's the catch with these Chinese bikes, there's no test drive as far as I know. And yes, I did. I got it even cheaper. £170 (with a discount code on top of that price) for the Path 3 with the hydraulic brakes and matt black finish. I'm over the moon with the bike. And I don't necessarily need a 500w motor, but I'm curious about 48v systems still. I guess I've been watching too many e-bike videos from our American brethren, and it's been influencing me. I find it interesting watching people commute, do deliveries or just leisurely ride on their bikes all across the globe.

Another update from me: Both my Yose power kit and my Greenlance battery have not missed a beat and have been working faultlessly. Fingers crossed they remain that way. I'm really impressed with them, and pleased with the investment I made. So if there's anyone still on their research phase like I was a few months ago; this thread can be of help I feel. I also really really like this 700c Polygon Path 3 bike I got on sale. The components feel excellent for the price - from someone who hadn't ridden a bicycle since my teens (I'm in my 30s). And I also vehemently vouch for these Schwalbe Marathon Plus tyres. They're amazing. Having said all that, I can't help but admit I have been eyeing up bikes or kits out there that could go a little quicker. Although I tend to dislike fat tyre ebikes, that Fiido T1 Pro (the latest model whose frame does not break in half like its predecessor reportedly did) looks interesting. It's got a 48v, 750w nominal motor, I think 20ah battery. 80kg cargo capacity is a nice bonus too. But I'm 6'2, and whenever I see guys riding these bikes of similar frame, pedalling always looks so painful - I see men pedalling on these things with their knees flared out wide - presumably because the seat can't be adjusted high enough for proper posture? Ready made bikes like that can be tempting, but I've heard it's difficult to disconnect the motor cable on that Fiido, changing that LCD screen looks tricky too should it fail. Now I'm back at looking at kits; if the law indeed winds up changing. I could see myself getting a 500w (nominal, although as I've seen here, these numbers mean very little) and a 48v battery. I reiterate, I really really like my bike and how it feels to pedal. It feels like a proper bike, I think I get 22mph on pedalling and either 19mph or 20mph on throttle (which I find boring, pedalling feels nicer). And I probably get 50-60 miles range on this 36v 20ah battery which is excellent. I get a really good sweat on it on my way back home - which is mostly incline. 35 minutes of consistent pedalling because I want to exercise. 2 birds, 1 stone type of deal. But in the future, I'm tempted to see what a 48v /500w feels like, especially if the regulations change. I'm thinking AKM128 or one of those bafang kits.

That's what I've been doing with mine, which is why I found it odd. I will re-read the Greenlance instruction sheet tomorrow to make sure I'm not mixing things up.

I need to watch the whole thing but it's late and I'm sleepy. So I'll leave that for tomorrow. A related question for a newbie like me: I'm pretty sure my Greenlance battery instructions' page says to charge the battery with it switched on (-). I think it's for extra security, since it says when the battery is 'on' it knows even more precisely not to overcharge it. (I need to give it another read, it's been a few weeks) Is that how it should be and how most people charge their batteries? Intuition makes me think to charge it with the switch flipped to off (o).