PointyUK

Sorry, I thought I covered most of it. It was a while ago now but from memory, everything was replaced except the motor and battery. I made up a new wiring harness from the motor to controller and from the battery to the controller. It was easy to work out the phases from the original controller. The extra wire in the motor connector seemed to be a temperature sensor and as the controller didn't support it I ignored it. If there is anything specific you would like to know, let me know and I will do my best to answer. Regards, Les

Thanks for all the replies, I am weighing up the all the options, including just upgrading the Apollo. lack of time is the biggest problem, too many projects and not enough hours in a day. The Apollo has a SHENGYI DGW07C motor which according to their site is rated for 24V~36V~48V, but are the coils wound for a specific voltage? My battery is 24V, if I upgrade it will I melt the motor?

How can anyone live with odd wheels? I really enjoyed doing the repair on my bike and fixing up the Giant, I learnt a lot about eBikes during the process too, but still consider myself a noobie. These days, it doesn't take a lot to blow my mind. I never though about the additional weight of the trailer and dog too, especially going up hill. He does already has his safety googles though...

Would you like to hear a story? When I decided to get myself a bike, I looked on eBay, I messaged the guy about that bike, with a view to looking at it, as I liked the look of it and it was local. (I wasn't even thinking eBike) He was away in France and said he would message me when he was back. In the meantime I found and purchased the Apollo. A few days later I received the following message... If you want the bike , you can pick it up FOC , or I will give it to a charity shop. If you pick it up , I would appreciate a donation of your choice to St Barnabas. regds JJS I said yes and went and picked it up, reminding him to remove the listing. I have since then, donated £100 to St Barnabas and messaged him multiple times about the listing, without any response. PS> That was well spotted and yes I used his picture because I was too lazy to get it out of the garage and take my own.

Thanks for the replies guys. No, not really I just don't want odd wheels. Weight is too heavy, fitness is crap, hill are too high, speed will be slow and distance is not far. Seriously, I have very little experience of eBikes, other than the Halfords Apollo Phaze I picked up for a bargain price for myself and the Giant I have just rebuilt for the missus. (I didn't realize that was soo much science to it) The Apollo is perfect for my needs and is only 24v, the LR bike is just a slight bit taller and suits my frame better I think. I am currently just over 90Kg, very unfit (Only gave up smoking this year, after 40+ years). I live on top of a hill, but as I said the Apollo is fine for this, I can ride up it using full assist without too much effort. I would like to get a trailer for my dog and take him out for rides/walks that I would normally drive to, speed is not an issue, range would probably only be a few miles each way. Cheers, Les

Is it possible to convert any standard bike to electric? I have this bike I would like to convert... It has 24 gears, disc brakes and 26" wheels. The thing is, I would like to keep the original wheels, so is there anywhere that offers the service of fitting motors to wheels? Any advice? Regards, Les

I finally got this bike finished. As I wanted to use the original nice chunky sheaf, it was a real pain getting the new wires through, but I eventually managed it. All cables fit inside the controller box... I also made a rubber seal to poke the wires through, which should limit the amount of water that can splash up into the controller box. View from underneath... All done... I am pretty pleased with how this turned out, in fact the bike rides better than my own! I just need to align the rear speed sensor, make sure everything is clean and lubed and all screws/bolts are tight.

Thanks for the reply, I haven't tested this yet, but why would they go to the expense of adding a separate speed sensor and magnet on the rear wheel if there was one built into the hub?

Unfortunately I need to make up new cables from both the motor and battery as I am not happy with the length of them after replacing the connectors. When checking the connectors at the motor end I noticed that the motor has 6 wires coming from the hub, the extra green wire is not included in the cable that ran back to the controller. There is also what looks like a thin black tube coming from the hub, what is this for? I am guessing the green wire is either a temperature sensor or speed sensor and as there is a separate speed sensor on the back wheel, probably the former. How can I test this? Will it simply output a voltage from 0 - 5v based on temperature?

I still haven't got round to finishing this but I have made some small progress. First off, as I am a bit cramped for space, I de-soldered all of the connections/wires I am not going to be using. Also as I am not going to be using the Torque sensor I wanted to remove it and sell it. At they are £150 new it has got to be worth a few quid to someone! The problem is that it holds the back wheel in place, so with my very limited skills and metal work tools I made a replacement bracket... I managed to strip the thread on the original hanger bolt so I had to wait a week for a new one to turn up. The speed sensor does appear to work between signal and ground as flashing a magnet in front of it changes the speed on the display. I just have to put it all back together now.

Signal wire is held high, so I will try between signal and ground.

Having decided to replace the controller, display and torque sensor, I finally have all the parts... BMS S06S Controller. KT LCD4 KT-V12L I hooked it all up, using the bench supply and it appears to be working, I just have one thing to sort out. The Giant speed sensor is just a reed switch/sensor (2 wire) can this be used with the controller? Is it just expecting a positive pulse, if so can I just connect the red/white wires? (Motor has no speed sensor wire)

I am sure it would, but I have to get this bike up and running as cheaply as I can for the missus. At some point in the future I want to do a conversion on my Land Rover MTB and of course as it is for me, there will be no expense spared.

So I came up with a novel way to test the battery... I then when for a 5 mile ride, including some steep hills at full power. The display was still showing full when I got back and the voltage was still 27v+. Due to the lack of Giant parts in the UK and the cost of a controller (189 euros + shipping ), I am leaning towards replacing things with a KT controller and display along with a PAS sensor for a fraction of the cost. Any other recommendations will also be considered.

So after making the following test cable... It didn't work, although it did appear the motor was trying to go backwards and drawing way to much power. After swapping the yellow and green wires round the motor worked as expected. Of course although the colors are the same in the extension cable, it doesn't mean they are in the same order. I need to double check when I replace the Apollo cable. I then set about testing the torque sensor, which was outputting about 1.4v on the brown wire and didn't appear to change when turning the peddles. However when holding the back wheel and trying to peddle the voltage went up to about 2.5v, so I assume this is working.

I would like to try and test the motor today and just want to make sure that I don't do anything stupid. My other eBike is an Apollo Phaze 24v. It has a Shengyi DWG07C-FA motor, I haven't opened the motor yet as I need to get or make a special tool, but I looked at this thread and this . It looks like phase A is green, B is blue and C is yellow. The Giant motor is A, (brown) B (white) & C (grey) looking at the controller legend. As I have to change the motor cable on the Apollo I bought a 9 pin extension lead, so my plane is to cut the female end of the extension lead and connect the wires to the Giant motor. I have read that you can destroy the controller if wired incorrectly so as an e precaution I will power from my bench supply with the current limiting turned down. Any thoughts?

I can answer my own question about the torque sensor voltage as I can trace it back to the 5v line. Unfortunately I think the controller is fried as there is 26v on the 5v line. Tomorrow I will try and test the torque sensor.

Anything with a soft on/off button must be powered all the time. If the MCU is in standby it will only draw a couple of ua anyway.

This is what I have come up with for the display schematic... If you spot anything you think is wrong, let me know.

No, not yet but I did finally get the whole PCB out of the case... There are some possible signs of water ingress. I am still puzzled about the display though. Why does the display go though it's start up routine when power is applied? Surely it should wait until it is turned on. Why does it not show the battery level? What is DIO? Digital out, digital I/O? Although it says the MCU pins are bi-directional I think they are either configured in software as input or output. I am nearly done with making a schematic for the display which might shed some light on things. Also, before I decide how to proceed any idea if I can test the torque sensor? As these are also expensive, I need to know if it works. Finally you said about replacing the battery/controller with 36v versions. Wouldn't that fry the motor if is designed for 26v?

Yes that was the first thing I checked, there is no connection between battery + and the orange/ display vcc. The transistor could be controlled by the MCU on the controller, maybe it does startup checks before switching it? It's hard to trace because I can't see the back. I guess I need to see if heating up the case will release the PCB and whatever gunk is behind it.

I have managed to clean up the worst of the silicone from the component side of the controller... The supply to the display is not a simple branch it looks like it is controlled by Q10, but where it comes from I have not worked out yet. (there appears to be a large unsoldered pin, just above the negative battery wire) It looks like the display power button simply sends the supply voltage to the 0/f pin of JP1 via R20.(Actually marked on/off on the controller PCB) The MCU of the display is a Holtek HT46F47E. As all the LEDs come on/go off when powered and the mode light is changing, I am assuming that it is functional.

The battery charged up to 28.7v but I haven't checked to see what the charger is outputting. As I don't even know if the motor is good yet, I will keep playing with what I have for now.

Obviously the goal here is to see if it is cost effective to repair this bike. As the battery seems ok, I guess the absolute worst case is a new motor, controller and display.

It's hard to tell what's going on because of the horrible silicone potting, which I am not convinced has done it's job. I am slowing picking away at it, trying to to destroy the PCB. Last night at 5pm I hooked up a set of LEDs to the battery, they are not drawing a massive current but they are still on this morning, so at least the battery is holding some charge. EDIT: There is 26.5v on the battery this morning. Does the BMS shut off the output if the voltage gets to low? Obviously I don't want to take the voltage too low and destroy the cells. I also re-soldered the display connection wires and hooked it up to the bench supply. All the LEDs light up and then just the mode light comes on. Pressing the mode button changes the mode LED as expected. On/off and Giant (Light) buttons seem to do nothing. No voltage is detected on the speed pin.