gordonmx

Thanks for this better-late-than-never reply. I wonder what it means that the C64.1.083 (Nov 19 2013) part is the same as mine, but the M19.1.345 is off by 1 figure from the M19.1.344 I have (and was told is the latest version available). Sorry to hear about your motor failure. My motor is hanging on after being replaced. I'm watching my battery's capacity being slowly worn down. At about a cost of about 800 euro, I'm not looking forward to replacing it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

How can the 45kph version be the same? My motor is 250W. I thought the 45kph had a 350W motor, or something similar. Also, wouldn't the extra speed kill your battery? Do the really use the same 17Ah battery? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi Deedee. Still waiting to get it done or have you forgotten my question? Would really appreciate you taking the time. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Any chance you got the updates done last week? If so, can you share the complete software version references? I'd like to be able to specify what I'm asking for. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I live in Luxembourg. I'm sure it won't help you to know my dealer's name, but FWIW, it's Cactus. The service is provided by their after-sales service. I look forward to learning what software 50cycles/Richmond installs on your motor & display. Is 50cycles saying they can do you a NuVinci Harmony upgrade? It's not hard, but not every dealer seems to have gotten themselves set up to do it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Glad you like my question. Thanks for answering with useful info. You have the same bike as me or maybe the next version. Got any further info on the version number of the new Kalkhoff motor/display software? My retailer is checking, but Derby/Kalkhoff is being very unhelpful, suggesting that someone had put an Impulse 1 motor on my Ergo when it is clearly marked as a version 2. Yeah would be great to get the 45kph Fast Pedelec version, but that would legally require me to wear a helmet and to stay out of any bike lanes. Anyway, I updated the NuVinci hub by encouraging the retailer to contact NuVinci support, then pointing them to the online resources. Took months, but they finally got a connected laptop, installed the software and connected using the appropriate USB cable. Took a few minutes. They sent me screen shots to prove they'd done it. Now they're updating their other clients. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I can see the software version on the LCD display by burrowing into the settings. Anyway, I'm asking what is the current version. My retailer said they updated the bike's software, but it seems to have installed the same software version.

Dear Kalkhoff Impulse pedelec users. Do any of you have a way of checking what version of Kalkhoff's Impulse e-bike software is currently installed on your bike? I recently went through a long process of getting my retailer to learn how update the software, only to find that it was exactly the same version I had had installed: Version C64.1.083 (Nov 19 2013), M19.1.344 (25.0km/h). Before I give my retailer too hard a time about this I thought I'd check and see whether I can find out what the current version actually is. I can't believe there hasn't been an update in three years. I have a Kalkhoff Impulse Ergo Harmony bike with the NuVinci hub. (I also had to teach the retailer how to update the hub, in fact, that it was possible to update it. That update clearly worked, though I have no way of seeing it directly. Ordinarily, I'd check this out with the manufacturer, but Derby Cycles, who makes the Kalkhoff, have been refusing to answer questions from anyone who isn't a dealer. Thanks! Mike

@[mention=9180]JohnCade[/mention] It's the latter. There is no nut head/adjustment bolt on the bolt/screw, so none that that is tightened against the dropout to spread the load. However, the bolt is nowhere near as wide as the dropout. I'm attaching some pictures of how the bolt is contacting the dropout - on each side. You can also see the indentation for the Allen key. This issue of the bolt thickness is part of why I wondered whether the larger chain tensioners might be a better solution, as their bolts might be more substantial. However, from a quick look, all the sizes seem to use a common bolt thickness. On the issue of future adjustments, I have no experience doing this. When do you tighten the tensioners and by how much? No, I don't suppose I'd want to get the bike shop to do it every time, but I'd like to know what I'm doing, given my history of problems with Kalkhoff e-bikes. On an earlier point, yes, I agree, the P&P was extortionate (9 euros 50 as I recall) if you were only ordering something small. But you could save by ordering more.

@[mention=9180]JohnCade[/mention] Mystery solved! I emailed the Holland Bike Shop and described your observation. They replied thusly: "Thank you for your e-mail. This is a new model, and this is normal. You can adjust it with a hexagonal wrench on the bolt head." Which is pretty much what my bike mechanic observed when he took the part from me. By the way, the other three versions I ordered did have the adjustment bolt, as you can see from the picture.

@[mention=9180]JohnCade[/mention] Okay. That's interesting. However, if you look at the picture from my earlier post on Dec. 4, when I'd just received the short Batavus chain tensioners, you can see that the bolt was shipped installed like that. My mechanic said I'd need some kind of Allen key to adjust the wheel (there is an indentation that could fit an Allen key). I didn't realise at that point because I hadn't seen the others with an adjustment bolt. But then if I go on the Holland Bike Shop site, you can see in the image there's supposed to be a adjustment bolt at the rear end of a chain tensioner. Strange. Is it even possible it was installed wrong by the manufacturer? Could the bolt even be installed backwards? Wouldn't the reversed adjustment bolt prevent proper installation? Oh well, I could always ask them to swap in one of the larger ones with an adjustment bolt head in the right place, next time I have time to spend time on this.

@[mention=9180]JohnCade[/mention] Success! I got the short chain tensioners installed. They fit and now my wheel seems to run true. All good so far. The other ones arrived a couple of days later and now I have quite a collection. Two of the types sold by the HollandBikeShop.com seem to be identical: Bicycle Chain Tensioner Batavus Stainless 104484 2 € 2,25 21.00% €4,50 Batavus Chain Tensioner 45Mm Bolt 30 mm 142471 2 € 1,95 21.00% €3,90 The Batavus Chain Tensioner 62 Mm Bolt 45 mm version is clearly overkill, and pricey at €19,80 for 2. I wonder whether the larger versions might provide more strength for holding the wheel in place. Some pictures of the installation:

@[mention=9180]JohnCade[/mention] I received the first set - the Batavus Chain Tensioner Short Stainless. I've got to tell you I can't see whether they might fit or not. I can say that the Nuvinci hub on my bike and the way the frame/dropouts are designed does not make it look easy to fit the tensioner in on the drive side. I wish someone who has fitted these things could write a bit about how they are fitted and show some pictures. Below I've posted some of mine. In picture 3 you can see me holding the chain tensioner near where I imagine it goes. The thing occupying the acrew directly behind the wheel bolt is the anchor for some cargo straps I have over my carrier rack. They used to fit differently on my previous Kalkhoff. Picture 4 gives you the lay of the land. Any comments? Thanks for the info on the new dropouts. I can't see whether mine are different, because the automatic shifting stuff covers part of the dropout. I think they are different from the 2012 Agattu, because the way the baggage carrier and any possible straps fit on is different.

@[mention=9180]JohnCade[/mention] Given the delivery delay from HollandBikeShop (especially since they require a signature and I'm redirecting the package to a postal drop-off place that probably won't sign for it), and the fact that you indicated doubt about whether they'll fit, I decided to order two pairs of all four of the Batavus chain tensioners available on that online shop's site. Batavus Chain Tensioner 62 Mm Bolt 45 Mm Batavus Chain Tensioner 45Mm Bolt 30Mm Batavus Chain Tensioner Short Stainless and my latest find: Bicycle Chain Tensioner Batavus Stainless One of them ought to fit! Then I'll have a whole bunch of useless chain tensioners. But I don't want to have to take my bike to the workshop and leave it more often than I have to. Sucks to have a new bike off the road for so long. I rang up the HollandBikeShop online store and complained about the lack of detail and fitting information. She conceded the point, but said the site originated as a parts site for bicycle mechanics, and has become more end-user focussed. She told me they're well into planning a new site that will feature a lot more information. And it will be more multilingual. However, she clearly ignored my not so subtle effort to get a discount. What "later version of that pdf" are you talking about? I got the latest manual off the Kalkhoff site. There don't seem to to be any individual manuals for each type of bike. Are you saying you don't believe the "more general" torque reading list? Even though it sounds like 30 N-m would be better than 45 N-m to avoid the bolts stripped (that happened to me a lot when I tried to tighten the bolts on without a torque wrench)? Where are we supposed to get credible torque specifications for Kalkhoff bikes? I keep on thinking about getting a torque wrench, but my first Kalkhoff was such a nightmare that it's scared me off from doing my own maintenance. Does anyone here like the Park Tool TW-6 or is that just overpriced branding? I don't have access to an Aldi or anything similar. I'll probably have to order online. I didn't keep a picture of the dropouts on my earlier Kalkhoff e-bike - an Agattu XXL C8. I wish I had done so, to document what can happen to the frame/dropouts from too much abuse. I can only confirm that the dropouts face the same direction, not whether the dropouts are any beefier. I'd be interested in your source on Kalkhoff having beefed up the dropouts in the 2015 models - that's apparently what I have. Where did you see that? if anyone's interested I could upload a picture of what the rear drop-outs look like. @[mention=6825]RobF[/mention] Thanks - so that's the same company behind the Rose Versand online bike shop? Too bad they don't do electric. Thanks for taking the time to explain. @[mention=982]tillson[/mention] Thanks for that Shimano link. I looked for the equivalent for my bike, and found it: http://www.fallbrooktech.com/sites/default/files/videos/N360_TECH_ENGLISH_web.pdf They suggest the rear wheel bolts be tightened to 30-40 N-m. Interesting as it's just below the 45 N-m that @[mention=9180]JohnCade[/mention] thinks stripped his bolts.

Dear all, Thanks for your replies. So that's my conclusion: the rear wheel wasn't properly installed and it moved/is moving. A visual inspection showed that the rear wheel appears to be off-centre with respect to the fender - on the right side there's a lot more tire. (That's the side opposite from the speed sensor and magnet). I can confirm that my 2015 model still has forward facing dropouts. Just like the 2012 version bike it replaces. @[mention=9180]JohnCade[/mention] I've taken your advice and ordered a pair of the short wheel tensioners from the Holland Bike Shop. I live in a hilly area and have already experienced a bike's alloy dropouts/frame wearing out because of constant wheel movement/reinstallation and adjustment. I honestly don't know why Kalkhoff doesn't offer its own brand. t hope you're right that the short ones will fit. I see there are three variations (Batavus Chain Tensioner 62 Mm Bolt 45 Mm; Batavus Chain Tensioner 45Mm Bolt 30Mm and the Batavus Chain Tensioner Short Stainless, which the site says are made of iron.) I ordered the third kind. My bike is staying off the road until these parts arrive and are installed (to avoid multiple long trips to the bike shop). A bike shop installed a pair on my then-soon-to-be defunct Kalkhoff Agattu, so I know something like this can be fitted. You noted how this problem (the wheel moving, the stripped bolts) seemed to start when Kalkhoff moved from a Panasonic motor to their Impulse unit. Well, imagine the effect of the even-more powerful Impulse 2.0 motor. On the subject of torque values and torque wrenches, Kalkhoff does make the torque values available in its 2012 manual, downloadable from their site at: http://manuals.derby-cycle.com/manuals/kalkhoff/en_kalkhoff_2012_20140818_09.pdf, on page 64. The rear axle nuts are to be tightened to 30 N-m and the front ones to 25. 30 equates to 22.126864479 foot-pounds, so even less tight than you now have it. However, I don't think the bike workshop at the store where I bought my bike even uses a torque wrench. One more thing: how on earth do you "recut the non-rotation washer"? @[mention=6825]RobF[/mention] What's a Rose frame? That rear dropout looks pretty cool. @[mention=982]tillson[/mention] Thanks for your analysis. I've relayed your recommendation on how to install the wheel without fighting the tension. We'll see if that gets it right. Once more, thanks to everyone who replied.

Hi all. I just picked up my new Kalkhoff Impulse Ergo XXL. I had some problems with it right away: the magnet mounted on a rear wheel spoke is hitting the speed sensor placed on the frame next to the rear wheel. I took the bike right back for an adjustment. It seemed to be fixed in a short test in the parking lot. But soon after resuming my trip home I heard that "thunk thunk thunk" from the rear wheel. The problem seems to become particularly obvious at higher speed and after I've been cycling for more than a few minutes. However, once I start hearing the noises, it doesn't go away until I stop. I have checked and when I look at the clearance between the sensor and the magnet, it seems there's a sufficient gap that there should be no contact. But there is, unless something else is causing the noise. (I didn't have time to go back for a second time today, as the mechanic had left.) This is not the first time I've had a Kalkhoff bike. The Impulse Ergo is a replacement for an earlier 2012 Kalkhoff Agattu XXL which was declared not usable by my retailer's mechanic. The fatal issue was that the area of the frame where the rear wheel is secured had worn down, making it impossible to lock the wheel in place. This was said to be caused by having taken the rear wheel off and putting it back on too many times. One of the earliest problems I had with that bike was this same issue of the spoke magnet hitting the speed sensor. From my experience, there are a couple of issues involved with this particular problem. There's the issue of the wheel being properly centred, then there's the question of whether the speed sensor is close enough to the spokes (or too close) - with some spacers that can be removed under the sensor. There is another problem if the magnet is too far from the sensor - the motor assistance level drops to a low level and the handlebar controls flash. I learned all this from my experience with the Agattu. To any of you who say this is an easy fix, I should say that I've concluded that I am not able to properly install the rear wheel on Kalkhoff bikes, as I can't seem to centre the wheel, ensure sufficient chain tension, keep clear of the sensor and tighten the wheel all at the same time. (Especially as the wheel bolts tend to get stripped if over-tightened. I don't have a torque wrench, nor do I know the correct tightening specifications for the bike's bolts.) I don't know why I keep on having this problem with Kalkhoff bikes. I also don't want to do anything that might damage the bike. Can anyone give me some tips on how this should be handled? Why would the spoke magnet only start hitting the sensor only at higher speeds and after a certain amount of time? I look forward to any input. Mike

@[uSER=4366]d8veh[/uSER] Thanks for your post. I remember you telling me about your experience with the Ergo XXL. What I meant by "confirming" is that another person would tell me they had the same experience. Your experience could have been down to the bike you tested. I don't really have much of an option if there are serious flaws with all of Kalkhoff's XXL bikes for heavier riders. Unfortunately, if I order the bike, my first test will be riding it home. To find a hill, I just turn left.

@[mention=2339]Artstu[/mention] Thanks for your input. Glad I'm not alone, but I wish I'd known that that Kalkhoff bikes were prone to this. How did you manage to acquire and fit an aftermarket chain tensioner? I asked my retailer and Kalkhoff repeatedly directly about that possibility, only to be told there was no chain tensioner to be fitted. It would have made such a difference: I constantly struggled to fit the wheel, but you were supposed to pull on the wheel just the right amount while tightening the wheel some unspecified amount. I just couldn't figure it out. Even if I had a torque wrench, I wouldn't have known what level of torque to apply. Doing it essentially one handed on two sides of the axle? I guess a good bike mechanic knows how, but I'm figuring that more than one of the bike mechanics (not always the dealer's mechanics) who serviced my bike way overtightened the wheel. Once that damage to the frame was done, there seemed to be nothing to be done about it but declare the bike a write-off. I couldn't believe how easy it seemed to be to destroy the bike's utility. One thing I haven't said so far is that I'm pretty pissed off with Kalkhoff. They offer a product that gets great reviews, but woe betide you if you have any problems. Unhelpful customer service (ask your dealer), incredibly long delays in sending replacement parts, seemingly no regard for the customer experience. They seem to assume i'm some recreational cyclist who does the odd weekend cycling run in fine weather who won't miss his bike for several months at a time. That's not me.

@[mention=4]flecc[/mention] From all my reading about the NuVinci, there are no discontinuous points, the gear range is infinite. So what would Kalkhoff work from, to detect a change? From what I understand, unlike a Shimano Nexus hub and a whole range of others, there are no step changes in the gears, so there are much fewer torque impacts on the hub. There's a lot online about how the NuVinci hub is a better match for a crank-drive electric bike. Having never used one, I can't evaluate this difficulty in effecting a change in ratio at high levels of torque. I haven't seen anyone confirming that this is an issue, either, with the particular version of the NuVinci Harmony Advanced that is sold with the Kalkhoff Ergo XXL. I won't have any opportunity to try before I buy. Both the Kalkhoff Ergo XXL and the Kalkhoff Agattu XXL are models that are much higher up the range than what the shop carries in-store. These models must be special-ordered from Kalkhoff. I suppose if I find that the gears don't change down when I'm climbing a hill, I'll have reason to return it and possibly opt for that refund.

Hi @[mention=9180]JohnCade[/mention], When I first bought a Shimano hub gear-equipped bike, I was told to stop pedalling when I change gears. That's what I've always done since. Even going up hill, I stopped pedalling and changed gears, waited a beat, then resumed pedalling. Even in situations where I heard the big chunk, that followed me stopping pedalling, changing the gear, waiting, then starting to pedal from a standing start. The only explanation for there being any point where both my pedalling and the motor were actively putting tension on the hub would be if the change was much slower than I anticipated. As I read your post, I think the only difference was that I didn't pedal softly after a change, figuring that the change would have already been effected. Is this idea that one should leave a Shimano Nexus hub a long, long time to change and pedal very softly after changing a general piece of advice? If so, I've never heard that. But it is true that most of my life I used derailleur gear systems.

@[mention=4]flecc[/mention] Isn't it possible that Kalkhoff decided not to include the gear change easement facility in their high-end model because the NuVinci Harmony system doesn't actually change gears in the same way as a Shimano Nexus hub? From what I've read, the Harmony system's internal computer is constantly adjusting the ratios to maintain your selected pedalling rate over varying terrain. Having the power brought off-line even for a short time each time that happens wouldn't make sense. My main issue is whether the hub is durable enough to avoid giving me all the drive-train issues I experienced with my first Agattu. You have agreed that the NuVinci system has much higher torque ratios than the Shimano Nexus system, which I take as a proxy for an overall durability rating. It still seems to me that, given my choice, and given the information I've been able to collect, the NuVinci-based system is the way to go. Also, sourcing and installing a more rugged version of the Nexus system (the Red Band version, as I understand it), is a whole other problem that would probably exceed the capabilities of the repair facility of the shop selling me the bike. While I think about, I'm wondering if the single issue of the regular Shimano Nexus hub's fragility and my weight/hard riding could explain all the drive train problems I experienced with my 2012 Kalkhoff Impulse Agattu C8 XXL, or whether the motor, wheel/chain adjustment and brake issues indicate that I had a bad bike or there were some maintenance issues I'm not aware of. The bike is supposed to be designed to carry a 170kg rider, hence the "XXL". @[uSER=330]Cyclezee[/uSER] If the Kalkoff Impulse Ergo XXL bike with the NuVinci Harmony system turns out not to be able to handle the demands I put on it (just commuting up and down some hills with not particularly huge grades, at decent speeds, carrying me, my shopping, whatever, then I guess it's back to square one and I'll need to do more research on what e-bike system is rugged enough apart from a hub motor/derailleur solution.

Thanks for all of your (on-topic) replies! @[mention=4]flecc[/mention] Thanks for your reply and recommendation. That confirms what I've read elsewhere: that the NuVinci has higher durability than the Shimano Nexus 8-speed - I've heard its design allows larger, more durable components. My main non-electric bike, a Workcycles Secret Service (used for the same trips) has a Shimano Nexus 8-speed and it's never been a problem - though I go up hills much more slowly, with less force on the pedals. That's partly why at first I had no idea there could be an issue with that hub on an e-bike. It must be the extra force of the motor pushing the hardware too hard, plus the extra force I can bring to bear by leveraging that assistance, and possibly the extra weight of transporting my one-year-old child in a child seat. It's strange that Kalkhoff markets their XXL bikes as being able to carry a 350lb rider without using a stronger hub solution. (Though I concede that using the non-XXL replacement Kalkhoff at my weight and using it as a child-carrier probably put the bike way beyond its designed stress capacity.) While Nuvinci might be more rugged for my purposes, has anyone had experience with these Red Band Nexus (SG-8R35) systems? From what I read, they're meant to be more ruggedly built. Are there any other more rugged hubs that my bike repair facility could have recommended as an upgrade? I should mention that at one point, I was offered a complete refund. I didn't take that because I really want an e-bike for commuting and general transport purposes (given all the hills), and I thought that it would get me back on the road faster if I got a replacement (this may not turn out to be the case) and because I suppose I'm still thinking that all of the very positive experiences everyone has reported with the Agattu must be possible for me. Perhaps I'm just outside the tolerances. @[uSER=4366]d8veh[/uSER] Just to clarify, the 2012 Kalkhoff Agattu C8 XXL was equipped with the Impulse 1.0 drive system. I never had much trouble with chain jumping, though gear changing and starting up after down-shifting resulted in a loud "click"/"thunk" sound. Both of the bikes I'm being offered (basically the entire XXL range offered by Kalkhoff), come with the Impulse 2.0 drive system that comes with that gear-change power interruption system (but not on the NuVinci-equipped automatic-shifting bikes). Also, the Nuvinci Harmony is supposed to be an automatic shifting system (unless you change it to manual mode) - did you test that or a version that requires you to change gears? I would be interested if I heard reports that the Harmony system can't handle hills, but it seems based on what I've read to be able to do so. I'm glad to hear I'm not alone in finding the Agattu rear-wheel fixation system a real hassle. @[uSER=9035]martin@onbike[/uSER] @[mention=4538]Kudoscycles[/mention] I really don't like derailleur systems (having used them extensively in an earlier period of my life): too dirty, basically, too much splatter, not really compatible with commuting to work, an obstacle to having a full chain guard and requiring constant maintenance since they're exposed to the elements. @[mention=9180]JohnCade[/mention] I can only wish I had access to a mechanic who could undertake such advanced work. Doing that myself is way beyond my skill-set. What would you say to the mechanic who pulled my bike out of service because the frame had worn down at where the wheels is attached (a long patch on the stay where it was worn down to bear aluminium)? Could you have proposed a resolution? I suppose I'd be willing to leave Kalkhoff behind, but I'm not sure which e-bike manufacturer can offer me quality, more durability (given my size, etc.) and a commuting-appropriate spec (non-derailleur, chain guard, mud guards, relatively upright riding position).

Hi all. In 2012, I bought a Kalkhoff Agattu C8 XXL. It turned out to be probably the worst bicycle-owning experience I've ever had (I have owned several bikes, have two other bikes now and have never had as many problems with a bike). With the Agattu XXL, I had constant drive train problems. The rear hub was replaced at least twice, the motor was replaced twice, I, on at least two occasions suffered complete failures (I couldn't move the bike by pedalling) while pedalling in traffic, the chain tension could not be maintained (it was nearly impossible for me to properly tension the chain, so I gave up changing my own tyres), the wheel drifted off from where it had been set, screwing up the rear speed sensor (too far and too close) I had cracked parts in the rear hub/axle area, the Magura brakes needed to be replaced. There were constant clicking and thunking noises that would never go away despite repairs. I took that bike to the repair shop of the store where I bought it so often that I came to be on a first-name basis with the shop's staff. The bike was very frequently out of service for months at a time awaiting parts from Kalkhoff. One problem would solved; another would crop up, often on the way home. Eventually, earlier this year, a couple of months before the end of the warranty, the head of the repair shop declared the bike non-reparable and the shop offered either to refund me or to replace the bike. Apparently, the rear wheel had been taken off the bike so often that the portion of the frame the wheel attaches to had worn, making it impossible to properly tighten. The trouble is I don't know why I had all these problems. Kalkhoff told my dealer that it didn't find any problems with the bike's construction. The shop loaned me a Kalkhoff Agattu 2012 (non-XXL) to use while I awaited my replacement bike. That worked fine for several months, until a couple of weeks ago, when it, too, started making regular loud noises as I pedalled. The repair shop looked at it and declared that bike non-fixable, too, as they couldn't figure out why the noise continued after they'd adjusted everything - it was either from the hub or the motor, I was told.. I should point out that this repair shop is fairly limited in their technical ability: when a hub fails, they replace the whole rear wheel. When anything goes wrong with the motor, they ship the bike to Kalkhoff in Germany, which can take many months to fix it. They don't seem to know how to build wheels. They didn't propose I upgrade to a more rugged version of the Shimano Nexus hub - the red band version. It has been suggested to me that my size could be the issue. I'm 6 foot 4 and weigh over 250 lbs. I tend to ride fairly fast. That's why I bought the XXL version, thinking that it could handle my weight and usage. (it can handle riders up to 350 lbs). I also use the bike fairly intensively: I ride the bike all year round, through winter except for when there's been s snowstorm. (Though it's stored indoors on both ends of my commute.) I've read that the Shimano Nexus 8 speed hub gear used on the Agattus is prone to getting damaged when hill-climbing, or putting a lot of force on the pedals. I wonder whether this is a factor. Where I live, there are quite a lot of hills and with the electric assist, I could pedal hard to maintain my speed uphill. Unless you're lucky enough to have your destination along one of the level roads, you're often going up and down inclines here. I'm wondering whether opting to replace my dysfunctional bike with the Impulse Ergo XXL, equipped with the NuVinci Harmony gear system, would give me a more reliable electric bike. Would the NuVinci hub make a difference in terms of durability and reliability, given my weight and the frequent hill-climbing? Can anyone think of why I had such a bad experience with a bike that seems to get raves everyone online? Given that I have to tell the dealer which bike I want - the new Agattu XXL Impulse 8R HS or the Impulse Ergo XXL - quite soon, I'd really appreciate any feedback.